Thread: Boat trailer steps?

I can use my son's 220 stick welder, just have to keep an eye out for the little girls when they come around.
For now any cutting would be with a sabre saw, sawsall, hacksaw, grinder and chisel.
On this 4" channel the top and bottom steps would be a straight cut. The center step would need a slot cut for the post to pass through. If I was still working I'd use a torch to cut it out.

Originally Posted by deltarat

I have a 110,220 and AC/DC stick.

Have you done any aluminum welding with the DC stick welder?

Plasma cutter maybe?

I have not tried aluminum. I want to get a spool gun for the 220 Miller mig but the gun and another bottle are pretty high. It is just cheaper to get a welding shop to do what little I have to do. Anything in steel I can pretty much handle.

Just curious are you using the steps when you unload and load the boat. I am doing more fishing on my own, I am unloading near a dock trying not to get in and out of boat because of knee issue.

Unfortunately there is not a dock right beside where I launch from so I will be using it for getting in and getting out. Right now I have to jump out the boat when I trailer it and that’s getting bad on the ole knees and back


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Very few of our ramps have docks. The ones we have on the big 4 are good during high water.
These steps will help getting in the boat when launching and getting out of the boat when on the trailer again.

All we had at work were AC welders. I talked with the person at Airgas about welding aluminum. Go negative for aluminum instead of positive for a better weld on an AC welder, not as good as a DC welder, but I got the job done. I could get a quarter inch puddle instead of 1/16 or 1/8 puddle before blowing a hole through. About a month after I finished all my aluminum welding the welders were replaced with AC/DC models.