Thread: Got distance?

10-12 foot rods huh, I have never even considered using such a long rod. That would be a site though using an ultra light rod 10-12 feet long fishing in the lakes around here.

That brings up a whole new issue, what type of rod? The only one I have ever fished that was that long was a noodle rod and I know it would never handle anything like the setup I see for Wagglers. The rod was designed for using 1/8 ounce max so the setups I have seen would be way too much.

I am really beginning to think i just need to get a variety pack of Wagglers and Avons and try them to see what I can fish right and make work. There has to be some way to rig them that will allow me to see a tip up bite and a take down bite and still use a shorter rod. Not that I am against a longer rod but I want to learn one thing at a time. Learning to throw a float with weight in that type of configuration will be hard enough compared to how I fish now.

And what is the difference when fishing choppy water or is it just a matter of taking of a BBBB shot to let the bobber top stick out just a tiny bit more so it can be seen easier?

Originally Posted by fish_4_all

That brings up a whole new issue, what type of rod? The only one I have ever fished that was that long was a noodle rod and I know it would never handle anything like the setup I see for Wagglers. The rod was designed for using 1/8 ounce max so the setups I have seen would be way too much.

Forget the noodle rods. They're way too soft for casting wagglers.

The best rods are match rods. They have the perfect action: excellent backbone with a light tip. Unfortunately, they are not readily available. Wacker Baits sells one that looks decent. Cabelas has one also, but they changed the blank (for the worse, IMO.)

My second choice would be a "light steelhead" rod from 8.5-10' long. Cabelas sells several different models that are reasonably-priced.

My third choice would be a BnM or WM crappie pole from 9-10' long. They are not ideal (too soft), but they will work in a pinch.

Originally Posted by fish_4_all

I am really beginning to think i just need to get a variety pack of Wagglers and Avons and try them to see what I can fish right and make work.

Sounds like a plan, but remember: Avons are strictly for river fishing. Don't use them on a lake or pond.

Originally Posted by fish_4_all

Learning to throw a float with weight in that type of configuration will be hard enough compared to how I fish now.

It's really not hard. You just have to lob it. Cast "up" as much as "out' and feather the line with your finger as the float approaches the water.

Originally Posted by fish_4_all

And what is the difference when fishing choppy water or is it just a matter of taking of a BBBB shot to let the bobber top stick out just a tiny bit more so it can be seen easier?

Yep, that's all there is to it.

Okay, so regardless of what I try first, what is my final fine tune to set up the weights on the leader?

Float with bb's above and below if fishing a fixed float. Then the leader to the hook. Then the hard part:
Assume I am using a 6 foot leader. 12-14 inches from the hook I put a bb shot. Then about 24 inches up from there is the majority of the weight needed to get the float at the right depth. Then above that I put another bb shot about half way between the float and the larger weight mass.

Does that sound about right? If it is close then I can always fine tune it so I can actually cast it and not get a massive snarl every time.

Originally Posted by fish_4_all

Float with bb's above and below if fishing a fixed float. Then the leader to the hook. Then the hard part:
Assume I am using a 6 foot leader. 12-14 inches from the hook I put a bb shot. Then about 24 inches up from there is the majority of the weight needed to get the float at the right depth. Then above that I put another bb shot about half way between the float and the larger weight mass.

Did you mean to say fixed float? That's not the way to rig a fixed float. For a fixed float, put 75-90% of the weight around the base of the float to lock it in place and then one or two SMALL droppers below.

For the slider rig, I'd use a shotting pattern very similar to the one shown in the diagram. The main bulk should be 2-3' above the hook. If using a longer rod, I'd probably set it at 4' above the hook. You just have to adjust it based on what's comfortable.

Also, if you're going to buy floats, go ahead and get some good split shot, too. Bass Pro and Wacker both sell the Dinsmore shot.

Well it sounds like a fixed float is gonna be my best starting point. I know how to do a sliding float but have to start somewhere. Will try both eventually. A sliding float will be harder to cast with a short rod for sure.

Any specific float you can recommend that the total weight will be right around 1/4 ounce total with with the float to set the float right?

I am also curious, with that much weight right at the float, do you lose some sensitivity or do the lower shot still allow you to see tip up bites as well as take downs?

Sorry if my terminology is terrible but I have never seen this done before. Even when we fished hard for panfish we never used a float like that. A simple tiny cork or tiny bobber was all we used if we ever used a float.

Originally Posted by fish_4_all

Any specific float you can recommend that the total weight will be right around 1/4 ounce total with with the float to set the float right?

First of all, take a look at this thread:

http://www.crappie.com/crappie/panfi...tml#post645060

I think it's best to start out with a fixed waggler. One AAA shot is equal to about 1/32 oz. Also,

1 SSG = 2 AAA = 4 BB

The Thill floats are usually rated by how many BB shot it takes to cock them. Look for a 9BB to 14BB Thill waggler.

Drennans are pretty much the same but often use AAA as a guide, so look for Drennan wagglers in the 2 AAA to 4 AAA range.

Originally Posted by fish_4_all

I am also curious, with that much weight right at the float, do you lose some sensitivity or do the lower shot still allow you to see tip up bites as well as take downs?

No, this shotting is ideal. You will see the lightest of bites.

Originally Posted by fish_4_all

Sorry if my terminology is terrible but I have never seen this done before. Even when we fished hard for panfish we never used a float like that. A simple tiny cork or tiny bobber was all we used if we ever used a float.

No problem. I love to talk float fishing!

This is not exactly what you guys are talking about, but here goes... I fish for hybrid striped bass here in central MS in a tail race. We must make very long cast... Sometimes in excess of 100 yrds. (And yes, I have been to a football field to check the distances.) We use a float called a Launcher M3M. It is a 1 1/4 - 1 3/8 oz, can't remember exactly. We use long rods and braided line. They make several smaller versions that could be cast with a crappie rod or a stealhead rod. The launcher is made by the same people that make Flexcoat. It is the rod eye epoxy. Roger (flexcoat's owner) is very knowledgeable about long distance casting a cork. We throw the m3m with a leader and fly or small jig about 85 yrds. He has setups that cast much futher. Hope this helps.

Thanks Disco, that helps a ton. I will definately give this a try this spring ans summer on lakes I know that have crappie and bluegill. But will definately use it for trout because when the water goes clear they seem to get light on the bite and seeing even the lightest bite could make a huge difference.

I do have another question though and this one could be the real fish catcher. The gravel pits are deep and long. Will the wagglers work by rigging them up as a slip bobber and letting a bottom shot fall all the way to the bottom? I guess I can always set them up as a slip bobber running a bobber stop above with a good 4 foot leader below the first shot. The hardest part is finding the structure and finding the depth of the fish. I know they are there, they can't go anywhere. But finding them is often really hard.

Any suggestions on how to rig up to find the depth they are at and be able to cover a lot of water quickly? Only a coule weeks out of the year do they come in shallow into the side structure. And then they just laught at you while you beat your head in trying to get them to bite.

8fisherman, I wonder if that would work here for casting long distance ocean fishing? We don't always need to but it owuld be nice to be bale to hit the weed beds that are a good 50-100 yards out and not get a load of weeds. A float would work well if we can see it.