Rees

**NeonMoon** · 12-25-2012, 06:57 PM

How serious are ya about the little pontoon project? Gonna have to find the large diameter PVC, but if you can trailer, it would help. Also probably need a couple pieces of Aluminum formed as well, so a Sheet Metal shop would probably come into play. I'd also been looking into Hot Air Plastic Welding as a way to cap the PVC float ends, but if you know anyone in a larger Body Shop, they may have the equipment.

I figured $1200 (give or take, depending on size, frills, etc.) or so would get it to float with a finished deck (carpet), seat, but no TM, FF, or Battery(s).

Replied in the other post, but if you want, I can come back south in 2 weeks, after my time here is up. You might have to take me fishin' though

Out of curiosity, why would you want something like this as opposed to just getting a Jon Boat?

**Rees Guide** · 12-25-2012, 07:13 PM

Think it would haul easier than a Jon boat in some of the places I fish in the spring, not sure if I want it narrow enuff to put in the back of a truck or put it on a trailer

Sent from my VS840 4G using Tapatalk 2

**Rees Guide** · 12-25-2012, 07:14 PM

Fresh mite could hook us up on pjpe

Sent from my VS840 4G using Tapatalk 2

**NeonMoon** · 12-25-2012, 08:03 PM

Here's what you need:

16 x .187 Wall Gray PVC Duct Pipe Type 1 Grade 1 : PEP Plastic, Specializing in Plastic Engineered Products

Would have to set down with you and get a total weight figure to determine pipe diameter. I figured 16" in 2-10' Lengths would float 800 pounds leaving them half out of the water, but you may want to get by with less, and use 12-14" (12" being just shy of 500 pounds), but those weights are total flotation=boat, gear, and gewber.

Don't know, a 10' Jon Jon is only 100 pounds:

TRACKER Boats : Riveted Jon & Utility Boats : 2013 Topper 1036 Riveted Jon Description

And I bet you could find a beat-up used one for a coupe Bills. The 2 PVC floats will weigh that much alone. Only reason I'm taking this route is because I've got no other options, and is why mine will be a knock-down design so I can handle and stow it.

**Rees Guide** · 12-25-2012, 08:59 PM

A 10 foot Jon aint gonna be nea as stable as the toon is, got a 14 but decked out on the front it is way heavier than that, we will sit down and go over it afte I close the BARN.

**NeonMoon** · 12-25-2012, 09:14 PM

Sounds good

**ennivator** · 12-25-2012, 10:27 PM

hey ya'll i got a piece of 12'' pvc 20' long yall welcome to have it if it would work.

**Rees Guide** · 12-25-2012, 10:33 PM

That would be great ennivator, will check the load rating and see if it would work.

**slimeyslab** · 12-25-2012, 11:05 PM

This thread has quite the potential.

**NeonMoon** · 12-26-2012, 08:00 AM

Hi Ennivator, hope you had a Merry Christmas!

Rees, 12" x 20' would float just under 1000 pounds, but that needs halved to keep 1/2 the floats above water.

#500- less weight of PVC= around #400
Less Rees= Say #200
Less TM and Battteries(24v?)= #175

Leaves #25 pounds for deck, seat, gear, cooler, bait, plus started-out "not quite" at the flotation capacity (1000 pounds, I think it was more like #980), So 12" wouldn't work. You could always make the floats longer (and still have to buy a section of pipe), but going to be harder to haul, or could add a smaller float next to the 12"ers, more hassle and cost (to attach them to the 12" floats as opposed to a larger/single one).

14" would get you up to #1260 or #630 total/actual weight, roughly an additional #150+ over the 12". You could still spread the floats for a wider stance, and put a single sheet of deck (4'x8') on it to save some weight. I'd rather have too much float than not enough, plus it would give you a shallower draft.

12" would be better suited for someone with a small TM, and single battery with a 4'X6' deck.

Thread: Rees

Thread Tools

Display

Rees

Posting Permissions