I don't use anything but the jig ... 1/32 or 1/16oz usually. Generally I'm fishing with a 6-8ft rod and 4lb test. I've used this equipment and technique in depths of 6ft to 25ft. I use hi-vis lines (yellow-chartreuse-green) whether casting or Vertical Casting ... and watch the line for hits. I'm using weedless jigheads/plastics, most of the time, and especially when fishing trees/brush ... but I also use the open hook style Crappie jigs, too, when Vertical Casting. Actually, I started out Vertical Casting with the chenille body/marabou tail type jigs, years ago. I still use them, especially around bridge pilons and dock posts ... I just use whatever type of jig I have tied on, at the time (except RoadrunnersOriginally Posted by USAFretired
) and use the Vertical Cast technique to "finish up" fishing a spot that I've been pounding with casts (from a distance).
I don't mean to sound like I'm saying that adding a sinker up the line from the jig, wouldn't work or would keep the technique from working. It may not, I've just never tried it that way ... or needed the extra weight. The trick, in using this technique (especially in tree tops/blowdowns) is to drop the jig STRAIGHT DOWN and retrieve it "very slowly" Straight back up. Watch the line - watch the rod tip - and "feel" for the "tap" ... all at the same time. In the article, I describe the usual ways that a hit can be detected ... watching the line, rod, and feeling for the tap, insures that you'll be aware of a hit - no matter which way it happens![]()
.... cp![]()


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) and use the Vertical Cast technique to "finish up" fishing a spot that I've been pounding with casts (from a distance).

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