Thread: Inside the LMS520c

I can't believe they don't coast those boards just before thet are installed. The company I use to work for developed a telephone switch for use aboard Navy ships. One of the tests they had to pass was to be completely submerged in water aand keep on working. They passed the tests.

I have a ? on corrosion on the DF plugs. I remove my units after fishing and noticed on my old units boat plug one of the female pins was corroded, looks like, for a better word DC corrosion, blue/green color, looks like the same as on battery posts. I would like to prevent that with my new unit, any ideas?

Originally Posted by SteveJ

I have a ? on corrosion on the DF plugs. I remove my units after fishing and noticed on my old units boat plug one of the female pins was corroded, looks like, for a better word DC corrosion, blue/green color, looks like the same as on battery posts. I would like to prevent that with my new unit, any ideas?

This works good.

Clean with a tooth brush and tooth paste. Then rinse with water. Let dry. Take a toothpick and apply a very small amount of dielectric grease inside the matching female connector.

If possible, clean gold pins with rubber eraser (such as on lead pencils).

Don't put too much dielectric on the connector as it is conductive.

Some manuf don't recommend dielectric on connectors but the are the ones who are selling us the cheap connectors.

Originally Posted by Barnacle Bill

I can't believe they don't coast those boards just before thet are installed. The company I use to work for developed a telephone switch for use aboard Navy ships. One of the tests they had to pass was to be completely submerged in water aand keep on working. They passed the tests.

I agree. I use no open frame devices when I build marine circuits. I spray the crap out of them with several coats of clear conformal coat. This is why my model boats can run under water. Lots of practice at waterproofing stuff. Learned the hard way.:o

The battery test circuit in the Minn Kota V2 is coated.

Originally Posted by Barnacle Bill

This works good.

Where you purchase this and do they charge a "hazard shipment" fee?

Originally Posted by Cane Pole

Clean with a tooth brush and tooth paste. Then rinse with water. Let dry. Take a toothpick and apply a very small amount of dielectric grease inside the matching female connector.

If possible, clean gold pins with rubber eraser (such as on lead pencils).

Don't put too much dielectric on the connector as it is conductive.

Some manuf don't recommend dielectric on connectors but the are the ones who are selling us the cheap connectors.

I know about the eraser trick but kind of hard getting into those small female pins, I use it on male pins, was hoping for some kind of spray on prevention maybe.

Originally Posted by SteveJ

I know about the eraser trick but kind of hard getting into those small female pins, I use it on male pins, was hoping for some kind of spray on prevention maybe.

I am not familiar with Barnacles dielectric spray. After you get it clean and apply some dielectric, the corrosion will subside. Apply dielectric on occasion if you connect and disconnect frequently. I never have corrosion problems using these simple preventative maintenance applications. I clean all my connections yearly and apply dielectric grease on them, even the fuse blades and acg's glass fuses..Takes a while, but solves a lot of headaches.

Post time outs suck sometimes. What I mean by too much grease is don't allow the grease to bridge between pins (male or female). Just a tiny scosch.