Help with spider rig.

[Cray]

Good afternoon guys,

I am new to spider rigging and have actually not even attempted to try it yet,but I have been gathering all the essential tools. I have been lurking on this site and trying to come to some sort of compromise as to how's the best way to rig. I have watched several videos and listened to several discussions here. I guess one question is if I wanted to fish a minnow on top and a jig on bottom, Capps/Coleman rig minus the minnow hook on bottom, would you avoid the egg sinker altogether with say a 1/8 oz or 1/4 oz jig head? I watched a video on YouTube with Tim Blackley and Carl Kalonka on Lake Washington in Mississippi and it appears they had some single jigs rigged with a variety of lures fishing in a few feet of water. Have any of you been successful rigging with a single jig and if so what size weights do you use?

Washington is for the most part pretty shallow and fish will suspend in the 3-4 ft range a lot thus the single hook set up. I fish single hook on bottom a lot in less tha 7-8 ft of water. I usually run. 1/2 oz weight and 90% of the time I have a 1/8 poney head with jig and tipped with minnow. Water deeper than 7 2 hook rig with 1/2 to 3/4 weight, jig on bottom bare hook or teaser on top with minnow.

[Eagle 1]

are there any photos of these rig on the site?

this is how we fished 40 yrs. ago .

[canebreaker]

The Capps n Coleman rig is the one most everyone copies if they tie their own. The length and size line between the hooks/jigs and weight will vary.
Check state and lake rules for the amount of hooks/jigs that can be used per rod (rod limit) or the total a person can use.
One rig I tie has a loop on both ends. One loop will catch the snap swivel on the main line on the rod. The other loop will go through a sinker at the bottom. Up to 6 hooks/jigs are spaced as close as 1 ft apart. 6 baits and loops are 8 ft long. I use a string stopper on the main line and set it at the water surface. If it's 5 ft from the swivel the first bait will be about 6 ft deep and the bottom bait will be at 12. The speed and sinker weight will change the depth of each bait. Most of the time I use a 2 oz bank sinker while the motor is at speed 1. With a little wind or speed 2 I'll go to a 3 or 4 oz sinker. If the fish want a fast bait I'll go to a higher speed and up to an 8 oz sinker.

[ET Fish]

I just had an idea the other day, and wondering if it has been tried. First off, I only use a single hook/jig to avoid the inevitable tangle. I thought about putting the egg sinker on the main line with a split shot and bead above and below to hold it in place, with a barrel swivel on the end. Then tie several leaders with the jig and a snap on the end. My thought was that a line break would save the weight in some cases, plus make it easier/quicker to stow and go to another spot. Would it work any better? Would also make it easier to store on a pool noodle!

[CrappiePappy]

I just had an idea the other day, and wondering if it has been tried. First off, I only use a single hook/jig to avoid the inevitable tangle. I thought about putting the egg sinker on the main line with a split shot and bead above and below to hold it in place, with a barrel swivel on the end. Then tie several leaders with the jig and a snap on the end. My thought was that a line break would save the weight in some cases, plus make it easier/quicker to stow and go to another spot. Would it work any better? Would also make it easier to store on a pool noodle!

ETF ... that's basically what I do on my long rod outfits. But, all I do is run the main line through the egg sinker, then a bead, then tie a duo-lock snap on the tag end of my main line. My pool noodle "holders" have jigheads on mono leaders, with a loop knot on the opposite end ... so I can just clip it in the duo-lock snap & I'm good to go. (note: I always use a bead with a hole big enough to slip over the knot easily, as it's only function is to keep the sinker from rubbing against the knot & possibly weakening it)

Then, when it comes time to break the rods down & put them in their rod socks for transport ... I just clip the duo-lock snap to the reel or foot of one of the guides, after uncoupling all three sections, and reel the line snug & slip them into the "socks". No hooks to hang up in the "socks" !!

... cp

[ET Fish]

ETF ... that's basically what I do on my long rod outfits. But, all I do is run the main line through the egg sinker, then a bead, then tie a duo-lock snap on the tag end of my main line. My pool noodle "holders" have jigheads on mono leaders, with a loop knot on the opposite end ... so I can just clip it in the duo-lock snap & I'm good to go. (note: I always use a bead with a hole big enough to slip over the knot easily, as it's only function is to keep the sinker from rubbing against the knot & possibly weakening it)

Then, when it comes time to break the rods down & put them in their rod socks for transport ... I just clip the duo-lock snap to the reel or foot of one of the guides, after uncoupling all three sections, and reel the line snug & slip them into the "socks". No hooks to hang up in the "socks" !!

... cp

Great advice! Thank you! Now, I ask forgiveness for hijacking this thread!!

[jscheller]

I didn't want to start a new post since my question is similar to this one so here goes. I am new to both this website and spider rigging. I've always just done the basic cast/jig for my crappie. My boat is pretty well set up with all the gear I need. My question is about actually rigging up the poles for the easiest non tangle system. I recently saw the Mr. Crappie Troll tech rigs on TV and they seemed pretty easy to use. I will attach the link for the rigs from bass pro so you can see them. Would buying some of these be a good start to get me trolling? Any advice is much appreciated.

[CrappiePappy]

I didn't want to start a new post since my question is similar to this one so here goes. I am new to both this website and spider rigging. I've always just done the basic cast/jig for my crappie. My boat is pretty well set up with all the gear I need. My question is about actually rigging up the poles for the easiest non tangle system. I recently saw the Mr. Crappie Troll tech rigs on TV and they seemed pretty easy to use. I will attach the link for the rigs from bass pro so you can see them. Would buying some of these be a good start to get me trolling? Any advice is much appreciated.

My personal opinion ... I wouldn't start with any double bait rigs. There's just too much hardware on the "pre-rigged" setups, IMHO.

Whether you're going to be using jigs or hook/sinker rig for your Spider Rigging .... the simplest setup will be less cumbersome. I'm fairly new to the spider rigging/ jig pushing styles of fishing, myself ... and believe me when I say you REALLY don't want a bunch of double rigs hanging out there if/when you run into a brush pile you didn't know was there

I wouldn't start with anything lighter than 3/8oz for your trolling weight. You probably already have a selection of jigs, hooks, swivels or clips, plastic beads, & line of a smaller pound test than the main lines on your spider rigging outfits ... so a trolling weight would be all you need. Your choice of "styles" for those trolling weights, whether they be egg sinkers, worm slip sinkers, or either style of the torpedo shaped in-line trolling weights (slip sinker style or with a metal tie eye loop on each end).

And if you don't already have a supply of trolling weights ... I'd compare prices between store brand bags of them and Crawdad's Fishing Tackle ( Fishing Weights ) and there may even be some site members that pour lead sinkers.

And if you rig your trolling weight on your main line, and use a lighter pound test leader line ... you won't be losing very many trolling weights from getting snagged & having to break off. All you will usually lose is your jig or hook. That's why I keep a selection of pre-rigged jigheads on leaders, wrapped around a section of pool noodle ... so I can quickly take the busted leader off & slip on another one, and be back fishing with that rod in less than a minute.

... cp

[Erin Brewer]

I didn't want to start a new post since my question is similar to this one so here goes. I am new to both this website and spider rigging. I've always just done the basic cast/jig for my crappie. My boat is pretty well set up with all the gear I need. My question is about actually rigging up the poles for the easiest non tangle system. I recently saw the Mr. Crappie Troll tech rigs on TV and they seemed pretty easy to use. I will attach the link for the rigs from bass pro so you can see them. Would buying some of these be a good start to get me trolling? Any advice is much appreciated.

There are tons of pre rigged rigs out there, grizzly jig, caps and colman, mr. crappie, arkie. They all work you just have to try them to see whay you like. I prefer to make my own but like i said its all what you prefer.

[ET Fish]

My personal opinion ... I wouldn't start with any double bait rigs. There's just too much hardware on the "pre-rigged" setups, IMHO.

Whether you're going to be using jigs or hook/sinker rig for your Spider Rigging .... the simplest setup will be less cumbersome. I'm fairly new to the spider rigging/ jig pushing styles of fishing, myself ... and believe me when I say you REALLY don't want a bunch of double rigs hanging out there if/when you run into a brush pile you didn't know was there

I wouldn't start with anything lighter than 3/8oz for your trolling weight. You probably already have a selection of jigs, hooks, swivels or clips, plastic beads, & line of a smaller pound test than the main lines on your spider rigging outfits ... so a trolling weight would be all you need. Your choice of "styles" for those trolling weights, whether they be egg sinkers, worm slip sinkers, or either style of the torpedo shaped in-line trolling weights (slip sinker style or with a metal tie eye loop on each end).

And if you don't already have a supply of trolling weights ... I'd compare prices between store brand bags of them and Crawdad's Fishing Tackle ( Fishing Weights ) and there may even be some site members that pour lead sinkers.

And if you rig your trolling weight on your main line, and use a lighter pound test leader line ... you won't be losing very many trolling weights from getting snagged & having to break off. All you will usually lose is your jig or hook. That's why I keep a selection of pre-rigged jigheads on leaders, wrapped around a section of pool noodle ... so I can quickly take the busted leader off & slip on another one, and be back fishing with that rod in less than a minute.

... cp

That's great advice right there! Use the K.I.S.S. method!!