Reply With QuoteI use a trolling sinker with snap on each end so I can change weights. Don`t like the egg sinker with 5 pases because it chaffs the small floro I use.
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I believe its Grizzy jig company that sells the caps and coleman already made up
CG1 "Dances with fish"
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I use a trolling sinker with snap on each end so I can change weights. Don`t like the egg sinker with 5 pases because it chaffs the small floro I use.
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Yes, it can be a strain on the line to be wrapped around the barrel sinker like that. And the sinker CAN still come off if/when you break off the bottom bait ... it's done that on me, before.Originally Posted by captankangaroo
I don't use double rigs, myself ... too cumbersome, and too likely to wrap/tangle when going slow or (especially) in the net.
... cp
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10 4 what crappiePappy said RR
Slabmaster
(borrowed from a 2012 article by "Special K" )
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Now, the original Capps/Coleman double rig was more like this :
The principle is the same, but the barrel sinker just has the line looped through it enough times to hold it on there ... whereas the "improved" version adds a swivel on the line to hold the barrel sinker in place.
... cp
That improved C&C is the one I've been using with Cray's idea of using the tag end on the top hook and the snaps added. It's been working really well so far. Thanks for all the advise guys. If the weather breaks and this snow melts, maybe I can get a few rigs in the WATER!!!
Tony the Tiger LIKED above post
Keeper
Good afternoon guys,
I am new to spider rigging and have actually not even attempted to try it yet,but I have been gathering all the essential tools. I have been lurking on this site and trying to come to some sort of compromise as to how's the best way to rig. I have watched several videos and listened to several discussions here. I guess one question is if I wanted to fish a minnow on top and a jig on bottom, Capps/Coleman rig minus the minnow hook on bottom, would you avoid the egg sinker altogether with say a 1/8 oz or 1/4 oz jig head? I watched a video on YouTube with Tim Blackley and Carl Kalonka on Lake Washington in Mississippi and it appears they had some single jigs rigged with a variety of lures fishing in a few feet of water. Have any of you been successful rigging with a single jig and if so what size weights do you use?
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I think you'd be better served to keep the center weight, regardless whether you have a jig/jig - jig/hook - hook/hook setup on your "rigs". That weight "can" help you dislodge a snagged jig or hook. It also helps keep the lines +/- vertical at Spider Rigging speeds.
I, personally, don't use the "two bait" rigs ... and simply run a single jig under a 1/2oz or 3/4oz egg weight, on a 12-18" leader of 6lb test mono. Main lines on my long poles are heavy braid. The braid is there simply because it was on there when I bought the reels (used). The egg sinkers are on the main (braid) line, and held there by the duo-lock snap tied on the end of the braid. Then a jig (or hook) on a leader can easily be snapped into the duo-lock, since there's a loop knot on the opposite end of the leader from the jig. Break-offs or changing jigs are quickly resolved.
I'm pretty new at this, myself ... so I decided to keep it simple, for now. And I don't really "spider rig" per se ... as I only have 3 long rods (14'). I mostly do what most people refer to as "pushing" jigs ... since the rods are out the front & have added weight on the line, plus I'm moving at anywhere from 0.5mph - 0.8mph as a rule ...so my lines are generally angled back at about 45 degrees. Most people consider "spider rigging" as using more rods, and moving much slower ... with their main lines nearly vertical from the rod tip to the water.
I am enjoying using the long rods & "pushing" jigs, and have been fairly successful doing it. I still "prefer" to cast a jig, as I've been doing that for over 40yrs ... and the long pole fishing is just an option, right now. If/when I decide to make the long pole methods my primary way to fish ... I'm going to have to pony up some serious $$$, since I would likely purchase a variable speed 24V trolling motor - extra battery - lake map chip for my depth finder - two more rod holders - and several more 14' rod/reel setups.I'm not quite ready for that big of a commitment, though. I'm doing OK with the setups I currently have & use.
... cp
Crappie.com Legend
Using long poles has a reason, getting the baits "away" from boat, so to not spook the fish. The extra weight is to keep the lines vertical, straight down. When trolling with no extra weight, the jigs wind up under the boat. Long lining lets the jigs run way behind he boat, same reasoning.
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Slabbo I would also advise to go slow in regard of the number of poles. IT takes some time to get used to controlling 3-4 poles per side and if you figure wind,stumps and the occasional catfish you can get in a mess in a hurry. I tried 3 poles , no chains and a lot of wind on reelfoot the first time and just about gave it up. Then I let some common sense in, hard for me to come by, and went to 2 poles and slowed way down. Now I feel confident in using 4 poles to a side. I also use chains or drift socks. Makes all the difference in the world. Good luck and hang in there. Remember it's only money and I haven't seen a hearse with luggage racks yet.
Keeper
Boa3, sounds like Great advice for the boat control and equipment issues, I've talked to several folks that gave me some of the same advice. Thanks!
