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Reply With QuoteGreat work so far! Like JD I’m taking mental notes.
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Premium work as always John. Taking notes for my boat...Always great info in your threads. Thank you.
Proud to have served with and supported the Units I was in: 1st IDF, 9th INF, 558th USAAG (Greece), 7th Transportation Brigade, 6th MEDSOM (Korea), III Corp, 8th IDF, 3rd Armor Div.
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Great work so far! Like JD I’m taking mental notes.
“If your too busy to fish, you’re too busy!” Buddy Ebsen
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We Put in 9 Hours Today
I have posted in other threads I have a bunch of 100+ year old Mahogany flooring. It does not rot at all. I use the same for tomato stakes year after year. Anyway I like to Epoxy blocks of the old flooring in to screw devices to.
I prepare the bilge surface by degreasing with a wax & silicone remover before grinding a tooth for the Epoxy to adhere to. Then mix the West System Epoxy resin & hardener before adding 404 High Density Filler to the point it will make soft peaks.
Once the Epoxy is mixed I spread it firmly into the wood's pores and into the ground, prepared bilge surface before gluing the components being installed down. I used Lead Ingots to weight the Bilge Pump down for better adhesion.
While the owner removed all the old wiring I fabricated duplicates of the Bow Switch Panel and Dash Panel out of 1/8in 5052 Marine Aluminum sheet.
I like to fit each instrument to their respective holes by hand with Brutus. We are deleting the Speedo and need Switch space on the Dash Panel itself so a second connecting hole was cut and it's location traced onto the back of the panel before prepping to paint with a 2K Urethane.
Here I'm using a Step Drill Bit to remove the burrs on the panel. To get a exact mounting hole location I use Layout Punches to punch the precise mount hole location. Both panels were painted today as well as a totally new wiring harness from 14ga Anchor Marine DC tinned stranded wire.
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Recessed TM Control Pan Delete
The newer Ulterra Foot Control is very difficult to use within the TM Control Pan so I deleted it. I used the old pan and Layout Punches to mark all the mounting holes. Also the edges were deburred and sanded smooth. The welded pipe you see is the custom Dual Electronics mount I made for this boat a few years ago. It's Stout!
Here I'm Freehanding the bevel into the SeaDek covering for the new panel.
A Leather Punch was used to punch holes into the SeaDek to recess the screw heads.
Nice and Tidy delete.
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Wiring and Finishing for now Here
I made a all new wiring harness for the vessel. First pulling everything in and securing the wire bundles well for days the wind will not stop blowing. Roughing in first is how I like to do it.
After spotting the batteries new trolling motor breaker and battery switch was mounted. The Fuel tank was installed and hoses reconnected. The fill hose for the livewell and bilge discharge were connected, wires secured, and a final check of the boat's wiring was tested.
These is still work to be done. Some of the switches bought were wrong, the electronics supply lines were run but not connected, the GLS10 box in the Livescope system was not mounted but all wires were pulled. After over a week of work my Bud pulled his boat home to finish up what was left. I had high hopes of picking it up off the trailer to recarpet the bunks but time didn't allow for that. Hopefully we can get that done soon.
