Thread: Updating and Upgrading My Skeeter F-80 Strada

Bon Temps sent me a boat he was looking at that some of the models have a rod storage locker in this area. A "Slab" Sized Idea is Forming! I should say "Saws-all Slab".

Originally Posted by Rojo

I pulled one of the deck drain grates and looked inside to find the Bow Livewell Drain Hose laying in the bottom of the Hull.



I can get one arm in the existing hole and after surveying the Livewell Access Hatch opening in the deck I do not think I want to try tom hold water in the bow Livewell. I think it would rot a very solid deck over time. I will use the Bow Livewell for easy tackle storage. What a surprise, the bilge pump would never keep up with a 1-1/8ID hose wide open like this.

I agree that access to the fittings on the front livewell sucks on these boats. If I have an issue with the front livewell where I need to cut access panels or lift the cap, I might as well plug it up front and the transom and switch to using only the rear livewell. When I checked the deck on mine when I replaced the lower deck carpet on mine 3 years ago, it was still pretty solid, despite some water spilling and rinsing/washing after fishing, since I also run fans to dry out the deck and carpet after use.

So after finding the hose laying in the bottom of the boat I disconnected it from the Transom fitting and discovered the hose clamps were not even tight. Silicone was on the Hose Barbs so I think these hoses had been leaking in the past. I assume the Bow Livewell Drain hose shrunk and just pulled off the barb. I replaced the Drain Hose to the Aft Livewell. Used 2 clamps on each end of the hose too.



Look at the hole, no wonder the bilge pump couldn't keep up.



I mixed up a very stiff thickened epoxy and using a epoxy syringe I back filled the fitting from the inside pumping the epoxy against the bondo spreader taped over the opening on the outside. Once the fitting was filled I cut a .750 hardwood dowel and buttered it with the remaining epoxy then inserted it into the fitting for added insurance. The double clamps will ensure no water leaks.

I forgot to post the bleeding of the steering system. Nothing special but I took a picture of the three way hose I use to bleed the system of air. One end is in a container with steering fluid inside so air can not be sucked into the system by accident.

Originally Posted by Rojo

Bon Temps sent me a boat he was looking at that some of the models have a rod storage locker in this area. A "Slab" Sized Idea is Forming! I should say "Saws-all Slab".

I checked if there was room under the bow livewell for rod tips and Skeeter left no room. The livewell liner is right on top of the hull. Even if I cut the floor out to recess the rod storage in the floor I could only fit 5ft rods in it. I have a small rod locker that holds 6ft rods now. No Saws-all surgery for this boat.

Originally Posted by Rojo

I checked if there was room under the bow livewell for rod tips and Skeeter left no room. The livewell liner is right on top of the hull. Even if I cut the floor out to recess the rod storage in the floor I could only fit 5ft rods in it. I have a small rod locker that holds 6ft rods now. No Saws-all surgery for this boat.

Dang, I was counting on a Saws-all-Slab job...well maybe next time.....lol

Livewell hoses sure do cause lots of problems, especially the ones you can't readily see for maintenance. Less is more IMHO.

Originally Posted by Slab

Dang, I was counting on a Saws-all-Slab job...well maybe next time.....lol

Livewell hoses sure do cause lots of problems, especially the ones you can't readily see for maintenance. Less is more IMHO.

When my Saws-all comes out I generally use a straight edge with it. That said I will be cutting in a floor rod storage in my 171SC Champion. It has a huge void under the deck. I think I could make it hold 8Ft rods easy.

When I'm wetting a boat for the first time, even one I built from scratch I never leave the dock before I at least look in the bilge, Livewell connections, and around the Rub Rail using a Mechanic's mirror. I didn't even get the chance to see the bilge as it was already flooded. I will be asking by Bud who I got the boat from did he take the connection off. I don't think he did, just shrinkage from the hose's age along with deterioration of the Hose sidewall, it just popped off on its own. Wakeup call for others on this site that have older boats as it can just as easily happen to them. I see a older boat in a chop bouncing the hoses off.

Finally getting time to post terminating the trailer lights using the new Heat Shrink / Solder / Sealing Butt Splices.



This is a first time for me using these terminals. I noticed the wiring in the light fixture is pure copper and the solder ran right into it beautifully but the cheap Optronics wiring harness that came with the lights must be impure or copper coated wire strands. The terminals made a good connection but not as good as with pure copper. They also have a sealing ring on each side besides the glue throughout.



You simply slide the terminals up one side of the wires before stripping the insulation. Then you twist the wires together as tight as possible before sliding the terminal back over the splice centering the solder over the bare wires. Once in place heat shrink the terminal with a heat gun. The low temp solder will flux and flow over bare copper and seal out water from each opening at the same time.



I added LED Side Marker Lights.



I do not like to fix the ground for the lights behind the fixture and hope the ground connection remains intact for the life of the fixture. To be sure I never have issue with the fixture grounds I drill and tap the trailer frame and using Kopper-Shield to prevent the connection from ever corroding. 316 Stainless screws are used to attach the wire to the trailer frame. I fixed up the wires at the tongue also but don't have a picture, I will add one and edit this post to show it.