I always install trolling motor supply leads on the opposite side of my boats or boat builds. The newer pulse width modulated digital trolling motors create a high level of interference RF that can induce a counter EMF if close to transducer wiring or electronics power supply wiring. Since this is a 1986 boat it has some access issues up in the bow that I have to address mainly opening the size of the access opening up. I can't get my forearm thru what's there to properly bolt a modern trolling motor on. Thru bolting the trolling motor plug is needed to, the holes are too big for screws.
First was to work from the trolling motor plug opening feeding the metal fish tape to the stern of the boat doen the Port side.
I didn't have enough #8 Red wire to make the run so I'm using a very HD Red Shrink Tubing to color code each end of one of the black wires to designate it permanently as the positive conductor.
The coils were so tight in the wire I had to wrap the end around this cleat and stretch & pull removing some of the memory in the wire before pulling. Feeding the wires thru the hull slowly all went well you can see the wires sticking out of the mounting location for the trolling motor receptacle.
I use tape to mark what not to cut when opening up a hole like this because a certain amount of level, flat surface needs to remain for the new panel cover to mount properly. What is inside the tape line will be removed then I sand these cuts well so I don't get scratched up later.
To secure and protect the new wires I put the entire run in Convoluted Tubing. It is a PITA to install after the wires are run but now I can secure the wiring well with eyelet tiewraps. I like to screw the eyelets down up against the inside of the rod box and along the wire routing in the aft compartment.


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