Thread: Question about home repairs

Go right over the drywall with it Rebel fan. If there is no drywall behind the marlite just shim out the studs to same thickness as the drywall on the top so it will all be nice and even and flush.

Ok thanks ill prob have a few more questions before its finished lol

NP at all . Just pm me if you need to. I dont look during the day cause I am working but will check in the evenings when I get home.

go tear it out to the studs, just make sure you leave the hardibacker board 1/2" short of the top of where you want tile to stop.... in other words figure out where the top edge of bullnose or trim tile will stop heighth wise and have sheetrock above it .... paint the waterproofing membrane all the way to the ceiling and the ceiling too if you don't have a fartfan in there to pull moisture out. this stuff will paint over well. another trick is go to hobby lobby and buy some medium density backing material which is used for placing in corners and to bridge the seams in the hardibacker board- as it comes in 3x5 sheets... paint it on with waterproofing (aquaban) what its called and you wont ever have leaks !! the seam stuff at h-depot or lowes is very expensive ..... as with GDG pm me for details also

Hey Joe, one of the s water proofers I used came with the fiber tape for the seams. Cant remember the name but will do some checking tomorrow

laticrete brand is best blue/green,,,,lowes...........red from home depot almost as good !! neither I have bought came with the tape. that junk is hiiiiiiiiiiiiihhhhhggh fixing to do another tub surround and you can buy the stuff at any fabric store by the yard and rip it down to whatever size you like !! if you talk real nice and ask about their garden or if they make quilt's and such and so-forth them blue hairs will rip it down for ya on the cutting table at no-charge

The stuff I bought that came with the tape was black. The last I used was a little less expensive but went on red and dryed out kinda pank, lol. It did not come with the tape.