Thread: Push/Pull method

Excellent response Skeet,

Have never tried the 2 oz - thats really setting a specific depth
Do you use 2 oz up and/or both ends or just up front and normal wgt of jig-crank on rear ?
I usually don't get into cranks until August - when they seem to be starting to put on the "feed bag"

I use a 3 way swivel with one leg to main line, 2nd leg has a duo lock for the weight of the day and the 3rd leg gets pre made leaders with duo locks on each end for the bait of choice. The snap for the weight allows the lead to be removed for transport. I use strictly braid for the main line, and it's hi vis. Any light color will do for what I do. I take the snap on the end of the main line and starting at 10' i use a sharpie and make inch long marks every 2 feet for 10 marks or so to tell me how deep to return to easier than most other methods. I only use weight over 1/2oz up front and found 3 oz weights ungainly for the way I fish. Lots of folks like 3's, to each his own. for the longline I use the weight of the jig. I have tried adding weight to the rear lines but mostly caught timber and such, and never really concentrated on how to add weight ot the rear lines to shorten the turn radius. It would be worth the effort just haven't gotten there yet. Like most of us, any idea is only gonna bounce around in the head for so long before giving in and spending the time to answer the inherent questions. I'll probably post about it one day soon. Hope this answered your Q Harold, plus I usually ramble.

Pretty much got it Skeet

Just as I was beginning to think the absolute best way is to set up all rods out the back. I bought some 2oz weights last year but have not used them yet. Gonna try it this summer probably up here at Clark's Hill. Probably run 8.5 and 12 footers out the front and 14, 16 footers out back to start. We'll see what happens. Thanks Skeet!

Couple Short questions Skeet - on your 3 way - are you using any length leader regarding the wgt or
wgt direct hook to 3-way.

One other question for all: Anyone ever employ the bottom bounce method with a weighted
coat hanger size wire about 1 long, attached to 3 way- main line - 1 segment, wire to second
and approx 2 ft leader - jig to third This puts you on bottom with jig running about foot -
being thin would go through grass - mudd etc with very little bottom flaring.
This principal worked great on rocky bottoms up North.
Another method that has worked well down here - bell wgt on bottom main line, jig with
1.5 ft leader about 1.5 ft above weight, 2nd jig about 2 ft above first jig. pushing at about .8 mph

Robert- kinda lost me when your said going to run 8.5 & 12's out front and long rods out back. What is thinking on this method ?? i would think running long rods out front to stay off sound of
trolling mtr - short ones out back for better control and spacing

Just trial and error Harold. I have some stiffer 8.5 trolling rods to use with heavier weight up front. Run em deep at an angle. I can shift this to the back or have the same setup in the back already. See which works best. Crank up speed. The long rods at the back are 45 and 90 degrees not straight out back of boat.

Harold, these are trolling weights with a split ring and duo lock, no leader direct to the three way. I use baitcaster reels so there isn't any line twist when the drag goes to work. When I trolled a small spoon I used a ball bearing swivel to deal with line twist. I also never found any greater return on leaders over 3 feet. Super clear water it may be an issue but not so far for me.

Here is a depth chart for pushing.....the faster you go the heavier your weight needs to be....you want to keep your line at a 45 degree angle. I use three oz. Weights and run 1.8 mph.

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