Push/Pull method

I have done both and done well also, but not here in FL yet. This time last year I push/pulled mostly to learn the pattern and present different baits. Once the rods/weight is established, then it doesn't matter what jig/crank/spoon/ whatever is attached. I used 2 oz trolling weights, 3 way swivels, and lots of duo lock snaps and a ball bearing swivel sometimes. I also didn't buy the real long rods and had to run things a bit different to get separation and keep caught fish from tangling with other lines. I use 7' and 11' rods and found along the way that my BGJP's weren't up to the task. The short rods pointed 45* and longer ones were almost 90*. Not the traditional rig. I used smaller baits on the front than I would pull from the rear. As has been already stated, there were days when front out performed the back of the boat and others that all the rods were busy. It isn't for everyone but I've had fun doing it. Sometimes the front is all I set out for the added turning ability. Splitting the baits between jigs and cranks gave good results too. As already said, tuning for the particular lake is key, and having fun doing it is just a plus.

Excellent response Skeet,

Have never tried the 2 oz - thats really setting a specific depth
Do you use 2 oz up and/or both ends or just up front and normal wgt of jig-crank on rear ?
I usually don't get into cranks until August - when they seem to be starting to put on the "feed bag"

I use a 3 way swivel with one leg to main line, 2nd leg has a duo lock for the weight of the day and the 3rd leg gets pre made leaders with duo locks on each end for the bait of choice. The snap for the weight allows the lead to be removed for transport. I use strictly braid for the main line, and it's hi vis. Any light color will do for what I do. I take the snap on the end of the main line and starting at 10' i use a sharpie and make inch long marks every 2 feet for 10 marks or so to tell me how deep to return to easier than most other methods. I only use weight over 1/2oz up front and found 3 oz weights ungainly for the way I fish. Lots of folks like 3's, to each his own. for the longline I use the weight of the jig. I have tried adding weight to the rear lines but mostly caught timber and such, and never really concentrated on how to add weight ot the rear lines to shorten the turn radius. It would be worth the effort just haven't gotten there yet. Like most of us, any idea is only gonna bounce around in the head for so long before giving in and spending the time to answer the inherent questions. I'll probably post about it one day soon. Hope this answered your Q Harold, plus I usually ramble.

Pretty much got it Skeet

Just as I was beginning to think the absolute best way is to set up all rods out the back. I bought some 2oz weights last year but have not used them yet. Gonna try it this summer probably up here at Clark's Hill. Probably run 8.5 and 12 footers out the front and 14, 16 footers out back to start. We'll see what happens. Thanks Skeet!

Couple Short questions Skeet - on your 3 way - are you using any length leader regarding the wgt or
wgt direct hook to 3-way.

One other question for all: Anyone ever employ the bottom bounce method with a weighted
coat hanger size wire about 1 long, attached to 3 way- main line - 1 segment, wire to second
and approx 2 ft leader - jig to third This puts you on bottom with jig running about foot -
being thin would go through grass - mudd etc with very little bottom flaring.
This principal worked great on rocky bottoms up North.
Another method that has worked well down here - bell wgt on bottom main line, jig with
1.5 ft leader about 1.5 ft above weight, 2nd jig about 2 ft above first jig. pushing at about .8 mph

Robert- kinda lost me when your said going to run 8.5 & 12's out front and long rods out back. What is thinking on this method ?? i would think running long rods out front to stay off sound of
trolling mtr - short ones out back for better control and spacing

Just trial and error Harold. I have some stiffer 8.5 trolling rods to use with heavier weight up front. Run em deep at an angle. I can shift this to the back or have the same setup in the back already. See which works best. Crank up speed. The long rods at the back are 45 and 90 degrees not straight out back of boat.

Harold, these are trolling weights with a split ring and duo lock, no leader direct to the three way. I use baitcaster reels so there isn't any line twist when the drag goes to work. When I trolled a small spoon I used a ball bearing swivel to deal with line twist. I also never found any greater return on leaders over 3 feet. Super clear water it may be an issue but not so far for me.

Here is a depth chart for pushing.....the faster you go the heavier your weight needs to be....you want to keep your line at a 45 degree angle. I use three oz. Weights and run 1.8 mph. Attachment 241255

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I use this method 100% of the time and have great success with it. All I use are 16' poles with 3/4oz weights on them plus what ever bait I have. The only negative I found with this method is if the water gets choppy, the rod tips seems to bounce more. I run from .8 to 1.2 mph. Something else I do is put a cork on the end of the rod for detecting bites works pretty good.
Attachment 241289