Thread: HDS-5 Problem?

did u go back and re set your setting? shallow water mode, then change your ping speed 18-19, color 72-74, auto sensitivity, noise and surface clutter both on low

Yes I did Jason.

I did the same thing and ended up with problem's.One month later and still working with Lowrance to try to get the problem resolved.They have problem's with the new upgrade.Good Luck!

Originally Posted by striperking

I did the same thing and ended up with problem's.One month later and still working with Lowrance to try to get the problem resolved.They have problem's with the new upgrade.Good Luck!

Ohhhh, that's just great
I did find today that my unit was not set for the proper transducer. I changed the transducer setting and will have to retry on the next trip

I would like to see some screen shots from your unit. just post them on here where i can take look at them. There's not a problem with the last software upgrade, I've been running and haven't had any problems with sonar... I know of some people having sonar interference from the TM, but that TM causing it.

*1.) If the leading edge of the prop is damaged from hitting rocks-stumps-logs or anything else it will need to be replaced.
*2.) Depending on how bad the damage to the prop is the armature can also be bent. Normally you can look at the very end of the armature where the prop is attached and rotate the prop at 10-20% power and see if the armature is bent. If so it will have to be replaced.
*3) On new trolling motors the armature can be manufactured out of round and the brushes will skip a spot and then arc real heavy when they make contact again. This will cause extreme noise in a trolling motor. Again the armature will have to be replaced for this issue.
*4.) Take the bow panel out of the boat and separate the transducer cable to one side of the bow bilge area and the 24/36volt power wires to the opposite side. Zip tie these so they will not move in rough water conditions.
*5.) There are several sources that the consumer can purchase a round rubber vibration damper for trolling motors. Most trolling motors will need 4-5 of these dampers to make any difference. This is not a fix; it’s a patch.
*6.) Minn-Kota should have an internal ground 18 gauge wire running from the negative side of the brush plate, in the actual motor, up through the shaft to the negative side of the directional indicator light in the head. In the head this wire has a 3amp fuse that will also need to be checked to insure it has not blown.
NOTE: DO NOT RUN A COMMON GROUND FROM THE NEGATIVE SIDE OF THE ENGINE BATTERY TO THE NEGATIVE OUTPUT SIDE OF THE TROLLING MOTOR 24/36VOLT SYSTEM. This will cause major electrolysis corrosion.
*7.) Tour addition Motor Guide trolling motors will need a special SS grounding strap installed in their trolling motor and again it will be attached on the negative side of the brush plate and will make contact firmly against the inside of the motor housing. This repair should only be performed by an authorized Motor Guide repair center.
NOTE: DO NOT RUN A COMMON GROUND FROM THE NEGATIVE SIDE OF THE ENGINE BATTERY TO THE NEGATIVE OUTPUT SIDE OF THE TROLLING MOTOR 24/36VOLT SYSTEM. This will cause major electrolysis corrosion.

I will post some pics after this weekend. My transducer is at the stern for my helm unit. Would the transducer setting not matching what I have cause my problems?

Originally Posted by Jason Gilstrap LOWRANCE

I would like to see some screen shots from your unit. just post them on here where i can take look at them. There's not a problem with the last software upgrade, I've been running and haven't had any problems with sonar... I know of some people having sonar interference from the TM, but that TM causing it. *1.) If the leading edge of the prop is damaged from hitting rocks-stumps-logs or anything else it will need to be replaced.*2.) Depending on how bad the damage to the prop is the armature can also be bent. Normally you can look at the very end of the armature where the prop is attached and rotate the prop at 10-20% power and see if the armature is bent. If so it will have to be replaced.*3) On new trolling motors the armature can be manufactured out of round and the brushes will skip a spot and then arc real heavy when they make contact again. This will cause extreme noise in a trolling motor. Again the armature will have to be replaced for this issue.*4.) Take the bow panel out of the boat and separate the transducer cable to one side of the bow bilge area and the 24/36volt power wires to the opposite side. Zip tie these so they will not move in rough water conditions.*5.) There are several sources that the consumer can purchase a round rubber vibration damper for trolling motors. Most trolling motors will need 4-5 of these dampers to make any difference. This is not a fix; it’s a patch.*6.) Minn-Kota should have an internal ground 18 gauge wire running from the negative side of the brush plate, in the actual motor, up through the shaft to the negative side of the directional indicator light in the head. In the head this wire has a 3amp fuse that will also need to be checked to insure it has not blown.NOTE: DO NOT RUN A COMMON GROUND FROM THE NEGATIVE SIDE OF THE ENGINE BATTERY TO THE NEGATIVE OUTPUT SIDE OF THE TROLLING MOTOR 24/36VOLT SYSTEM. This will cause major electrolysis corrosion.*7.) Tour addition Motor Guide trolling motors will need a special SS grounding strap installed in their trolling motor and again it will be attached on the negative side of the brush plate and will make contact firmly against the inside of the motor housing. This repair should only be performed by an authorized Motor Guide repair center.NOTE: DO NOT RUN A COMMON GROUND FROM THE NEGATIVE SIDE OF THE ENGINE BATTERY TO THE NEGATIVE OUTPUT SIDE OF THE TROLLING MOTOR 24/36VOLT SYSTEM. This will cause major electrolysis corrosion.

now we no its all the trolling motor manufactures fault.

Humminbird: America