Thread: 2006 Mercedes C230 SPORT Restoration

At first I was concerned I had a Torque Converter Shudder but decided to get under the car and check the Driveshaft. It is a 2 piece unit using a Hanger Bearing in the center splined in the joint. I could move the Driveshaft all around in the Hanger Bearing and the Spline protector was in pieces I figure this is a good place to think the problem is.



I decided to build some more serious blocks for working under my little car. I have 4 Floor Jacks so getting it in the air is not the problem but I don't care for Jack Stands when there is perfectly good tires under the car. These blocks are screwed together with 3-1/2in Deck Screws.



First things first was to mark everything with a Paint Pen so alignment is not in question when putting it back together. This prevents me from reassembling the Driveshaft out of balance.



Next was freeing the rusted Exhaust bolts, Exhaust Hangers, and blocking the front up while holding the back up with a Floor Jack. Then once everything was unbolted I dropped the section of the Exhaust down sliding it out from under the car.



When I was unbolting the Driveshaft there was no room to get wrenches to the top bolts so I had to use 2 Jack Stands to suspend the Rear Wheels so I could put the car in Neutral to rotate the Driveshaft to get access the the remaining bolts. Out on the floor came the Driveshaft.



I replaced the Hanger Bearing Assembly with only a free rotating of the U-Joint not really paying attention to the flat spot or click I could feel in one set of needle bearings. Well Mercedes Stakes the End Caps for the U-Joint in place. Now I have to wait till Monday to see if my Powertrain Guy can put a new Universal Joint in for me. I may have to replace the driveshaft. Mercedes considers the Driveshaft Non-Serviceable and to be replaced as a unit. The thing was moving so much the sleeve that protects the spline was shredded, I had to buy a replacement.

After talking to my go to gut for custom built driveshafts I've learned a staked U-Joint is not a replaceable part. You replace the entire driveshaft.



So I installed the new Spline Protector, greased the Splines, and reinstalled the Driveshaft making sure it went back in exactly like it came out.



The Driveshaft is encased in Exhaust Heat Shields so you can only see it near the Differential. I drove the car user a load with the new Hanger Bearing and the vibration is almost non-existent so I will be shopping for a new Driveshaft while driving my car again.

Hey Rojo

U can mill the staked out or use a dremmel tool
Check to see if you've got a flat surface inside the yolk for a the clips.
Done a bunch over the years.
If your local parts store can't help, check with Rockford joints

HTH

Originally Posted by jig rig

Hey Rojo

U can mill the staked out or use a dremmel tool
Check to see if you've got a flat surface inside the yolk for a the clips.
Done a bunch over the years.
If your local parts store can't help, check with Rockford joints

HTH

I called my guy who builds all my custom driveshafts and he told me the Mercedes yoke doesn't have groves for the snap rings. It would have to be re-staked. I ordered a complete driveshaft used off EBay for $97 delivered with a warranty. Rockauto offers a Doorman complete Serviceable Driveshaft for a reasonable price. If the EBay unit has a bad U-Joint I will return it and buy the Doorman Unit. Mercedes doesn't even make them anymore. I can get a custom 1 piece made also just the Doorman unit is bolt-in.

I have had excellent luck with the EBay used parts. You've seen my little car, buying used parts is still a upgrade from what I'm usually replacing.

I ordered a Dorman Driveshaft and it seems others are selling the same unit under different brands. Going with Dorman I get a limited Lifetime warranty. Others sold it cheaper but with a 1 year warranty.



This is a neat driveshaft as it is adjustable for length. You loosen the large Hat-Nut over the spline, completely bolt the driveshaft in place, then tighten the Hat-Nut to 7 ft/lbs. I installed the driveshaft complete, one unit, from out of the box into the car with new Flex Discs & Bolts on each end. I don't want to pull this back out ever. The middle picture shows the blue alignment dots for balancing as well as red arrows (one not shown) so you are sure to have it in balance on installation. I made sure the driveshaft didn't separate throughout the job.



To access the forward Flex Disc you must drop the Transmission Mount Bracket so I rigged up a carpeted 2x12 to support the Engine/transmission while the work was underway. The new heavy duty Flex Discs I bought come with new bolts and Locknuts, the new one in the front is pictured here.



The rear Flex Disc was also replaced. It takes a T-55 Torx socket for the bolt heads.



To remind everyone why I had to replace the entire driveshaft Mercedes Staked the U-Joint into the Yoke to retain it, now keeper of any kind was used and no groves in the Yoke to add them later are provided.

I would have never bought this car even as cheap as I got it if I had known all of the "Known" problems. I should have researched it before purchasing.

I went to Walmart and on the way back smelled something burning. Well driving in south Mississippi you smell something burning quite frequently from other's vehicles so it seemed it was worse with the A/C on so I shut it off and made it home. Well idling in the driveway my engine was making a terrible racked. I thought maybe it was time to dust off the old 44. Magnum and put it out of it's misery. The Crankshaft Harmonic Balancer Pulley Dynamited! I have never seen this happen before.



I took a couple of pictures of the belt routing once I removed the Radiator Cooling Fan for more room to work.



As the Dampener material melted it slung out sticking and hardening all over the place. Apparently this is a common Mercedes-Benz problem with all their cars.



It is held in place with a Torque to Yield bolt. 150 Newton Meters then 90 degrees. Tight should be in monster letters. I used a 4ft Cheater Pipe to break it free.



I had to fabricate a Crankshaft Pulley Holding Tool because the one I ordered from Amazon didn't fit my car engine even though their website spelled out that it did. this is the beginning of the tool, tacking up the pin location to the cast iron Union.



Here is a picture of the finished tool, I welded a 3ft Handle made out of 3/4 sch 40 black pipe.



I made it so it would cross the front of the engine and rest on the frame rail so I could use 2 hands on the cheater pipe.



The backside of the Crankshaft Pulley was hitting the front of the block & oil pan (cast aluminum) making all the racket.



Look how far back the pulley moved. Slung molten polymer all over the engine bay.



With the Harmonic Balancer Pulley out of the way I replaced the front Crankshaft Pulley Seal too. I don't want to have to pull this new Crankshaft Pulley back off due to a bad oil leak.



I had to just hold the tool when installing the new Balancer/Pulley so I used a little bungee to keep it in place while I repositioned the Torque Wrench and later cheater pipe to get the proper install of the retaining bolt.



I was already planning on replacing all the Pulleys and Idlers so I knocked that out too.



Pulling the Cooling Fan out really gives a lot of room. You have to remove the upper radiator hose to get the fan out so a coolant catch pan is needed. I warmed it up twice after getting the car back together adding coolant to the reservoir each time to eliminate any air in the system. We will see what breaks next.

Hopefully nothing else breaks!!!

Ms. Joyce's oldest boy bought a Benz mini SUV lookin' thing. Swears it's the best thing in the world. Tells me every time he has to take it to the dealer to fix it as they are the only ones that can work on them due to warranty...I keep telling him he don't need that status symbol, but his wife comes from money, and he comes from Abbeville....