Thread: Updating and Upgrading My Skeeter F-80 Strada

I slid the Axle in place using carpet scraps to keep from scratching the paint. Afterwards I installed the U-Bolts and bottom plate.



I try to keep hub kits around here and these 2 were stashed away for future use. Well the future arrived today. I can't stand any hub that uses Studs. Too much trouble changing a tire. Those Hubs are scrap now.



The Grease Caps can be a pain to install but using a old socket I can drive them right on.



Here is where the problem showed up. I thought the bend in the axle caused the wheel to be out of align but it was the spring on the side they backed into something with the axle striking hard enough to bend the tube at one of the spindles and in the tube itself.



You can see in the picture how far the wheel is back. I thought I was going to need new springs.



I removed the U-Bolts holding the Axle and bungeed it out of the way then started loosening the Spring bolts and the Spring just popped back in place. The shackles in the back securing the spring to the trailer frame was frozen pushed back. Never seen that in my life. Once the spring was allowed to return forward I put everything back together.



Now the tire is in a better alignment. I can use it like this till the new suspension arrives. Also the added 3/8in of length to the Axle Tube was all I could go. Once I switch over to the Mag Rims to offset of the rim should be fine.

Good job and good pics

Looking great Rojo. Won't be long now, you'll be splashing that Ole girl...

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Originally Posted by Jamesdean

Looking great Rojo. Won't be long now, you'll be splashing that Ole girl...

Thank you for the vote of confidence but I have run into a snag. Can't get the engine to idle. As soon as the CDI backs off the timing advance after starting and drops to 1000rpm the engine dies. Electrical problem, touch the key and it starts right back up. All electrical components are new except trigger coil & pulser coil. Both are on order.

Originally Posted by Rojo

Thank you for the vote of confidence but I have run into a snag. Can't get the engine to idle. As soon as the CDI backs off the timing advance after starting and drops to 1000rpm the engine dies. Electrical problem, touch the key and it starts right back up. All electrical components are new except trigger coil & pulser coil. Both are on order.

Some chineesium parts don't work right out of the "new" box. Ask me how I know: cheap jeep parts off the jungle website. But knowing the Roj, you're not shopping amazon for boat parts! Just a guess.

Originally Posted by Slab

Some chineesium parts don't work right out of the "new" box. Ask me how I know: cheap jeep parts off the jungle website. But knowing the Roj, you're not shopping amazon for boat parts! Just a guess.

OEM Yamaha all the way!

I finally received the 2 ignition system coils I had ordered and got the chance to replace both of them. The engine would not idle, the CDI unit would switch the engine off when returning to idle.



The first thing I had to do was clear a path for the strap wrench to wrap around the flywheel. The flywheel cover, starter, timing pointer, and pulser coil had to be removed and set aside. The flywheel cover is 3 screws, the starter 3 bolts, timing pointer 1 bolt, and pulser coil 2 bolts. Very simple.



I use a Harmonic Balancer Puller for Outboard flywheels. in the picture above you can see a gap between the flywheel and the retaining nut. Do not pull a flywheel without the nut protecting you and the end of the crankshaft. The flywheel can pop off flying thru the air when it releases.



The three bolts retaining the Stator also holds the Trigger coil plate. Remove the stator bolts, lay the stator to the side leaving it plugged in, unplug the trigger coil from the CDI unit and feed the wire out from behind the CDI / Voltage Regulator mounting plate to remove the trigger coil. As you can see I lay the coils out of the way first then unplug. Reversing the order the parts are reinstalled.



The pulser coil remains out of the way till I tighten the flywheel nut back.



Mounting the Pulser coil first I check to make sure the flywheel can not touch the pulser coil when it rotates. I use a wrench for this slowly turning the flywheel one revolution. Some Pulser coils have a adjustment of the gap between the pulser coil & flywheel. Usually the measurement is .010.



Bolting the starter back in place first the flywheel cover is installed making sure the tab on the back of it is holding the pulser coil wire in the correct place.

Started the engine up and now it idles, I have to launch the Skeeter to do the final engine tuning as backpressure is needed on the exhaust and the boat in gear to set the Idle RPM.

Good stuff. I love engines.