It'll all be better than new when you're done. The trailer came out great.
Finally got to play musical chairs with the boats here. I had to make a mess and I only do that in the big building.
I used the new Tach to trace the size opening I needed for a modern TACH on the console dash. The Carbide bit in the die grinder throws "Rootser-tails" of fiberglass shavings & dust everywhere when put to good use. 10 minutes with the vacuum later I had most of the mess in the boat cleaned up. Still had to clean up the stuff that shot out onto the floor.
Now I have the new TACH installed. Moving on to trailer light & wiring install.
It'll all be better than new when you're done. The trailer came out great.
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Rojo thanked you for this post
I have been really bothered with my rigging job in the Skeeter. Nagging at me was the weight of the 2 27 series Dual Purpose Lead Acid Batteries in the back of the boat. Today after checking the tongue weight again and finding very little I pulled the 2 batteries for some re-rigging. I had someone give me 2 Lithium batteries so after moving stuff all around I had more room in the back & more tongue weight too.
Since this engine will not fully charge a LIFEPO4 battery I added a PC950 Odyssey battery I had just for the engine only. It will work fine and at 22 pounds and tiny size mountable well out of the way. I decided to use the other 2 Lithium batteries for the rest of the boat and trolling motor supply. Trolling motor is 12 volts so the two batteries will be rigged isolated from each other, this will be a 3 circuit boat using a dedicated Lithium Profile charger for the Lithium batteries and allowing the engine to maintain the PC950 Odyssey.
I'm going to be going back over this build as well as your super recognizable Black and Green build. Once the navy finally gets me paid off for camp Lejeune, and Mz Joyce decides where our house will be, (Talking about moving down near two of the Grandbabies). So, IF, I say IIIIFFFF, she ever decides, I'm going to pull a Slab and ROJO, and strip mine down to the hull, replace stringers, and foam, and most probably replace the transom while I'm there. Will most Likely be getting an aluminum to go fishing with.
This one is looking great John, as always.
Proud to have served with and supported the Units I was in: 1st IDF, 9th INF, 558th USAAG (Greece), 7th Transportation Brigade, 6th MEDSOM (Korea), III Corp, 8th IDF, 3rd Armor Div.
1980 Ebbtide Dyna-Trak 160 Evinrude 65 TriumphRojo LIKED above post
Here is my question as I have numerous 999Hd Si units and 1 original Gen1 Helix 10 to connect this 360 to. I would like to know if I position a 360 on the starboard side where the RAM mount is positioned can I still see in front of the boat with the trolling motor where it is or does it have to be on the trolling motor? I want to position it on the side for better over the road towing, have it well out of the way when not in use, and have the mounting ball well out of the way when the 360 is not on the boat. A second seat base will be installed in front of the hatch pictured as I like to single pole in heavy cover (with trees close overhead) so plan on positioning a seat right up on the front.
I need to add the 999 may be mounted on the deck right in front of the switch panel so I can rest my feet on the gunnel. I will throw some SeaDek up there so I don't scratch up the gelcoat.
The hand control TM has reverse, much easier to fish tight places. No turning the TM Foot to back out.
Last edited by Rojo; 11-19-2024 at 12:44 PM.
I had no problems seeing in front of the boat when I had my 360 on both port (360 only) and starboard (360 + LVS32 on a pole) sides at any given time and not mounted to the trolling motor when when I had the Terrova. Honestly, I think that the transducer was in the water about a foot or so (not too terribly deep), and I don't remember seeing any shadows from the trolling motor. While I do have the 360 and LVS on the trolling motor right now, I'm working on a new pole mount for my LVS32 without the 360 in case I decide to go back to manually aiming--and I probably will when i go back to spider rigging.
If I'm not at work or taking kids to their activities, you might find me on "The Rez" fishing. If not there, I could be in the garage working on my boat.
The one critical group of parts in a 3 cylinder 2 stroke Outboard engine is the carburetors. Not only must they be fed clean fuel but be kept clean & timed or synchronized for a smooth idling, power building engine is such a small package. A 1986 Skeeter was made in a time when it was inconceivable that the weights of 4 stroke engines of today, would ever be made much less a boat owner would buy one. At 249 pounds these engines produce 90+ prop horsepower. Add a milled head and rejet the carbs an you top 100HP. For right now I just need to make sure the idle circuits are spotless.
You remove the Carbs as a group. A couple of hoses & wires disconnected and the whole group can be carried over to the bench for cleaning.
I'm using a Harbor Freight Ultrasonic Cleaner with a 50/50 mix of original Pine-Sol & water. This little cleaner is a heated unit so in 20 minutes cooks out and gunk & micro particles in the fuel passages. The Yamaha OEM bowl & air bleed chamber seals are not damaged by this cleaning solution.
I pull the floats & seat needles out as well as the Cold Start Valve & Diaphragms. You can see the Carb on the left is much cleaner than the one on the right. As soon as they come out of the cleaning solution I first blow off with air then rinse with Carb Cleaner and blow again. Finally a wash in WD40 followed by one last shot of compressed air and I'm ready for reassembly.
I pulled the boat out to the hose to crank up the engine to find all the old fuel hoses leaking now that I disturbed them. Hoses are hardened to the point they must be replaced. So I will order those today.