A good reminder indeed. It seems like brain lock sets in sometimes.
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Non-unit power related issues are usually one of the top root causes for units returned to the factory. Remember that those electrical connections on your boat go through a lot; moist conditions which help cause corrosion, than there is all of the vibration and mechanical shock that they go through both on an off water. I always solder then seal my electrical connections to help prevent these types of failures. Do not forget to check the fuse, fuse holder and battery contacts as these are usually the areas that fail.
As in all problems with your sonar-GPS units: try cross-testing on another boat (or setup on your boat) to help rule out power wiring or bad accessories like transducers or external GPS Receivers. This can save you time and frustrations in the long run.
Will using dielectric grease stop the corrosion?
After I had the corrosion problem a few years back, I'm with Greg, I now solder all connections when possible. Then heat shrink and on top of that I paint a coat of liquid tape. I also use the liquid tape over spade connections. If I have a connection I need to remove often or on battery connections I will use dielectric grease. This has stopped 99.9% of my loose or corrosion electrical problems.
It appears that that the problem was the battery. Although it showed near 12v on the multimeter it went south in a hurry. The tilt on my OB stopped working and the engine wouldn't turn over. I replaced the battery so, seemingly, that should take care of it. Thanks for all the input.
Thanks for letting us know
First time out with new battery. 798 worked fine all day. 998 worked well for about 5 hrs then shut down, I restarted it and it worked well for a couple of hrs, then it shut down again. I started it again and it work for the remaining 45 minutes of our fishing.