Thread: electric short

Get a couple of pictures of the elec panels would help a bunch. Put us all on the same page. What about switches? My boat has/had a power switch and accessory switch.

Personally, I would disconnect the electronics wires one at a time until I isolated the problem.

I would load test battery before doing anything else. When trouble shooting any electrical problem it is important to eliminate the easiest fixes first.

What you have is not a short. A short blows fuses. If wires are not fused it melts and burns wire. As others have stated you have an unintended power drain or a weak battery.

If you like to T/S and fix your own electrical problems. If do not have one get a good multi meter. Spend somewhere betwixt 60-100 for a decent one.

Next remove battery from system and fully re-charge. I usually let mine set overnight . After done charging measure voltage across terminals it should read somewhere between 13.5 and 14 volts. If it does this is a good sign as far as re-charging. Now can it hold a charge. The way I check is I made a load of two headlights hooked in parallel with two alligator clips that fit on battery terminals. This will put a decent load on battery. With lights on wait about 10 minutes and then measure voltage again. Should still measure well above 12 volts if below 12 battery needs replaced. If that test passes re-install battery but hook up ONLY your primary ignition wire for your boats engine. Place your multi meter lead on battery again and turn engine starter. Make sure fuel is shut off or disconnected as you don't want an accidental start. If voltage falls below 12 rather quickly chances are battery is going bad. We are talking like 5 second here. The greatest amp draw on your battery is when you start it. Another clue a typical lead cell acid battery life is about 5 years. Poor maintenance practice or poorly constructed of course can greatly affect that

If your battery passes all these test then and only then would I start trying to figure out a power drain. I just can't imagine any electronics dragging a good battery down over such a short time.

Do what Canepole said "Personally, I would disconnect the electronics wires one at a time until I isolated the problem." If that doesn't work check your motors charging system. Your rectifier has 4 or 6 diodes in it. If the right one shorts it can cause that exact same problem.

Well I guess I will just save what time I invested in trying to help. My advice if it was
was sound or not was just deemed worthless.

My fault for forgetting that no good deed ever goes unpunished. I won't make that mistake in
this forum again.
Mr Moderator the floor is all yours once again.

thanks for the help. I just have not had time to further explore the problem. I just pulled the fuse until i get time to work on it. Thanks again will let everyone know how it turns out

Originally Posted by hays47

Well I guess I will just save what time I invested in trying to help. My advice if it was
was sound or not was just deemed worthless.

My fault for forgetting that no good deed ever goes unpunished. I won't make that mistake in
this forum again.
Mr Moderator the floor is all yours once again.

Originally Posted by hays47

Well I guess I will just save what time I invested in trying to help. My advice if it was
was sound or not was just deemed worthless.

My fault for forgetting that no good deed ever goes unpunished. I won't make that mistake in
this forum again.
Mr Moderator the floor is all yours once again.

Your advice certainly isn't worthless. The battery should be the first thing checked with any electrical problem.

Power first always. What was described (as I interpreted it) was an undesirable current drain. Isolate and eradicate.

UPDATE! I had the battery load tested and it tested good. I then removed the fuse panel and checked for loose wires or connections. NONE. I then went to the circiut board that was labeled "Electronic only" which is a plastic board with 2 rows of spade connections. All seemed tight and no corrossion. I then dissconnected the + side of the battery and connected the test light between the + post and the led wire going to the fuse panel. Before there was a dim light in the test light showing a draw. THIS TIME THERE WAS NOT! Tried it several times, tested light to make sure it was working, No Draw. All I can say is " the ELECTRIC GODS must have fixed it". We will see. Thanks for all the advice it was greatly appreciated.