Reply With QuoteI’ll be checking mine next time I unload….you are blessed to have a way to lift your Champ off and on.
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Champ Trailer had Rotten Bunks
My Bud I bought the boat from goes to a Lake for a month at a time. He just replaced the bunks 3 years ago but didn't use Cypress wood. It's OK if you fish then the bunks get to dry but he fishes 28 days out of 30 so the poor treatment used in today's treated wood just can't hold up to that kind of use. After finding the Lag Bolts loose it's been nagging at me to do a deeper dive. I'm glad I did as the bunks were rotting in spots.
When I replaced the tires on my Fishin' Expedition I kept the old ones to use for resting boats on. Here I'm using them for a safety support as picking this boat up with my overhead lift put a load on it.
The carpet was installed properly for good drainage but it had long periods of time continuously wet from daily dunking when on the lake.
Once the old boards are removed and the new boards cut I align one at a time for drilling. The clamps keep the board secure while I drill from underneath so all the holes align perfectly the first time. You must pick through the wood stack and only buy as knot free and densely grained wood as possible. You can see the board has very dense grain and no knots big enough to weaken the bunk after installation.
I do not ever install Lag Bolts in trailer bunks. When you see a bunk loose on someone's trailer after launching their boat you're looking at bunks attached with Lag Bolts.
My Bud used high quality Lag Bolts but I only use hot dipped galvanized Carriage Bolts. They never let a bunk float off.
Traditionally I only use Monel Staples but have let my stash get too low so I had to go out and get stainless steel to keep working. Since this boat is going to The Rez and I always use a entire box of staples on a job like this I should be fine for a long time.
By leaving the bolts in the wood I never carpet the wrong side and by writing which position & direction on the bunk they install with a perfect fit the first time.
Buying the carpet in 100ft rolls for my shop I set a roll in a folding chair while measuring off what I need for the bunk I'm working on. In the second picture I hope you can see just how many staples I put in the carpet. Only a 1 inch space between each staple. If you don't use a whole box of staples you didn't do it right. I personally like to do the long bunks first and fully bolt them down before moving to the short bunks.
The outside bunks are cut on a 35 degree angle on the stern end. here I am covering them with carpet before installing both on the trailer frame. I put the boat back on the trailer before quitting yesterday evening, I don't like leaving a boat in the air overnight if possible.
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I’ll be checking mine next time I unload….you are blessed to have a way to lift your Champ off and on.
“If your too busy to fish, you’re too busy!” Buddy Ebsen
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There was a discussion about bunk replacement years ago here on C.C and a catfishing website. Never use treated wood with an aluminum boat, ok with a glass boat. Don't know if it was the older green treatment or the new yellow treatment. The yellow treated wood doesn't last as long as to green treated for sure.
Wilson Lumber Company in north Memphis, TN was the only dealer with cypress in the area. I could have driven farther south and got fresh rough cut at a better price. I wanted longer bunks, measured and placed an order, picked up within the week. Measured old bunks for bolt hole placement, Mine had 3/8" galvanized bolts a bit short for the new wood. New longer bolts, Holes drilled in new before old bunks removed. Carpet cut to width needed. Launched my boat and brought trailer back to campsite. Replaced the bunks, used 1" roof nails to apply carpet. 5/8" staples wouldn't hold carpet in place. Removed the old carpet from the bunks for trash and bunks for firewood. The old staples were 1" long.
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I believe it was 5-10 years since I last replaced the bunks on my trailer. While I have a drawing that I used to measure them up for the next replacement, I forgot to get measurements for the holes off the last set so that I can go the carriage bolt route for the next time. I guess it is time to check the carriage bolt tightness the next time that I launch the boat or get bored at home and feel like climbing under the trailer.
If I'm not at work or taking kids to their activities, you might find me on "The Rez" fishing. If not there, I could be in the garage working on my boat.
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You should have seen me building that lift by myself. The I-Beam after welding extra to it for length I set on top of my Bobcat with my Loader/Grapple on the tractor. I just drove the I-Beam in then used the front lift arm on the Bobcat to set the end on top of the post bolted to the wall. Then came in with my Tractor to lift the other end up to the cross supports. After I tacked everything together and pulled the equipment out before welding solid. Bud I have been continuously working on this shop since 2005 and it takes work or you have money. Time I had, money I didn't so I built as I could knowing one day I would need it. The lift still needs bracing welded in, my Champion is the heaviest boat I picked up yet.Originally Posted by BuckeyeCrappie
Last edited by Rojo; 04-03-2025 at 05:35 PM.
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The old wood was treated with copper & arsenic. Today marine wood is only is only .85 instead of 2.5 treatment. The docks here are eaten by this kinda bore looking worm. They are having to wrap the pilings now before setting as the treatment won't keep the bores out. Sad. Lee Zeldon is now head of the EPA and they are rolling back all these crazy. non-science based rules.
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Mighty fine work. Those stainless staples are the way to go. That cypress should last forever
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