Updating and Upgrading My Skeeter F-80 Strada

We all come across a time when we need to remove the old decals on our boats. This works on most things but be careful on how much you heat automotive paint when removing the decals. Also a quality adhesive remover is required. The photo is the best adhesive remover I have ever found.

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To start out you need a heat gun on the low setting & a plastic razorblade scraper.

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Starting out you just warm up one decal at a time. I like to work from left to right because I am left handed. Control of the scraper is key to a quick & easy job. Once you have warmed the decal up a bit test at a corner if it is ready to release. If not warm some more, if it is just push the plastic razorblade under the decal and remove it. The State decals was about 5-6 decals thick. In that case I warm the whole decal a bit then once one corner lifts I use a pair of pliers to hold the corner, pulling at a angle till the whole decal is removed.

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Using the adhesive remover spray a lite coat on one decal glue residue spot at a time. Completely clean the spot before moving on. Once I get done I do a last wipe spraying the entire area with adhesive remover then wiping again.

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To remove the outline left by weathering you have to polish the gelcoat enough to blend the colors together.

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On a boat this oxidized I use a heavy machine compound with my rpm around 250 rpms a minute. To build up a little heat I push the pad down and do not use more speed. I have found color & shine will come back with the right pressure & speed faster than any other method I have tried. If really bad I will water sand by machine with 2000-3000 grid before polishing. Now your hull is ready for new numbers, don't forget to wax over the number after waiting a few days for the PSA to cure.

Great info Rojo, thanks for sharing.

[mention]Rojo [/mention], if I need to have major work done to my Skeeter SF-175, I’ll need to bring it down to you or have you pick up after a trip to The Rez. This is good stuff!

I'm realizing my prejudice against Skeeter because almost all of my experience was with Saltwater Center Consoles is falsely founded. The Bass Boats seem to be built very well structurally speaking. I ordered some supplies today for the boat. I already had bilge & bait pumps, auto bilge switch, new light fixtures, a stereo antenna, bunk carpet, a stereo that fits in a tach hole, a small amp, 1 set of speakers, a prop (had to order a hub kit), etc. The light switches were original push/pull switches, I'm replacing with like switches since the location is too thick for a baton/toggle style switch. I'm adding a timer for the livewell so I ordered a double circuit push/pull switch (running lite switch) because you can put the timer on the first pull detent and bypass the timer on the second detent. Doing the same with the Auto Bilge switch. I like to be able to disable a auto bilge float switch so I will put that on a double circuit switch too. First detent supplies power to the float switch and second bypass the switch manually turning the bilge pump on. I always install a high quality Perko stern lite on top of my outboard cowls. The heat from the engine keeps the fixture from corroding, and the lite is easy to see but out of the way. I had to order a roll of Ancor ribbon 16/2 to power the stern lite. Also a water pressure gauge, I install one on every boat I own. Today I realized the trim sending unit wiring harness is for a older engine. I have the correct one for the C90TLRY so after fishing tomorrow I will pull it in. Some are 2 wire trim sending units and some are 3 wire.

UPS didn't run till almost 5pm today. I received the supplies and laid out the parts from my stash to work on organizing the flow of work. Working from a plan you don't regret doing a different task later. I visualize each action or process of work flow then write down the order I need to install the parts. Keeps my mind from cluttering up while I really have to pay close attention to what I'm currently doing, precision work.

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I'm going to go ahead and rewire the entire boat while I'm at it, that Rabbit Hole sees I'm a Sucker and gets me to Entering it............

I dug thru my stash and decided to run this 19in Ballistic from Michigan Wheel to start with. I don't know if it will be the final choice, depends if I get too much bow lift or not.

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This wheel would already be on but when I checked the Hub Kit part numbers I found inside a Yamaha 60-90HP hub kit box was a thrust washer for a Tohatsu. Never been a Tohatsu even in my shop. Always check the part numbers of the individual parts.

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This is the correct part number for my engine and guess what, it fits perfectly. I can only think I received that thrust washer if my supplier sent it to me from another customer (it was a return).


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I really like this grease for all wheel bearings that get dunked as well as installing props as it will not mix with water like regular wheel bearing grease will. In all the years my shop was open I didn't have a single wheel bearing fail on a customers trailer as well as my own. That being said I pulled many a hub to find monofilament fishing line had wrapped the spindle and cut the wheel seal. I washed the bearings, pack them with fresh grease, install a new seal, mount the hub, set the preload, install the tire without any worries that the bearing would fail later. Props slide right off after being on 7-8 years or longer.

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To make these props universal most have a plastic ring that takes up the excess clearance between the foot casting and the forward base of the prop hub. They can be a pain to install, your instructions show which engines needs a ring.

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With the retaining nut torqued down and the cotter pin installed this job is a wrap.

60-90Hp Yamaha 2 Strokes are still around and if you want to run better props you need a different Anode with a offset. The Yamaha part number is hard to find but I buy Martyr Anodes anyway so I took a picture of the packaging back card to show the part numbers. Here we are in Saltwater & Brackish Water a lot so I went with the premium aluminum anodes this time.

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You can see how these Prop end Skeg Anodes are made. It allows you to run almost any kind of Prop.

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The old anode needed cleaning and could be used but I think it is Magnesium.
Magnesium anodes are for Freshwater use only.

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Zinc is for Saltwater, Aluminum is for both Saltwater & Brackish water, and Magnesium is for Freshwater only.

I realized the Yamaha rigging wiring harness was not correct for the C90. Also I needed to work a Water Pressure Gauge tubing & Running Lite wire thru the grommet. The OEM Tach & Gauges were all original, I'm replacing them with newer gauges.

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The Tach mounting hole is too small for a modern tach. I will need to open it up.

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Yamaha manufacturers their rigging wiring harnesses long to fit more applications. Here I fold the excess rigging outside over the gunnel until I'm fully complete on terminating both ends. At that point the balance of the excess can be folded neatly, secured with tie wraps, and tucked out of the way. Normally I secure to the steering cable but this one is a foot too long for long term use, it will be replaced or hydraulics installed soon.

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The rigging wiring is all tucked out of the way in this little boat, I'm folding like a pretzel to reach some of this stuff.

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Dirt Dauber nests are everywhere. I can fill a 5 gallon bucket with them. Well the bright side the boat is getting lighter.

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Pulling rigging back and forth I'm keeping 2 fish tapes working. Running lite circuit & water pressure tubing heading to the engine here.

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When working everything into the molded Lower Cowl Grommet you need patience. So many things need to line up with the exact spot Yamaha designed it to be once rigged. The clamp for the grommet is not just tightened down smashing everything in place, these older engine clamps will bend and break. I grab the entire bundle with my right hand twisting the bundle back and forth while pressing down on the clamp with the other hand. As items in the bundle snug together I can turn each bolt in the clamp by hand a little more. I keep doing this till the clamp is almost bottoming out on the lower cowl before tightening the bolts to secure it.

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The water pressure tubing is routed to where the fitting screws into the water cooling system in the engine.

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To accomplish a nice neat ambilocal connection like this takes time. I never rush this part, if the contents don't want to lay right for me I walk off to return later finishing the task. Seems walking off if needed always works when things just do want to work like I expect them to.

I noticed the OEM Tach opening is smaller than the current standard. I'm going to have to open it up to fit the Tach I want to use. This will be done later when the AC is not running, I don't want any fiberglass dust sucked into the unit.

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So I don't think the pumps are original but they are very old. To make it easy for me to get access I pulled the Aft Hatch Assembly. Removing it really opens the back of the boat up.

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I called Tiny's Fiberglass in Longview Tx., the owner is the most knowledgeable person I know on Skeeter boats. He has been in business I would guess close to 50 years. Anyway after looking at the center hatch hinge mount I was getting the impression it was structural connecting the Splashwell to the rest of the Cap. So I called to get his opinion if he thought I could eliminate the Dual Hatch System and fabricate one big hatch but he brought to my attention this boat does not have Knee Braces between the Transom and Stringers. That idea is out the window for now.

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Now that the Pumps were accessible I pulled them out. Check out the motor out of the Bilge Pump. How long has it been since this pump was used? All junk.

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The first picture is the "Sleepers" I hate in a boat wiring harness. This Grounding Splice was tucked in a place you would never find without ripping all the wiring out as I have done. You loose the splice you loose the entire wiring system. I pulled out the wire I planned to use and started making a new wiring harness. Since the battery is right next to the pumps I will use a expanding battery terminal with individual screws to ground the pumps, aft compartment lighting, fuel sending unit (if a permanent fuel tank is ever installed), etc. That way only one circuit is on one screw. I keep Convoluted Tubing in stock 3/8in to 3/4in. I'm using 3/4in here because I plan on pulling the Water Pressure tubing and Aft Running Lite wire back out to route inside this harness.

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This is the best wiring harness length estimator I own. It's 10ft long so it makes short work of estimating the length of harness needed. BTW the insulated wine glass is full of Mayhaw Fuji Apple wine since this is evening entertainment.

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The new wiring harness is ready to install. Got it connected to the Fish Tape by quitting time. More later.

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First off was to pull the new wiring harness in.

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Then on to the pumps. I didn't realize the pump I had in stock was a 1-1/8in output hose so I ordered a 800gph 3/4in output Bilge Pump and kept working. I installed a new Livewell Pump for the rear Livewell, the front Livewell is being disconnected. I need the storage space. So where that Supply Pump for the front livewell was I need to close up the hole in the transom. I used a composite drain tube with a screw in drain plug. After installing the drain tube I applied silicone to the plug threads before installing. That way it will never come out unless I intend it to. I'm waiting to connect the rear livewell supply hose till the pump sealant is fully cured in the transom.

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I have this old box, it's leftover rigging wiring be it battery cables to 14ga wire. All new or like new. This box is almost 10 years old, I don't throw anything away. Saves lots of money.

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I use Hydraulic Crimpers on all the Battery Lugs. I can't stand the die set you put in a vise then beat with a Hammer. Since I make battery cables frequently I usually have what I need in stock. Here I'm installing a Dual Battery Switch so if my starting battery needs a jump I just flip a switch. Extra heavy current carrying conductors from the battery & battery switch were needed for 12V supply so I used #6 for those.

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These Stak-On pliers are almost 50 years old. I have had them forever it seems. Anyway if you look closely to the two crimp pictures for a non-insulated ring terminal these pliers product the highest current carrying crimp I know of in hand pliers. The terminals are heavier duty too.

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For smaller current terminals I like these adhesive sealant shrink tube terminals. Different crimping pliers must be used so the insulation is not damaged. I heat the terminals till sealant extrudes from the ends of the insulation.

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By pre-wiring the Battery Switch once screwed in place it will stay. A extra set of conductors to the Trolling Motor battery for emergency starts.

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The first terminal is not sufficient for the current load so I replaced it with a heavy duty terminal before landing it on the new Ground Bus.

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I buy heavy duty heat shrink for battery terminals. it's very thick and full of glue.

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You can see now the added Ground Bus. Like most boats of this era this boat had one big ground splice in a place you may never find unless you're removing all the old wiring like me here. I deleted that splice and all my ground connections will terminate to this Bus.