Its defiantly not my normal guide lay out, but I didn't want 2 to 4 pound line rubbing on the blank. I honestly wrapped this whip stick 5 times before I got the spacing to a point I was happy with it. But we will see for the next one I'm building how it performs with it set up this way. The blank has so much flex it will flex in the real seat gap. I'm going to be testing this thing on crappie all the way to some red fish in saltwater, so its going to get the flex tested for sure.

On most Metallic or a NOCP (witch means no color preserver, the thread itself is already treated) thread you don't need a color preserver. I personally never use it anymore as it gives you a weaker finished wrap, because it puts a barrier that keeps the epoxy from penetrating the thread down to get a bond directly to the guide foot and blank. Now in saying that, what wickundrh said is true. If your wrap has any gaps you cant burnish out or use a thread that requires a color preserver it will help make the wrap look cleaner or not completely changer the color, in the end its a trade off. I only use threads I know don't need it and wrap it as tight as possible. If I'm not happy with it, I will be cutting it off and redoing it since my name is on the rod and I have pride in that. Most of the gaps come from not grinding the guide foot down so you have a clean and tight transition. The best tool to grind the guide foot down is a knife sharpener that uses a sanding belt. You can roll the guide foot to make sure it doesn't have any sharp edges that will cut the thread, witch will happen. The way to get the clearest and strongest wrap is, going strait epoxy. This will let the epoxy soak in the thread and have the strongest bond directly to the guide foot and blank. Most name brand rod company's as do I, use two coats of flex coat and it also sets up faster. The first coat you want to start at the tip and work your way back to the larger areas you have to cover. It takes epoxy a few minuets to start flowing better. Then go back and take as much of it off as you can, when it dries you should be able to feel the thread ridges. Then then add a thin coat just to smooth out the finish. Since the thread is already soaked and will not soak up the epoxy any more, you will see what it will about look like dried when its wet. Its one of these you see what you get, if its to thin add some more if its to fat or is balling up take some off. A lot of people will cut the finish epoxy with alcohol to thin it out, but in my option that weakens it and if you do it wrong it will not set up correctly. I would never tell anyone to try and cut it. I know Larger scale Custom rod builders that do this so it does work but its way to easy not to get right. I use a bottle warmer that warmers the epoxy witch makes it thinner so it soaks into the thread easier and faster to get a strong bond to the blank. You can get one for like 35$ at mudhole. I would also get a epoxy mixer, it just helps get the finish epoxy mixed properly with no air bubbles.