Got distance?

I read a lot about pencil floats for crappie and bluegill but I have a dilemma. I don't normally get out in a boat so I need some advice.

I have had some luck fishing close in shore but a majority of the crappie I see that have any size are way out the middle. I have tried casting bobbers throwing well past the fish and bringing it back but I either miss the fish or they steal the bait.

Is there a sensitive pencil float that I will see the fish bite even the lightest nibble that can be cast well over 50 feet? Sometimes it is 30 yards or more to where the fish are in the rock pits that we find them in the most in my area. A casting bobber is fine for distance but I think it spooks the fish with the huge splash even though I cast well past them not to mention the size of the thing.

No such thing as a heavy float/bobber to cast way out that will have super sensitivity. Either use a bait they will hold on to longer like a minnow or get ya a float tube. Slightly lighter line and a slightly heavier float with your bait closer to the float will increase casting distance a tad. Maybe a fly rod. I use really small floats and baits and have a hard time getting any real distance, im still very happy with how effective the rig is though. I dont spook fish with my casts and will catch anything that would nibble the bait.

try putting a pencil float between the casting float and the bait. You will see the bite on the pencil float long before it gets to the casting float. be sure to put it 8 to 12 inches behind the casting float.

You know those cheap foam pencil bobbers they sell at Walmart? I can throw one of them about 25 feet. They are very light and not very aerodynamic. Is there a pencil bobber that has a little more weight to it? It should cast farther than the cheap ones and be a lot more aerodynamic. Some of them I see look like they should be heavier and a lot more streamline, especially some of the ones that have a larger bulb in the middle.

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

Is there a sensitive ... float that I will see the fish bite even the lightest nibble that can be cast well over 50 feet?

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Yes, it's called a waggler. It's all I ever use. Big wagglers can easily be cast 50-60 YARDS, and are far more sensitive than other floats.

Every year since about 1957, there has been a world championship of float fishing. It attracts the best float fishermen from over 40 nations, and the only floats they use (for rod and reel applications) are wagglers.

The Thill wagglers are readily available from Bass Pro and Cabelas. FishUSA.com and Wackerbaits.com carry Drennan wagglers.

Do a search for "waggler" and "deathb4disco", and you'll find more info. I've posted a lot about them.

Okay, I think I have the basics down. The float is threaded onto the line and shot is used to hold it in place. The amount used depends on the float size for still water.

The thing I don't get is I don't know if they work the way I used to fishing a float. My basic fishing style with a float has been to use a stick bobber that lays flat on the water. When a fish hits it the bobber stands up and I set the hook. I understand that the Waggler isn't fished this way or can it be used that way?

I also see that it has the possibility to actually raise up out of the water when a fish hits the lure/bait because it also lifts a shot making the rig lighter.

Can anyone help me decide on a float that I can cast a good distance, I know I have to sacrifice some, that I can fish without adding shot down the line from the float? I really like to fish a clean leader from the float to the bait without any weight at all away from the float. Either a float that only leaves the tip up or one that I can let lay flat on the surface to indicate even the slightest bite. And still only use the weight of a small bait?

I guess I am being too picky but I know how I like to float fish. I think my methods can still work for crappie and gills. If they can't, please let me know and I can adapt my methods to match the floats I need to use so I can finally see that tiny little bite that I miss with other floats and not have the fish drop the bait before I can set the hook.

f4all the heavier the float in a tip up float anyway the less sensitive they are to soft bites. My family is Native American and we have alot of ways to fish "floats " We use more dense woods than balsa to get the weight and still have a tip up style float. Can you buy them?? I have never seen them for sale. My late uncle used to make almost all of ours. He used everything from river cane to cedar with cedar being the heaviest. He farmed for a living in South Georgia and during the winter he made floats...he tried everything...he even made some floats out of pecans...his son, my cousin was a trouble shooter for sears and he was very handy with a lathe so he helped my uncle alot with his hobby. unfortunately he suffered a stroke from a aneurysum and is unable to make them any more. Neccessity is the mother of invention so maybe you need to sit down and study about all the things you want the float to do and make a f4all float. It could turn out to be a hobby in itself and I bet you would enjoy it too.
brim

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

The thing I don't get is I don't know if they work the way I used to fishing a float. My basic fishing style with a float has been to use a stick bobber that lays flat on the water. When a fish hits it the bobber stands up and I set the hook.

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The most sensitive float is the one with the least amount of float sticking out of the water. This also means that the fish feels the least amount of resistance. What you're talking about leaves the entire float on top of the water. This maximizes the resistance to the fish and minimizes sensitivity. That's the exact opposite of what you want.

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

I understand that the Waggler isn't fished this way or can it be used that way?

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It can be fished that way but, for the reasons I mentioned above, it's not something you want to do.

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

I also see that it has the possibility to actually raise up out of the water when a fish hits the lure/bait because it also lifts a shot making the rig lighter.

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Yes, that's one of the big advantages of a waggler -- the ability to show lift bites.

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

Can anyone help me decide on a float that I can cast a good distance, I know I have to sacrifice some, that I can fish without adding shot down the line from the float? I really like to fish a clean leader from the float to the bait without any weight at all away from the float. Either a float that only leaves the tip up or one that I can let lay flat on the surface to indicate even the slightest bite. And still only use the weight of a small bait?

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I don't understand your aversion to having weight down the line from the float. You need some weight down the line to aid in sensitivity. That weight can be in the form of a small split shot 6"-18" from the hook or a light jig. Either way will work.

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

I guess I am being too picky but I know how I like to float fish. I think my methods can still work for crappie and gills. If they can't, please let me know and I can adapt my methods to match the floats I need to use so I can finally see that tiny little bite that I miss with other floats and not have the fish drop the bait before I can set the hook.

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I abandoned my float methods about 15 years ago for the English style taught to me by my mentors (two transplanted Englishmen.) If you put a gun to my head I wouldn't go back!

Okay, then lets see if we can find me a float that will work. Most of the time the water is rough with waves about 1-2 inches high. I am fishing in deep water, the lakes around here that have big crappie and gill are close to 30 feet in most areas, most of the time anyway. I need to cast at least 20 feet and most of the time i need to throw up to 50+ feet. I use medium light 5'6" to 6' rods. 6# mainline with a 4# leader. I do often fish with a braider line for casting a bobber so I don't break them off but I always use a 4# leader. Point me in the right direction please. Trout can be just as finicky at times so I will probably use it with them also.

As for not wanting a weight on the leader line, my trout bite to cast ratio tripled when I stopped using weight on my leader. Clear water conditions are common most of the summer here so I try to use as clean a presentation as possible. Maybe it doesn't and won't matter for crappie/gills so I will have to give the shot down the leader a try. Fishing with a clean leader outfished most everyone else that fishes bobbers/floats for trout on any given day so I figured it would work as well for panfish.

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

Okay, then lets see if we can find me a float that will work. Most of the time the water is rough with waves about 1-2 inches high. I am fishing in deep water, the lakes around here that have big crappie and gill are close to 30 feet in most areas, most of the time anyway. I need to cast at least 20 feet and most of the time i need to throw up to 50+ feet. I use medium light 5'6" to 6' rods. 6# mainline with a 4# leader. I do often fish with a braider line for casting a bobber so I don't break them off but I always use a 4# leader. Point me in the right direction please. Trout can be just as finicky at times so I will probably use it with them also.

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For this type of fishing, you'll have to use a slip float (called a "slider" by the English.) Here's a good basic article on "how to" with the slider. It contains an excellent diagram on how the rig should look.

Commercials Part 12 – Advanced Float Fishing - FISHINGmagic Reference

I'd just use one of the Thill balsa wagglers with this set-up.

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

As for not wanting a weight on the leader line, my trout bite to cast ratio tripled when I stopped using weight on my leader. Clear water conditions are common most of the summer here so I try to use as clean a presentation as possible. Maybe it doesn't and won't matter for crappie/gills so I will have to give the shot down the leader a try. Fishing with a clean leader outfished most everyone else that fishes bobbers/floats for trout on any given day so I figured it would work as well for panfish.

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When I fish maggots for gills, I put a SMALL shot about 6-8" from the hook, usually a #8 Dinsmore. It's about 1/16" in diameter. (Bass Pro carries the Dinsmore shot in their fly shop.) I've never had a problem catching gills or trout with this set-up. I'm not really sure how big a weight you're using, though. I'm sure using bigger shots down the line would spook fish.

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

I use medium light 5'6" to 6' rods.

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If you're fishing from shore, long rods will really help. I mostly fish from shore, and my rods are all 12-14 footers.

10-12 foot rods huh, I have never even considered using such a long rod. That would be a site though using an ultra light rod 10-12 feet long fishing in the lakes around here.

That brings up a whole new issue, what type of rod? The only one I have ever fished that was that long was a noodle rod and I know it would never handle anything like the setup I see for Wagglers. The rod was designed for using 1/8 ounce max so the setups I have seen would be way too much.

I am really beginning to think i just need to get a variety pack of Wagglers and Avons and try them to see what I can fish right and make work. There has to be some way to rig them that will allow me to see a tip up bite and a take down bite and still use a shorter rod. Not that I am against a longer rod but I want to learn one thing at a time. Learning to throw a float with weight in that type of configuration will be hard enough compared to how I fish now.

And what is the difference when fishing choppy water or is it just a matter of taking of a BBBB shot to let the bobber top stick out just a tiny bit more so it can be seen easier?

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

That brings up a whole new issue, what type of rod? The only one I have ever fished that was that long was a noodle rod and I know it would never handle anything like the setup I see for Wagglers. The rod was designed for using 1/8 ounce max so the setups I have seen would be way too much.

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Forget the noodle rods. They're way too soft for casting wagglers.

The best rods are match rods. They have the perfect action: excellent backbone with a light tip. Unfortunately, they are not readily available. Wacker Baits sells one that looks decent. Cabelas has one also, but they changed the blank (for the worse, IMO.)

My second choice would be a "light steelhead" rod from 8.5-10' long. Cabelas sells several different models that are reasonably-priced.

My third choice would be a BnM or WM crappie pole from 9-10' long. They are not ideal (too soft), but they will work in a pinch.

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

I am really beginning to think i just need to get a variety pack of Wagglers and Avons and try them to see what I can fish right and make work.

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Sounds like a plan, but remember: Avons are strictly for river fishing. Don't use them on a lake or pond.

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

Learning to throw a float with weight in that type of configuration will be hard enough compared to how I fish now.

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It's really not hard. You just have to lob it. Cast "up" as much as "out' and feather the line with your finger as the float approaches the water.

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

And what is the difference when fishing choppy water or is it just a matter of taking of a BBBB shot to let the bobber top stick out just a tiny bit more so it can be seen easier?

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Yep, that's all there is to it.

Okay, so regardless of what I try first, what is my final fine tune to set up the weights on the leader?

Float with bb's above and below if fishing a fixed float. Then the leader to the hook. Then the hard part:
Assume I am using a 6 foot leader. 12-14 inches from the hook I put a bb shot. Then about 24 inches up from there is the majority of the weight needed to get the float at the right depth. Then above that I put another bb shot about half way between the float and the larger weight mass.

Does that sound about right? If it is close then I can always fine tune it so I can actually cast it and not get a massive snarl every time.

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

Float with bb's above and below if fishing a fixed float. Then the leader to the hook. Then the hard part:
Assume I am using a 6 foot leader. 12-14 inches from the hook I put a bb shot. Then about 24 inches up from there is the majority of the weight needed to get the float at the right depth. Then above that I put another bb shot about half way between the float and the larger weight mass.

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Did you mean to say fixed float? That's not the way to rig a fixed float. For a fixed float, put 75-90% of the weight around the base of the float to lock it in place and then one or two SMALL droppers below.

For the slider rig, I'd use a shotting pattern very similar to the one shown in the diagram. The main bulk should be 2-3' above the hook. If using a longer rod, I'd probably set it at 4' above the hook. You just have to adjust it based on what's comfortable.

Also, if you're going to buy floats, go ahead and get some good split shot, too. Bass Pro and Wacker both sell the Dinsmore shot.

Well it sounds like a fixed float is gonna be my best starting point. I know how to do a sliding float but have to start somewhere. Will try both eventually. A sliding float will be harder to cast with a short rod for sure.

Any specific float you can recommend that the total weight will be right around 1/4 ounce total with with the float to set the float right?

I am also curious, with that much weight right at the float, do you lose some sensitivity or do the lower shot still allow you to see tip up bites as well as take downs?

Sorry if my terminology is terrible but I have never seen this done before. Even when we fished hard for panfish we never used a float like that. A simple tiny cork or tiny bobber was all we used if we ever used a float.

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

Any specific float you can recommend that the total weight will be right around 1/4 ounce total with with the float to set the float right?

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First of all, take a look at this thread:

http://www.crappie.com/crappie/panfi...tml#post645060

I think it's best to start out with a fixed waggler. One AAA shot is equal to about 1/32 oz. Also,

1 SSG = 2 AAA = 4 BB

The Thill floats are usually rated by how many BB shot it takes to cock them. Look for a 9BB to 14BB Thill waggler.

Drennans are pretty much the same but often use AAA as a guide, so look for Drennan wagglers in the 2 AAA to 4 AAA range.

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

I am also curious, with that much weight right at the float, do you lose some sensitivity or do the lower shot still allow you to see tip up bites as well as take downs?

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No, this shotting is ideal. You will see the lightest of bites.

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

Sorry if my terminology is terrible but I have never seen this done before. Even when we fished hard for panfish we never used a float like that. A simple tiny cork or tiny bobber was all we used if we ever used a float.

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No problem. I love to talk float fishing! :)

This is not exactly what you guys are talking about, but here goes... I fish for hybrid striped bass here in central MS in a tail race. We must make very long cast... Sometimes in excess of 100 yrds. (And yes, I have been to a football field to check the distances.) We use a float called a Launcher M3M. It is a 1 1/4 - 1 3/8 oz, can't remember exactly. We use long rods and braided line. They make several smaller versions that could be cast with a crappie rod or a stealhead rod. The launcher is made by the same people that make Flexcoat. It is the rod eye epoxy. Roger (flexcoat's owner) is very knowledgeable about long distance casting a cork. We throw the m3m with a leader and fly or small jig about 85 yrds. He has setups that cast much futher. Hope this helps.

Thanks Disco, that helps a ton. I will definately give this a try this spring ans summer on lakes I know that have crappie and bluegill. But will definately use it for trout because when the water goes clear they seem to get light on the bite and seeing even the lightest bite could make a huge difference.

I do have another question though and this one could be the real fish catcher. The gravel pits are deep and long. Will the wagglers work by rigging them up as a slip bobber and letting a bottom shot fall all the way to the bottom? I guess I can always set them up as a slip bobber running a bobber stop above with a good 4 foot leader below the first shot. The hardest part is finding the structure and finding the depth of the fish. I know they are there, they can't go anywhere. But finding them is often really hard.

Any suggestions on how to rig up to find the depth they are at and be able to cover a lot of water quickly? Only a coule weeks out of the year do they come in shallow into the side structure. And then they just laught at you while you beat your head in trying to get them to bite.

8fisherman, I wonder if that would work here for casting long distance ocean fishing? We don't always need to but it owuld be nice to be bale to hit the weed beds that are a good 50-100 yards out and not get a load of weeds. A float would work well if we can see it.

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

Will the wagglers work by rigging them up as a slip bobber and letting a bottom shot fall all the way to the bottom? I guess I can always set them up as a slip bobber running a bobber stop above with a good 4 foot leader below the first shot. The hardest part is finding the structure and finding the depth of the fish. I know they are there, they can't go anywhere. But finding them is often really hard.

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Yes, just rig it "slider style" like in the link. Two years ago, the world championship was won by a guy fishing the slider waggler.

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

Any suggestions on how to rig up to find the depth they are at and be able to cover a lot of water quickly?

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It's just trial and error. I always try to split the water into zones. For example, if it's 20' deep, set your float for 5' and see if you get any bites. If you get no bites, set the float for 10' and try again. Keep changing the depth, till you get action.

Any suggestions on how to rig up to find the depth they are at and be able to cover a lot of water quickly? Only a coule weeks out of the year do they come in shallow into the side structure. And then they just laught at you while you beat your head in trying to get them to bite.

8fisherman, I wonder if that would work here for casting long distance ocean fishing? We don't always need to but it owuld be nice to be bale to hit the weed beds that are a good 50-100 yards out and not get a load of weeds. A float would work well if we can see it.[/QUOTE]

Not sure if they were kidding, but I read of some dockshooters that attached a remote type fishfinder to a remote controlled boat to scout under docks. This sounds like it would work from shore also. No idea what a setup would cost.

As far as the casting 50-100 yrds, you can cast the rig I am talking about with a leader as long as your rod. You use a long sweeping overhead arch for the back cast and pause for a second to let the leader lay out behind you. With a little practice you can kinda load the rod and then "let'er rip". Just before the the float hits the water, thumb the spool a little and the leader and fly/jig will lay out in front of the launcher and will be a much softer landing. This can be done with a spinning or baitcaster/whatever reel. It takes some practice, but the results are incredible. You can get to places others can't. Again, Roger is the "king" and he LOVES to talk fishing. This is GREAT for schooling fish. We use a streamer type lure and burn/pop it through top water feeding stripes in the summer. It is explosive to say the least!:cool: We also slowly fish a 1/32 bucktail in the winter. I would post the link for Flexcoat but I am tech. challenged. :D The difference with this float and all others is you terminate both the mainline and leader to the top swivel and all the weight is in a bullet shaped lead on the other end. Very aerodynamic and it will FLYYYYYY! I am not a sales rep of any sort, but this is a great product. If you try it, let me know how it works over the weed beds.

BTW, Basspro has a Inshore Extreme rod that is 8'6", 3/8 - 2 oz wt., 12-20 lbs., that will cast up to the M3M very well. The larger Launchers are a little heavy for it. I think I paid around $100 for mine. Roger builds rod just for these rigs, but have your checkbook handy, a little pricey for my taste.

Good luck.

Hopefully a last couple questions:

TG waggler or bodied waggler or a different kind?

I found THIS Auction, is it a good variety that should have all I need for lots of different applications?

Also, the shot, I found the lead free coated shot, is that the best to get? I am pretty sure I have the weights figured out:
SSG 1.6 g
AAA .8
AB .6
BB .4
01 .3
04 .2
08 .1
Should I get a variety or just stick with BB for best results?

Even 10 bb shot is only .15oz. so rather light but again, not an issue if I use it right and learn to cast it right.

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

TG waggler or bodied waggler or a different kind?

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If you get the Thill floats, I'd just get the plain waggler. They are all balsa; therefore, they require more shot to balance which means you can cast them farther. The old Thill bodied wagglers had a birch stem, but it looks like Lindy may have changed the design.

If you get an English float, I don't think it matters that much. English waggers are generally straight without the "bulb" at the bottom of the float. If it has the "bulb", they refer to it as a "bodied" waggler.

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

I found THIS Auction, is it a good variety that should have all I need for lots of different applications?

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That looks like a pretty good deal, but there are a couple of caveats. First, be careful when ordering English floats. Some of the floats (like the Avons) require silicone tubing to attach them to the line, and you may not be able to get the correct size tubing here in the US. (This happened to another member here when he ordered floats from England.)

Second, don't try to learn too many floats at once. Just pick one or two sizes of waggler and really get to know how they work. If you fish rivers, do the same with the Avons.

Incidentally, one group of Americans who have really taken to the English floats are the salmon and steelhead guys. They generally fish an Avon-type float with a "centerpin" reel. Since you're in WA, you should be able to hook up with some of them.

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

Also, the shot, I found the lead free coated shot, is that the best to get? I am pretty sure I have the weights figured out:
SSG 1.6 g
AAA .8
AB .6
BB .4
01 .3
04 .2
08 .1
Should I get a variety or just stick with BB for best results?

Even 10 bb shot is only .15oz. so rather light but again, not an issue if I use it right and learn to cast it right.

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I would just get the variety because you will use them all. Wacker Baits carries a couple of assorted shot packs from Dinsmore. Also, I always use the least amount of shot possible. For example, if a float takes 12 BB to balance, I don't put 12 BB shot on the line. Instead, I use 2 or 3 SSG shot to lock the float in place with a couple of smaller shot down the line.

The video I posted in the other thread is a great example -- big shots at the base of the float, tiny shots down the line.

One final thing you might want to get are float adaptors for the wagglers. It's just a little silicone tube with a barrel swivel. You don't have to use them, but they're nice to have. Lindy sells them, but I might have a few extra I could send you. I'll check when I get back home.

Well this all foreign to me, I have never seen one used properly here let alone anywhere else. The only "stick" float they use for salmon and steelhead are the foam ones and then only because you can put a lot of weight down the line and it will float. I have seen wagglers used but they were all used as a tip up float that layed flat on the water and a bite was seen when the float tipped up. No this is not the right way but is how they are used here.

I have no clue what a plain Waggler is. I know I am showing my ignorance here but it is fact. Stick, bodied, stealth, Avon and whatever other term means nothing to me. I have spent hours trying to find out more about them and all I can find is how to rig them and fish them. Sticks and Avon work best in slow flowing water and in slightly choppy water. Bodied ones are best for still water with little if any wave action and very slow moving streams/rivers. Nothing tells me what is standard. I know the heavier the rating the longer the cast but it would be nice to have an idea of what weight is needed for basic distance.

This one is the one I am thinking of getting, 12bb and 9bb sizes.

If you recommend a different one, please give me a link.

And just to make sure I have this right:

Basic setup:

bb,bb-float-bb,bb,bb---------bb---------bb(01,04)---------hook (balance with 01, 04 for right height in water)

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

I have no clue what a plain Waggler is. I know I am showing my ignorance here but it is fact. Stick, bodied, stealth, Avon and whatever other term means nothing to me. I have spent hours trying to find out more about them and all I can find is how to rig them and fish them. Sticks and Avon work best in slow flowing water and in slightly choppy water. Bodied ones are best for still water with little if any wave action and very slow moving streams/rivers. Nothing tells me what is standard. I know the heavier the rating the longer the cast but it would be nice to have an idea of what weight is needed for basic distance.

This one is the one I am thinking of getting, 12bb and 9bb sizes.

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When I said "plain waggler" (as opposed to bodied waggler) I meant the TG waggler, the exact same one you linked. The two sizes you suggest should be fine. It's easy to get confused with all the different types of floats. That's why I suggested focusing on one for now. I could use nothing but the TG waggler for the rest of my fishing career and catch loads of fish.

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

And just to make sure I have this right:

Basic setup:

bb,bb-float-bb,bb,bb---------bb---------bb(01,04)---------hook (balance with 01, 04 for right height in water)

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That's basically right, but I wouldn't put BB shot down the line for the float you're talking about. For the 9 BB waggler, I would put 2 AAA (or 1 SSG) shot on either side of the base of the float. Then, I would see how that sits in the water. (The shot at the base of the float should sink the float up to the bottom of the red part of the tip.) Finally, I would add the smaller "dropper" shot down the line.

Remember the video: two or three "locking" shot at the base of the float with two or three smaller "dropper" shot below. Keep it simple. I cannot tell you how many fish I have caught using the exact same float rig that he uses.

Feel free to PM me for more details.

Just to reiterate -- put most of the weight around the base of the float and very little down the line. The more weight you have down the line, the more difficult it is to cast.

I liken casting a waggler rig to flying a kite. If the tail of a kite is too heavy, the kite will not fly right. If there is too much weight down the line from a waggler, the float will not cast right.

Have you ever used the Crystal Wagglers? They seem a lot more stealthy and might work well here in my clear water when the fish run from anything they see on the water.

Just curious right now, I have to learn to use a basic one first.

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

Have you ever used the Crystal Wagglers?

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Never have, but my waters aren't that clear. In really clear or shallow water, they would be ideal.

I have also been meaning to ask someone, what is a centerpin reel? A spinning reel?

If it is we call them coffee grinders. My uncle says it is because they are only good for grinding coffee but he probably couldn't land a fish on one now if he tried.

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

what is a centerpin reel? A spinning reel?

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No, a centerpin is an English float reel that has made its way to the US. It looks like a fly reel, but the spool spins freely like a baitcaster in free spool. There is no mechanical drag of any kind. Instead, you just touch the spool with your thumb or finger to apply pressure.

Centerpins are designed to fish floats in flowing waters. As the float drifts down the river, line is pulled off the reel at the exact same speed as the current. There is no better way to float fish in rivers and streams.

Most of the centerpinners in this country are salmon and steelhead guys in the midwest and the Pacific northwest. There are about four of us in Atlanta that fish with them. The other guys use them for trout. I use mine for whatever I can catch -- mostly trout and carp.

Here are some pics:

http://www.fishusa.com/Reels-CenterP...4F52BF06DD4B7B

Okay, I know what you mean now, have even seen a couple of them. Not sure I will ever get that desperate to get one just to have a free spinning drift though. :rolleyes:

Will stick with what I know and maybe someday I will decide to give them a try.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by fish_4_all

Not sure I will ever get that desperate to get one just to have a free spinning drift though. :rolleyes:

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A bonus of using the 'pin is they are incredibly fun to play fish with. With no mechanical drag, it's just you and your thumb against the fish. The last time I used mine, I caught a couple of 7-8 pound river carp -- what a workout!

I understand, though. The 'pin is not for everybody.

Fish 4 All,

Check out this post on the main board. http://www.crappie.com/crappie/main-...ip-bobber.html I've been working on this for the last few days with great results. Some variation of this might get you where you want to be with the weights you want to use. I used some of the info I learned from y'all's conversation about wagglers and adapted it to the way I fish. By using the bottom slot on the spring float instead of feeding the line through a slip float with a bead, I am able to use much lighter jigs to reach greater depths.

Try this setup. The "Pinmin" hook is my weight. With the two jigs the quill float is perfectly balanced and will cast a mile. I even rig my quill float "Slipbobber" style.
It works for me. :cool::cool::cool::cool:


I also love the "Waggler" type floats with this setup.

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...hoysbobber.jpg


http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...loopjigrig.jpg