Rivets for rib boat question

I have an old "pond" boat that I want to fix. I have to put a new transom board on it and in order to do so I will have to remove the transom brace that is in my way which is riveted to the bottom of the boat. And then I will have to put it back. First of all can I just drill those rivets out and replace? I read where it someone said to not drill them out but I really dont understand why. Also where is a good place to find assorted closed end aluminum rivets and also aluminum washers in North MS/Memphis area? Thank you.

TRY ANY FASTENALL STORE,NEAR YOU.

Fastenall for rivits....what i do is gently grind head off and then take a punch a little smaller then rivit and tap out with a hammer.

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Remove the rivets/bolts/screws from the old transom board. The transom support will move enough out of the way to remove/replace the board. I've replaced 3.

If you do remove the support look for the extra large pan headed bolts. Can't remember where I found the ones I used on the transom. I had to buy a box of 50.

Try it like Cane said. Helped neighbor replace one couple of years ago and that's how we did it. Where we had to cut out rivets in transom just replaced with stainless bolts, washers and lock nuts.

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Originally Posted by canebreaker

Remove the rivets/bolts/screws from the old transom board. The transom support will move enough out of the way to remove/replace the board. I've replaced 3.

If you do remove the support look for the extra large pan headed bolts. Can't remember where I found the ones I used on the transom. I had to buy a box of 50.

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Thanks. Yep, I have decided to go back with stainless pan head bolts. However, on this little boat (10') it is impossible to get the wood behind the support without removing it unfortunately. Thank you

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Originally Posted by Stickers

Thanks. Yep, I have decided to go back with stainless pan head bolts. However, on this little boat (10') it is impossible to get the wood behind the support without removing it unfortunately. Thank you

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If your going through bottom of hull, find you some stainless elevator bolts. They have a larger, thin, flat head. You should find a hand full at a garage door place or if one close a shop that repairs big truck trailers will have some. Clean the spot where head will hit bottom of boat. Clean it real good and when ready to install put a coat of JB weld on it just before you tighten it up.

The wood on the ones I rebuilt were thick plywood. I had to cut it to get them out. I traced on new 1/2" plywood, cut. 2 layers of paint, slid in 1 layer of plywood in at a time. Added a 3rd layer of plywood across top, above support for motor mount. Replaced the original aluminum mount plate. The 3 layers of plywood was 1/8 to 3/16" thinner than the original boards.

Charlie, I needed some elevator bolts 4- 3/8X 3 1/2" when rebuilding the floor of my camper. I couldn't find them that long anywhere. Ended up welding all thread to the ones I bought.
Stickers, here's a chart for average cost for the elevator bolts. https://www.boltdepot.com/Elevator_b...-8_1_4-20.aspx
Here's the best deal I could find. ELEVATOR BOLTS - STAINLESS STEEL, 1/4-20 by 3/4" BAGS OF 100 | eBay

The problem with using stainless screws and bolts on alum. is corrosion. Its called galvanic corrosion. Over tine the alum. will corrode. Best bet is go with solid alum. rivets.

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Originally Posted by jimfish

The problem with using stainless screws and bolts on alum. is corrosion. Its called galvanic corrosion. Over tine the alum. will corrode. Best bet is go with solid alum. rivets.

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That's right.


BRM

"Galvanic corrosion. Over time the aluminum will corrode."
Drill the 1/4" holes to 3/8", use nylon stove bolts and nuts. Epoxy around the inside of the head then a layer over the head after tightened.

Some of the bolts on my son's tractor are oddball sizes. Some nylon bolts are closer to the thread size and are working great.

I went back with stainless panhead bolts and put silicone under the head. Did just fine and doesnt leak. As far as the corrosion it must take a long time. My big Express boat has had them in it for 25 years and I havent seen any sign of corrosion. Then again this little 10 ft. boat's aluminum is paper thin also, ha.

Maybe it a dry corrosion. These security doors with a mix of steel and aluminum parts with steel screws/bolts are the ones I changed a few of. You want to change out the style of a door and end up having to buy a new door because of a big hole where a little screw goes. Seems like it's the steel that has the corrosion problem most of the time.