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I have trolled for 20 years everything from minnow rigs to jigs to roadrunners but never crankbaits. I get more time in summer to fish now and want to start pushing cranks. I have seen several ways from a 1-5 oz weight and different leaders. I need help on how and what I need to have to do this any help will be greatly appreciated. Would rather push than pull thanks the more details the better. I fish in Mississippi
I can only tell ya what I do, and what my buds do :
My buddy's method:
14 to 20ft rods - line counter reels - 30lb test braid main line - 2oz trolling weight - swivel - 5ft mono leader of 6lb test - duo-lock snap - crank ... @ 1.8mph via 24v trolling motor & electronics with map cards (for following contours).
My method:
14ft rods - baitcast reels - braid or heavy mono - 1/2 to 3/4oz barrel sinker - large plastic bead - duo-lock snap - 3-5ft mono leader of 6lb test - duo-lock snap - crank ... @ 0.8-1.2mph via 12v trolling motor & Down Image unit (w/o map card).
But, just to be clear ... I have very little personal experience (in my boat) with pushing cranks, and am limited by my trolling motor & electronics. But, I have caught Crappie with my method, and I'm hoping to expand my use of it next year. Most of my "pushing" is done with jigs.
I can't elaborate on how my buds determine the depth of their cranks, because they never told me, but I'm sure others will when they reply & give you their methods.
I'm with his buddy's method. I use 2oz trolling weights and the three way swivel has a split ring and duo lock snap so the weight can be changed easier. Stiffer rods to handle the weight are used. I use shorter rods than mentioned, mostly cause I'm too cheap to buy them. My presentation is more of a 45* angle instead of straight out the front. Best part is that you can turn on a dime with the shorter rigs. I used to push 4 while my buddy in the back pulled 6, and we were both busy. I used yellow braid and beginning at 10' I would magic marker a dot every 2' so I could control the depth. Backreeling a spinning reel would also work to get you started but the baitcasters cut down on the line twist.
Depth chart for pushing.....I use a three oz weight.....adjust speed to keep line no more than a 45 degree angle.
Oops, here is the depth chart Attachment 254425
I didn't want to invest in a ton of extra poles, etc. to start pulling cranks so I went to the "pushing" method as well. Most of the time I am pushing minnows/jigs but during the summer I also like to switch to crankbaits sometimes. My setup includes all 14ft Ozark rods and have had no issues with their trolling rods handling the extra weight. I mainly use 3oz weights (bought from ScottV on this site). As far as speed I really just vary it depending on what seems to be working, anywhere from 0.9-1.6...just a lot of guessing on my part really since I am still pretty new to the crankbait scene. I have fished with other guys that use the pulling method but with my boat setup and equipment I just push when using crankbaits. Hope that helps a little.
I use some 14 foot glass poles with 2 oz weights and Arkie 220 series cranks. I use the 45 degree method as well. Speed varies from .7 up to 1.8. As you can see here, lots of variables. I think the main thing is to make sure your poles can withstand the pressure of pushing.
I use Arkie 350s and 220s They both come in these colors Attachment 254428
planning on trying this next year. have trolled out back but not pushing. what are pro's and con's of pushing against pulling? thanks
Can make tighter turns......can run any kind of crankbait even rattletraps because depth is controled by the three oz weight.
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I am also going to give this a try in 2017. I have been slowly buying a few crankbaits. Great info guys.
The Southern Crappie 143T rods are by far the best I've ever used for pushing. They are 14 footers that are rated to carry 2 oz of weight but I've used 3 oz weights with much less rod bend that other rods I have used and owned. I thinks a huge variable for pushing cranks is using cranks that are shallow runners, even flat baits like rattletraps. These give you much better depth control.
Doug ... you ever use "jerkbaits" (minnow shaped cranks) for Pushing ??Quote:
Originally Posted by mrdux
Yes, I've used Rapala minnows in floaters and countdown. I recently ran upon an insane deal on some off-shore stick baits that are about 4" long that will be death pushing. 45 baits for $39 on one of those instant here and gone deals. It only lasted a couple of hours.I have some super shallow shad raps cranks from my green carp days that work well. I want a bait that puts the least amount of strain on the line and rod when pushing. I know some folks do OK on 200 bandits and Arkie 220s and I have also when I want the bait a little deeper with more wobble.Quote:
Originally Posted by CrappiePappy
Does pulling cranks and chains in windy conditions work okay?
Mike
I don't pull chains nor do I know anybody personally who does. Too much hard work done to put out cover to have it all ripped up by chains IMHO.Quote:
Originally Posted by Speck Beck
Lot of that depends on where you are dux, pull through brush from time to time but never have I pulled up the cahains with a brush top tangled to the end of it, drift sock is a whole nuther ballgame.Quote:
Originally Posted by mrdux
Think his question is would you pull them while pulling or pushing cranks, not a need for it, if the wind is blowing the back end around some turn the steering wheel to compinsate, if the wind is blowing so hard you can't keep the speed down fish into the wind or put her on the trailer. Cranking affords you more days on the water, specially hot days and I just don't fool with it if the wind is going to be a real pain.
Ky. River just one big long brush pile on both sides from one end to the other in the pool I fish in, and use chains that lets me stop out from the brush in which I use a long pole to reach the spots without hopefully disturbing the fish and take off without pulling up the chains to move to next spot. I haven't had any problems hanging into the brush. The chains just seam to slide thru okay.
This year I started pulling and pushing cranks for suspended crappie at the lake in deeper water from a pontoon and want to slow down from 2.3 to 1.8 mph using the chains to adjust my speed with the wind. I will try the bucket method don't want to disturb any natural or man made crappie habitat but don't think the chains would cause any problems.
Chains would likely not hurt heavy, thick, or solid wood structures/cover ... but, the more flimsy limbs and branches would likely be destroyed from the weight & motion of the chains dragging over them. :twocents
Much of the structure that is placed in KY and Barkley Lakes are of what we call "bucket beds". These would be easy to turn over on their sides and essentially render them almost useless. As somebody who has spent countless hours placing these, I want to see them last as long as possible so everyone can benefit from them.
I just think there are much better, less damaging ways to slow a boat down. I can see if chains were used on a stump flat where they aren't likely to pull stumps up, they could be useful if no other means of slowing the boat down are available.
You are right can't argue with that.
Mike
I agree. I'm not one to tell someone how to go fishing but I put out 4 big trailer loads this fall and I hope current and deterioration are the things that make them disappear!Quote:
Originally Posted by mrdux
I have trolling weights designed for pushing!
Monk's Crappie :: MonksCrappie.com :: TROLLING WEIGHT
Monk
will have to give this a go. always will try something new if guys that are successful say this is how to do it.
What's the purpose of the long wire on this trolling weight ... ??Quote:
Originally Posted by monkscrappie
Rickie
Would be interested in knowing that, myself. Other members make them in the torpedo shape, with swivels ... and you can buy them from Crawdads Fishing Tackle with loop eyes on each end. But, the only things I've seen that are similar to the Monk's version, are the ones for bottom bouncing rigs.Quote:
Originally Posted by rnvinc
Thanks for all the help. Got an idea on poles and weights. Question is if I am pushing then I assume size of crank does not matter since weight will set depth. Question is how much leader on line to crankbait and what type of quick connect swivel y'all use
Leader length is also a personal "choice" .... some use 3ft, while others go with 5ft leaders. I've used both lengths, and caught fish on both.Quote:
Originally Posted by btillman
I use barrel sinkers, that are "slip" weights (hole thru center), and they are held on the main line by a duo-lock snap tied on the end of the main line (with a large plastic bead between snap & weight, to keep weight from damaging knot). Only my jighead on the leader, with loop knot on opposite end, which is placed into the duo-lock snap. A good swivel of about 15-20lb test could be used in place of the snap, when using cranks. But, I will defer that to those that push cranks more than I do, as I'm still in the process of learning/using the "pushing" technique with jigs. I cast jigs as my primary method, and use the pushing technique as a "backup" plan.
Those bottom bouncers with the wire are what a lot of walleye fishermen use for worm harness rigs up north. The wire ticks the bottom but keeps the weight and rig up off the bottom.Quote:
Originally Posted by rnvinc
Why is a bucket bed useless on it's side, no way they would staying standing up here with the waves and water depth (shallow at some point during the year) anyway? My experience with both chains and socks shows me time and time again that the socks are way more destructive than the chains are, very rare the chains get hung and when in any kind of structure the socks tend to hang quite often.Quote:
Originally Posted by mrdux
Rees, I'm not going to argue the point. You do as you please, others will do as they please as long as both sides of the point are doing what is legal in their particular location.
Line ties to short end and 2-3 ft leader wit crank bait ties to long end-less tangles and truer rung baits.Quote:
Originally Posted by rnvinc
Monk
:popcorn:popcorn
When pushing crank baits, and the speed you have to push won't the crank be under the boat? looks like the fish would spook?
I could see a slow speed being out far enough not to spook the fish. Yall talk about the 45deg. angle, it just seems that would put the crank under the boat. Am I missing something here?.....
I push from the side of the boat with 14 12 10 ft rods.
Mike
Boat don't seem to bother them and I "push" off the sides as well, caught a bunch this past summer on a 5 foot rod sticking straight off the side of the boat and literally 5 foot of line out, it was crazy, just pick the rod up and lift the fish in the boat.Quote:
Originally Posted by crappie cowboy
Please explain. Do you have a troll motor on The side of the boat?Quote:
Originally Posted by Speck Beck
If you're pushing cranks at 1.8mph ... you'd have to have quite a bit of weight on the line to keep the line angle at 45deg, so I doubt the crank would be under the boat.Quote:
Originally Posted by crappie cowboy
The one time I pushed cranks in another boat, they were letting out 50+ feet of line (w/2oz weights & Bandit 300's) just to get the cranks down to 10-12ft deep. If their lines were at a 45deg angle, the crank would have been running nearly 30ft deep.
I think he's referring to "rod placement" (out the sides) rather than trolling motor placement.Quote:
Originally Posted by skunked again
What size crank do you use with the 2/3 depth chart? 200? 300? A 300 on a 5' leader would run a bit deep than a 200?
If I used a 200 bandit with a 3 oz with15' of line out = 10' deep?