Help with spider rig.

I'm new to spider rigging and had a couple questions about the rigs. I've noticed that when fishing a double jig (or hook) rig, most guys put the weight (usually an egg sinker) fixed BETWEEN the 2 baits. I was wondering what might be the advantage of putting the weight there and not above the baits, or even below? And also, wouldn't you want the line to slide through the sinker and not have it fixed in place? Wouldn't that keep the fish from feeling the weight a little better? Or am I all mixed up on this rig? Does anyone have an opinion?

I use and like the Caps and Colman rig although I tie my own rigs. You can do a search using the advanced search tool at the top of this page and get information and see diagrams. Hope this helps

Here on Kentucky lake, they have commercially tied and sold minnow rigs for as long as I can remember, 40 years for sure. They have always been available both ways. I like them with the weight on bottom spider rigging, when fish are hugging the bottom of the lake. I just let it fall to the bottom and reel up a half round.

I tie my own C&C rigs with weight in middle. I tie a swivel at top not a 3 way, I pull about a foot of line through and tie a clinch knot, not the improve clinch, then cut off tag to about 6-8 inches and tie in a #1 duo lock snap. Then I measure off 20 inches of line from the swivel for main line, cut it off slide on egg sinker then a small bead then a #8 swivel then tie a 8-10 in dropper with another #1 Duo Lock snap. 2 things I believe the weight sliding does keep them from feeling the weight when they hit up on bottom hook. And I use snaps because I can change out baits with out having to stop remove rig wind up then unwind new rig and hook up just to change a bait. And the fish don't seem to mind at all.

I agree with Cray.

That sounds like my kinda rig Cray. I also use snaps on everything - jigs, hooks, crankbaits, etc . I figure they give the same swinging effect as a loop knot and they sure make changing baits easy. Thanks for the advice guys! I still wonder why pros like Capps and Coleman go with a fixed weight? Maybe for less knots in the rig? Or maybe the fish just don't mind it?

What a Cray does is about the same as me except on the bottom instead of snapping directly to the jig or hook I have some jigs and hooks on mono leaders with loop knots to slip on the snaps

Attachment 226786
This is how I tie my spider rigs. Three way swivel 3/4 oz weight

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Originally Posted by cray

I tie my own C&C rigs with weight in middle.

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are there any photos of these rig on the site?

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Originally Posted by cause

are there any photos of these rig on the site?

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http://www.crappie.com/crappie/attac...ons-5-6-3-.jpg

(borrowed from a 2012 article by "Special K" )

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Now, the original Capps/Coleman double rig was more like this :

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...psncoleman.jpg

The principle is the same, but the barrel sinker just has the line looped through it enough times to hold it on there ... whereas the "improved" version adds a swivel on the line to hold the barrel sinker in place.

... cp :kewl

I believe its Grizzy jig company that sells the caps and coleman already made up

I use a trolling sinker with snap on each end so I can change weights. Don`t like the egg sinker with 5 pases because it chaffs the small floro I use.

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Originally Posted by captankangaroo

I use a trolling sinker with snap on each end so I can change weights. Don`t like the egg sinker with 5 pases because it chaffs the small floro I use.

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Yes, it can be a strain on the line to be wrapped around the barrel sinker like that. And the sinker CAN still come off if/when you break off the bottom bait ... it's done that on me, before.

I don't use double rigs, myself ... too cumbersome, and too likely to wrap/tangle when going slow or (especially) in the net.

... cp :kewl

10 4 what crappiePappy said RR

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Originally Posted by CrappiePappy

http://www.crappie.com/crappie/attac...ons-5-6-3-.jpg

(borrowed from a 2012 article by "Special K" )

************************************************** *****

Now, the original Capps/Coleman double rig was more like this :

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...psncoleman.jpg

The principle is the same, but the barrel sinker just has the line looped through it enough times to hold it on there ... whereas the "improved" version adds a swivel on the line to hold the barrel sinker in place.

... cp :kewl

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That improved C&C is the one I've been using with Cray's idea of using the tag end on the top hook and the snaps added. It's been working really well so far. Thanks for all the advise guys. If the weather breaks and this snow melts, maybe I can get a few rigs in the WATER!!!

Good afternoon guys,

I am new to spider rigging and have actually not even attempted to try it yet,but I have been gathering all the essential tools. I have been lurking on this site and trying to come to some sort of compromise as to how's the best way to rig. I have watched several videos and listened to several discussions here. I guess one question is if I wanted to fish a minnow on top and a jig on bottom, Capps/Coleman rig minus the minnow hook on bottom, would you avoid the egg sinker altogether with say a 1/8 oz or 1/4 oz jig head? I watched a video on YouTube with Tim Blackley and Carl Kalonka on Lake Washington in Mississippi and it appears they had some single jigs rigged with a variety of lures fishing in a few feet of water. Have any of you been successful rigging with a single jig and if so what size weights do you use?

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Originally Posted by Slabbo

Good afternoon guys,

I am new to spider rigging and have actually not even attempted to try it yet,but I have been gathering all the essential tools. I have been lurking on this site and trying to come to some sort of compromise as to how's the best way to rig. I have watched several videos and listened to several discussions here. I guess one question is if I wanted to fish a minnow on top and a jig on bottom, Capps/Coleman rig minus the minnow hook on bottom, would you avoid the egg sinker altogether with say a 1/8 oz or 1/4 oz jig head? I watched a video on YouTube with Tim Blackley and Carl Kalonka on Lake Washington in Mississippi and it appears they had some single jigs rigged with a variety of lures fishing in a few feet of water. Have any of you been successful rigging with a single jig and if so what size weights do you use?

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I think you'd be better served to keep the center weight, regardless whether you have a jig/jig - jig/hook - hook/hook setup on your "rigs". That weight "can" help you dislodge a snagged jig or hook. It also helps keep the lines +/- vertical at Spider Rigging speeds.

I, personally, don't use the "two bait" rigs ... and simply run a single jig under a 1/2oz or 3/4oz egg weight, on a 12-18" leader of 6lb test mono. Main lines on my long poles are heavy braid. The braid is there simply because it was on there when I bought the reels (used). The egg sinkers are on the main (braid) line, and held there by the duo-lock snap tied on the end of the braid. Then a jig (or hook) on a leader can easily be snapped into the duo-lock, since there's a loop knot on the opposite end of the leader from the jig. Break-offs or changing jigs are quickly resolved.

I'm pretty new at this, myself ... so I decided to keep it simple, for now. And I don't really "spider rig" per se ... as I only have 3 long rods (14'). I mostly do what most people refer to as "pushing" jigs ... since the rods are out the front & have added weight on the line, plus I'm moving at anywhere from 0.5mph - 0.8mph as a rule ...so my lines are generally angled back at about 45 degrees. Most people consider "spider rigging" as using more rods, and moving much slower ... with their main lines nearly vertical from the rod tip to the water.

I am enjoying using the long rods & "pushing" jigs, and have been fairly successful doing it. I still "prefer" to cast a jig, as I've been doing that for over 40yrs ... and the long pole fishing is just an option, right now. If/when I decide to make the long pole methods my primary way to fish ... I'm going to have to pony up some serious $$$, since I would likely purchase a variable speed 24V trolling motor - extra battery - lake map chip for my depth finder - two more rod holders - and several more 14' rod/reel setups. :yikes I'm not quite ready for that big of a commitment, though. I'm doing OK with the setups I currently have & use.

... cp :kewl

Using long poles has a reason, getting the baits "away" from boat, so to not spook the fish. The extra weight is to keep the lines vertical, straight down. When trolling with no extra weight, the jigs wind up under the boat. Long lining lets the jigs run way behind he boat, same reasoning.

Slabbo I would also advise to go slow in regard of the number of poles. IT takes some time to get used to controlling 3-4 poles per side and if you figure wind,stumps and the occasional catfish you can get in a mess in a hurry. I tried 3 poles , no chains and a lot of wind on reelfoot the first time and just about gave it up. Then I let some common sense in, hard for me to come by, and went to 2 poles and slowed way down. Now I feel confident in using 4 poles to a side. I also use chains or drift socks. Makes all the difference in the world. Good luck and hang in there. Remember it's only money and I haven't seen a hearse with luggage racks yet. :Rofl

Boa3, sounds like Great advice for the boat control and equipment issues, I've talked to several folks that gave me some of the same advice. Thanks!

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Originally Posted by Slabbo

Good afternoon guys,

I am new to spider rigging and have actually not even attempted to try it yet,but I have been gathering all the essential tools. I have been lurking on this site and trying to come to some sort of compromise as to how's the best way to rig. I have watched several videos and listened to several discussions here. I guess one question is if I wanted to fish a minnow on top and a jig on bottom, Capps/Coleman rig minus the minnow hook on bottom, would you avoid the egg sinker altogether with say a 1/8 oz or 1/4 oz jig head? I watched a video on YouTube with Tim Blackley and Carl Kalonka on Lake Washington in Mississippi and it appears they had some single jigs rigged with a variety of lures fishing in a few feet of water. Have any of you been successful rigging with a single jig and if so what size weights do you use?

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Washington is for the most part pretty shallow and fish will suspend in the 3-4 ft range a lot thus the single hook set up. I fish single hook on bottom a lot in less tha 7-8 ft of water. I usually run. 1/2 oz weight and 90% of the time I have a 1/8 poney head with jig and tipped with minnow. Water deeper than 7 2 hook rig with 1/2 to 3/4 weight, jig on bottom bare hook or teaser on top with minnow.

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Originally Posted by cause

are there any photos of these rig on the site?

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Attachment 228628Attachment 228629Attachment 228630 this is how we fished 40 yrs. ago .

The Capps n Coleman rig is the one most everyone copies if they tie their own. The length and size line between the hooks/jigs and weight will vary.
Check state and lake rules for the amount of hooks/jigs that can be used per rod (rod limit) or the total a person can use.
One rig I tie has a loop on both ends. One loop will catch the snap swivel on the main line on the rod. The other loop will go through a sinker at the bottom. Up to 6 hooks/jigs are spaced as close as 1 ft apart. 6 baits and loops are 8 ft long. I use a string stopper on the main line and set it at the water surface. If it's 5 ft from the swivel the first bait will be about 6 ft deep and the bottom bait will be at 12. The speed and sinker weight will change the depth of each bait. Most of the time I use a 2 oz bank sinker while the motor is at speed 1. With a little wind or speed 2 I'll go to a 3 or 4 oz sinker. If the fish want a fast bait I'll go to a higher speed and up to an 8 oz sinker.

I just had an idea the other day, and wondering if it has been tried. First off, I only use a single hook/jig to avoid the inevitable tangle. I thought about putting the egg sinker on the main line with a split shot and bead above and below to hold it in place, with a barrel swivel on the end. Then tie several leaders with the jig and a snap on the end. My thought was that a line break would save the weight in some cases, plus make it easier/quicker to stow and go to another spot. Would it work any better? Would also make it easier to store on a pool noodle!

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Originally Posted by ET Fish

I just had an idea the other day, and wondering if it has been tried. First off, I only use a single hook/jig to avoid the inevitable tangle. I thought about putting the egg sinker on the main line with a split shot and bead above and below to hold it in place, with a barrel swivel on the end. Then tie several leaders with the jig and a snap on the end. My thought was that a line break would save the weight in some cases, plus make it easier/quicker to stow and go to another spot. Would it work any better? Would also make it easier to store on a pool noodle!

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ETF ... that's basically what I do on my long rod outfits. But, all I do is run the main line through the egg sinker, then a bead, then tie a duo-lock snap on the tag end of my main line. My pool noodle "holders" have jigheads on mono leaders, with a loop knot on the opposite end ... so I can just clip it in the duo-lock snap & I'm good to go. (note: I always use a bead with a hole big enough to slip over the knot easily, as it's only function is to keep the sinker from rubbing against the knot & possibly weakening it)

Then, when it comes time to break the rods down & put them in their rod socks for transport ... I just clip the duo-lock snap to the reel or foot of one of the guides, after uncoupling all three sections, and reel the line snug & slip them into the "socks". No hooks to hang up in the "socks" !!

... cp :kewl

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Originally Posted by CrappiePappy

ETF ... that's basically what I do on my long rod outfits. But, all I do is run the main line through the egg sinker, then a bead, then tie a duo-lock snap on the tag end of my main line. My pool noodle "holders" have jigheads on mono leaders, with a loop knot on the opposite end ... so I can just clip it in the duo-lock snap & I'm good to go. (note: I always use a bead with a hole big enough to slip over the knot easily, as it's only function is to keep the sinker from rubbing against the knot & possibly weakening it)

Then, when it comes time to break the rods down & put them in their rod socks for transport ... I just clip the duo-lock snap to the reel or foot of one of the guides, after uncoupling all three sections, and reel the line snug & slip them into the "socks". No hooks to hang up in the "socks" !!

... cp :kewl

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Great advice! Thank you! Now, I ask forgiveness for hijacking this thread!!

I didn't want to start a new post since my question is similar to this one so here goes. I am new to both this website and spider rigging. I've always just done the basic cast/jig for my crappie. My boat is pretty well set up with all the gear I need. My question is about actually rigging up the poles for the easiest non tangle system. I recently saw the Mr. Crappie Troll tech rigs on TV and they seemed pretty easy to use. I will attach the link for the rigs from bass pro so you can see them. Would buying some of these be a good start to get me trolling? Any advice is much appreciated.

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Originally Posted by jscheller

I didn't want to start a new post since my question is similar to this one so here goes. I am new to both this website and spider rigging. I've always just done the basic cast/jig for my crappie. My boat is pretty well set up with all the gear I need. My question is about actually rigging up the poles for the easiest non tangle system. I recently saw the Mr. Crappie Troll tech rigs on TV and they seemed pretty easy to use. I will attach the link for the rigs from bass pro so you can see them. Would buying some of these be a good start to get me trolling? Any advice is much appreciated.

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My personal opinion ... I wouldn't start with any double bait rigs. There's just too much hardware on the "pre-rigged" setups, IMHO.

Whether you're going to be using jigs or hook/sinker rig for your Spider Rigging .... the simplest setup will be less cumbersome. I'm fairly new to the spider rigging/ jig pushing styles of fishing, myself ... and believe me when I say you REALLY don't want a bunch of double rigs hanging out there if/when you run into a brush pile you didn't know was there :banghead :Rofl

I wouldn't start with anything lighter than 3/8oz for your trolling weight. You probably already have a selection of jigs, hooks, swivels or clips, plastic beads, & line of a smaller pound test than the main lines on your spider rigging outfits ... so a trolling weight would be all you need. Your choice of "styles" for those trolling weights, whether they be egg sinkers, worm slip sinkers, or either style of the torpedo shaped in-line trolling weights (slip sinker style or with a metal tie eye loop on each end).

And if you don't already have a supply of trolling weights ... I'd compare prices between store brand bags of them and Crawdad's Fishing Tackle ( Fishing Weights ) and there may even be some site members that pour lead sinkers.

And if you rig your trolling weight on your main line, and use a lighter pound test leader line ... you won't be losing very many trolling weights from getting snagged & having to break off. All you will usually lose is your jig or hook. That's why I keep a selection of pre-rigged jigheads on leaders, wrapped around a section of pool noodle ... so I can quickly take the busted leader off & slip on another one, and be back fishing with that rod in less than a minute.

... cp :kewl

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Originally Posted by jscheller

I didn't want to start a new post since my question is similar to this one so here goes. I am new to both this website and spider rigging. I've always just done the basic cast/jig for my crappie. My boat is pretty well set up with all the gear I need. My question is about actually rigging up the poles for the easiest non tangle system. I recently saw the Mr. Crappie Troll tech rigs on TV and they seemed pretty easy to use. I will attach the link for the rigs from bass pro so you can see them. Would buying some of these be a good start to get me trolling? Any advice is much appreciated.

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There are tons of pre rigged rigs out there, grizzly jig, caps and colman, mr. crappie, arkie. They all work you just have to try them to see whay you like. I prefer to make my own but like i said its all what you prefer.

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Originally Posted by CrappiePappy

My personal opinion ... I wouldn't start with any double bait rigs. There's just too much hardware on the "pre-rigged" setups, IMHO.

Whether you're going to be using jigs or hook/sinker rig for your Spider Rigging .... the simplest setup will be less cumbersome. I'm fairly new to the spider rigging/ jig pushing styles of fishing, myself ... and believe me when I say you REALLY don't want a bunch of double rigs hanging out there if/when you run into a brush pile you didn't know was there :banghead :Rofl

I wouldn't start with anything lighter than 3/8oz for your trolling weight. You probably already have a selection of jigs, hooks, swivels or clips, plastic beads, & line of a smaller pound test than the main lines on your spider rigging outfits ... so a trolling weight would be all you need. Your choice of "styles" for those trolling weights, whether they be egg sinkers, worm slip sinkers, or either style of the torpedo shaped in-line trolling weights (slip sinker style or with a metal tie eye loop on each end).

And if you don't already have a supply of trolling weights ... I'd compare prices between store brand bags of them and Crawdad's Fishing Tackle ( Fishing Weights ) and there may even be some site members that pour lead sinkers.

And if you rig your trolling weight on your main line, and use a lighter pound test leader line ... you won't be losing very many trolling weights from getting snagged & having to break off. All you will usually lose is your jig or hook. That's why I keep a selection of pre-rigged jigheads on leaders, wrapped around a section of pool noodle ... so I can quickly take the busted leader off & slip on another one, and be back fishing with that rod in less than a minute.

... cp :kewl

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That's great advice right there! Use the K.I.S.S. method!!

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Originally Posted by CrappiePappy

http://www.crappie.com/crappie/attac...ons-5-6-3-.jpg

(borrowed from a 2012 article by "Special K" )

************************************************** *****

Now, the original Capps/Coleman double rig was more like this :

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...psncoleman.jpg

The principle is the same, but the barrel sinker just has the line looped through it enough times to hold it on there ... whereas the "improved" version adds a swivel on the line to hold the barrel sinker in place.

... cp :kewl

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This is a good rig, but the three way swivel isn't necessary. Less knots if you tie on a snap swivel at the top and tie a Fas Snap in a loop knot for the top drop. I let my weight slide up and down on the rig with a bead and barrel swivel, and tie my bottom drop off the bottom of the barrel swivel like the first example.

You must slide the Fas Snap on the line before you tie on the top snap swivel. Then just make a loop knot with the Fas Snap as long as you want the drop to be. The Fas Snap lets you change from hooks, to jigs, to teasers and let's you change colors without changing the rig. I use one on my bottom drop as well.

I use the Fas Snap brand in either a medium or large, depending on your eyesight. [emoji4]

Where do you find the Fas Snaps Bill?

since i am new to spider rigging, if you see those light movements do you set the hook on all movements? and if fishing shallow water whether inadvertently or on purpose, when your bait or weight, whichever is on the bottom, hits the lake floor,is there a way to tell the difference between a light bite and the dragging on the bottom?Thanks.

Attachment 237841

I troll with a 2oz weight on the bottom of a crappie rig, one beetle spin and a inline spinner with hook for minnow. Troll using cane poles 13ft-16ft long. 18 to 20 poles out at one time.