Rickie,Tom,Kosmo,and guys

Attachment 167082 DonG has a 998 TD with broken cable wires and given to me. I believe what I have come up will work,but like some input. I am going to put his ducker at angle and tie ground to extension cable ground,right SI wire to switch,will cut orange left SI wire of extension cable and mount to switch and yellow right SI wire,they will be tired to first 4 probes on On ,the second TD right SI yellow wire will be off when main TD is on and when second SI TD wire is on then both left and right SI on main cable will be off. This way I can switch while in DI mode,then flip switch other way and will be normal 998 . I can not see why this will not work better and I will not need a 2d ducer, if you see anything wrong please let me know,thanks

Based on your wiring diagram, one ON position switches both red and yellow and the other ON position switches only yellow.

I would run both cables to the switch as close as possible and make jumpers ( wire breakouts) as short as possible.

Thanks tom

I DREW THE FIRST ONE WITH CABLE CLOSE BUT IT WAS HARD TO TELL ANYTHING ABOUT THE PIC,MY ARTIST MONEY WHEN LITTLE WENT TO GUM:biggrin

Wouldn't it be easier to buy the HB TS3 switch instead of cutting wires and risking possible RFI influx into unshielded wires...??

Or are you simply trying to incorporate the rotated xducer setup...but without a separate 2d xducer...??

Rickie

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cane Pole

Based on your wiring diagram, one ON position switches both red and yellow and the other ON position switches only yellow.

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I think this is what he wants Tom...

Xducer #1 } + Left SI = Orange } On in switch Positon 1
Xducer #1 } + Right SI = Yellow } On in switch Position 1

Xducer #2 } + Right SI = Yellow } On in switch Position 2
Xducer #2 } + Left SI = Orange } Not connected

Xducer #1 } Bare wire ground common to { Xducer #2
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Tom knows more about switches than I do ...but your theory of channel designations should work....

Be sure to salvage as much foil shielding as possible in all cable cuts to wrap around everything when you get the wires the way you want them...

The foil shielding is connected to the center pin ground/drain...

This will help direct errant RFI toward the ground/drain pin...

http://i477.photobucket.com/albums/r...psb4bd5280.jpg

Rickie

Are the pairs foil wrapped? I can't remember. If so, only the inside foil that wraps the pair is conductive. The foil is thin and crap to work with but, can be done.

I repaired DonGs SI transducer. After I spliced the wire pairs (solder & heat shrink), I rejoined the foil by sliding wire (stranded) under the foil on both sides of the splice area. Then I used dual wall heat string to hold and water proof the outside cable. I guess it still working. No noise problems existed when I tested the transducer and DonG reported no noise problems to me after the xducer was reinstalled..

I can't remember if the HB transducer had a weaved case shield or not. The thin tinfoil shield keep the RFI "inside" and the braided metal outer cable shield keeps the EMI "outside". This is the best of two worlds when using cheap cabling. NASA spoiled me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cane Pole

I repaired DonGs SI transducer. After I spliced the wire pairs (solder & heat shrink), I rejoined the foil by sliding wire (stranded) under the foil on both sides of the splice area. Then I used dual wall heat string to hold and water proof the outside cable. I guess it still working. No noise problems existed when I tested the transducer and DonG reported no noise problems to me after the xducer was reinstalled..

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Tom, it is still working & that was a long time ago.:ThumbsUp

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cane Pole

Are the pairs foil wrapped? I can't remember. If so, only the inside foil that wraps the pair is conductive. The foil is thin and crap to work with but, can be done.

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The pinout diagram says the pairs are individually wrapped...

I have not confirmed this for myself...(all of my cable splicing has been in extension cables and accessory addon cables to keep from destroying a working xducer)...

Rickie

I WILL LOOK AT HIS BROKEN WIRES ON HIS DUCER AND SEE WHAT I CAN DO,IF I STILL DECIDE TO DO IT ,I WILL TEST IT OUT FOR A WHILE ON MY 798 BEFORE I PUT IT ON 998,THIS INTERFERANCE WILL POSSIBLE DAMAGE UNIT?? AND IF IT IS NOT ENOUGH TINFOIL, CAN YOU USE REGULAR TINFOIL? I ALWAYS LOVE TO MESS WITH THINGS BUT DON'T WANT TO BE STUPID ,HAVE ENOUGH OF THAT COMING NATURALLY:biggrin

I WILL LOOK AT HIS BROKEN WIRES ON HIS DUCER AND SEE WHAT I CAN DO,IF I STILL DECIDE TO DO IT ,I WILL TEST IT OUT FOR A WHILE ON MY 798 BEFORE I PUT IT ON 998,THIS INTERFERANCE WILL POSSIBLE DAMAGE UNIT?? AND IF IT IS NOT ENOUGH TINFOIL, CAN YOU USE REGULAR TINFOIL? I ALWAYS LOVE TO MESS WITH THINGS BUT DON'T WANT TO BE STUPID ,HAVE ENOUGH OF THAT COMING NATURALLY:biggrinTHANKS YOU GUYS FOR YOUR INPUT,IF HAVE ANYMORE ,PLEASE LET ME KNOE

Regular tinfoil is conductive on both sides. If you use regular tinfoil at adjacent splice points, the tinfoil will touch unless you insulate the tinfoils. The tinfoils if added would not work unless it touches the inside of the pair foil wrap. No, rf and emi noise will not cause physical damage ( in most cases) if it is induced. Mostly, noise is just crap on the display.

I believe the the shield is aluminum mylar.

If the shield is broken a few feet from the transducer, you would probably never notice it.

Belden cable has some good poop on shielding. I can't find my link info.

Perform a continuity test on the foil wrap. It should read continuity on the foil side and infinity on the mylar (colored) side. This will explain what I am trying to emphasize about splicing the foils.

thanks tom