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Poured and tied a few, the new pro mold the #2 did not fit right had to squeeze handles together while pouring...going to drop one size to a #4 sickle and call it good. Oh by the way dug out a mold I forgot I had...tube jig head and bang-o solution to my tiny heads...will JB weild the 1/32 cavity and start trying to dril out a small ball head...think it will work! Had a little time and tied a few..I sure love sitting at the vise with no direction and just go... Attachment 95448
I hardly ever use #2 anyway. Almost all mine are #4 and lots if 1/16 or less want #6.
I'm sure that's the way to go....ordered 1000 and a few Eagle claw 570's just to try... I hope you see your influence you have had on me*thanks. SkipQuote:
Originally Posted by skiptomylu
Some good looking jigs liftbite. You need to test those soon.Thumbs Up
Nice jigs buddy!!!!!!! I use mainly 2 and 4 sickles but I always dry fit them first. And I have a bunch of #6 regular EC and some Gold #6 Mustad (Old Stock). Just wish Matzou's quality control would get better!!!!!!!!
now that you mentioned that i have noticed some inconsistancy's with the barb locations.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatman
I verticle fish a lot of brush piles and like to drop down in the guts. I prefer a #4 or #6 on 1/16oz as they have a smaller hook gap and don't tend to grab cover as much as bigger hooks.
Thanks liftbite, just hope I keep being a good influence, LOL!
Oh one other little thing is it will be a lot easier to bend a #4 than it will a #2 as they are huge and thick shanks. A #4 can bend enough even with 10# braid. Doubt a #2 will be bent by that line so harder to get back I would think. I believe the #6 are even easier to bend so is one reason I like them on 1/32 and even some 1/16. You can feel the difference even when tying them, or I can anyway as I put a good bit of pressure on the thread.
Lift not so much worried about the barb as I'm worried about the length from the eyelet to the bend - thats what's causing so many not to fit in the molds
Very careful use of a dremel moto tool will solve the tight fit. BE CAREFUL. And use a small bit and go slow. Dry fitting will indicate binding spots. Work both halves of the mold instead of trying to get it all on one side.
Oh --- Nice looking jigs.
#6 won't fit in the molds...so its #4's going to look at the eagle claw #6...not my 1st choice but the 90 degree bend is a little longer towards eye, and that is the issue with #6 sickleQuote:
Originally Posted by skiptomylu
Yep that is the biggest issue I forgot that...but your dead on it's too short! won't sit 90 degreeQuote:
Originally Posted by Fatman
Yeah too short or WAY TO LONG!!!!!!! Not real worried about the 90 degree - I think they flop around a little more if they're slightly off balance but that's just me.
Don't pour my self so wouldn't know the difference, but just an FYI on the #6 Sickle hooks and if you ever have a mold that will pour them it does well in 1/16 and smaller and easier to bend. All I really wanted to say was the easy bending part for getting loose from snags. However #4's are what I use most anyway as I like the size and still can bend them even if a bit harder than the #6.Quote:
Originally Posted by liftbite56
Lift just noticed you said Pro2 mold - didn't see that part before. I have to wonder if the problem is that the Pro mold is so exact it doesn't want anything other than what's listed for hook style??? I only have the regular models so I can't say for sure. I know guys who are pouring 1/32nds down to a size #8 sickle hook with no problems, and that's why I raised the ??
I have round/ball heads of jig heads from 1/64 to 1/4 with #4 Sickle in them and I also have 1/80 to 1/16 with #6 Sickles and even some 1/8 with regular bend #6 and even #8 Sickle hooks. I have the last 2 for a guide that fished here on Toledo Bend and uses small hooks to help keep from hanging up as much. Otherwise his clients would loose all his jig since he fishes brush all the time.
yep super tight...got it for one reason to make it a true 1/24th...and a #4 and #6 fit tight!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatman
got ya...the guide I'm helping is on my home lake Allatoona...void of almost any natural structure...lots of placed brush piles...GPS them, then attack them with the long troll.... right when we get to the sweet spot kill the trolling and drift then back on the trolling motor...its so much fun...loose very few...huh then I don't have an excuse to pour and tie more!!!!LOVE IT LOVE IT!! Then in late winter when they start stacking on the flats OH BOY!! Just think I waisted years chasing green fish.....this is waaay more fun!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by skiptomylu
I buy my 1/4 oz. jigheads from Kentucky Lake Guide Ken Riddick because they have a smaller #4 easily bent hook. Go to the website and check'em out. They are great to teach newbes how to jig fish in 6 FOW or deeper! If you use a good high quality line you'll get 'em back 90% of the time. Almost always hooks fish in the roof of the mouth.
Crappie Jigs
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...loopfinish.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...shtredbouy.jpg
I pour, powder coat, and hand tie my own jigs with a specific tasks in mind the (long troll) the sickle way above out performs any other hook I have field tested...Mustad wide gap was close but they stopped production of #4 and smaller...plus where we are 1/4 is way heaver than we use if anything we go lighter down to 1/64..but thanks for the info
Nice jigs! Spare a few? Lol