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Thread: Going to drop my hooks one size

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  1. #1
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    Lift not so much worried about the barb as I'm worried about the length from the eyelet to the bend - thats what's causing so many not to fit in the molds

  2. #2
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    Very careful use of a dremel moto tool will solve the tight fit. BE CAREFUL. And use a small bit and go slow. Dry fitting will indicate binding spots. Work both halves of the mold instead of trying to get it all on one side.

    Oh --- Nice looking jigs.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fatman View Post
    Lift not so much worried about the barb as I'm worried about the length from the eyelet to the bend - thats what's causing so many not to fit in the molds
    Yep that is the biggest issue I forgot that...but your dead on it's too short! won't sit 90 degree

  4. #4
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    Yeah too short or WAY TO LONG!!!!!!! Not real worried about the 90 degree - I think they flop around a little more if they're slightly off balance but that's just me.

  5. #5
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    Lift just noticed you said Pro2 mold - didn't see that part before. I have to wonder if the problem is that the Pro mold is so exact it doesn't want anything other than what's listed for hook style??? I only have the regular models so I can't say for sure. I know guys who are pouring 1/32nds down to a size #8 sickle hook with no problems, and that's why I raised the ??

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fatman View Post
    Lift just noticed you said Pro2 mold - didn't see that part before. I have to wonder if the problem is that the Pro mold is so exact it doesn't want anything other than what's listed for hook style??? I only have the regular models so I can't say for sure. I know guys who are pouring 1/32nds down to a size #8 sickle hook with no problems, and that's why I raised the ??
    yep super tight...got it for one reason to make it a true 1/24th...and a #4 and #6 fit tight!!

  7. #7
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    I have round/ball heads of jig heads from 1/64 to 1/4 with #4 Sickle in them and I also have 1/80 to 1/16 with #6 Sickles and even some 1/8 with regular bend #6 and even #8 Sickle hooks. I have the last 2 for a guide that fished here on Toledo Bend and uses small hooks to help keep from hanging up as much. Otherwise his clients would loose all his jig since he fishes brush all the time.

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by skiptomylu View Post
    I have round/ball heads of jig heads from 1/64 to 1/4 with #4 Sickle in them and I also have 1/80 to 1/16 with #6 Sickles and even some 1/8 with regular bend #6 and even #8 Sickle hooks. I have the last 2 for a guide that fished here on Toledo Bend and uses small hooks to help keep from hanging up as much. Otherwise his clients would loose all his jig since he fishes brush all the time.
    got ya...the guide I'm helping is on my home lake Allatoona...void of almost any natural structure...lots of placed brush piles...GPS them, then attack them with the long troll.... right when we get to the sweet spot kill the trolling and drift then back on the trolling motor...its so much fun...loose very few...huh then I don't have an excuse to pour and tie more!!!!LOVE IT LOVE IT!! Then in late winter when they start stacking on the flats OH BOY!! Just think I waisted years chasing green fish.....this is waaay more fun!!!!
    Last edited by liftbite56; 07-06-2012 at 03:55 PM. Reason: miss spelling

  9. #9
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    I buy my 1/4 oz. jigheads from Kentucky Lake Guide Ken Riddick because they have a smaller #4 easily bent hook. Go to the website and check'em out. They are great to teach newbes how to jig fish in 6 FOW or deeper! If you use a good high quality line you'll get 'em back 90% of the time. Almost always hooks fish in the roof of the mouth.

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  10. #10
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    I pour, powder coat, and hand tie my own jigs with a specific tasks in mind the (long troll) the sickle way above out performs any other hook I have field tested...Mustad wide gap was close but they stopped production of #4 and smaller...plus where we are 1/4 is way heaver than we use if anything we go lighter down to 1/64..but thanks for the info

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