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Fishin' Expedition Repairs and Mods
It has just gotten to the point leaving the dock with the time change it's dark. My Expedition (Boat Puller) was bought and repaired just so I had something reliable to pull to the local boat ramps around here. Since its not new I hope the bad guys walk by it to something nicer. It is a 2006 model that was parked under a tree for 2 years, needless to say I had to resurrect it.
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To pull the headlight fixtures it is only 3 bolts, 2 in the front high and only extended vertical bolt in the back. All 10mm. After just unplug the 2 plugs and the fixture is free.
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Spraying a bit of Kroil on the bolts helped them be removed. You do need extensions especially for the one in the back.
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Although the new fixtures come with new Phillips bulbs I have been upgrading all our vehicles with these LED bulbs and what a difference it makes. Driving at night is way easier when you can see to drive. The Silverado trucks both got the LEDs with a small Ballast. The original fixtures were burned up by the Sun.
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These TYC fixtures are CERPA certified for less than $70ea. They come with a cling wrap coating over the lens. Still amazes me the difference new Headlight fixtures make. I just need to adjust the Beams now.
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Very Tight Replacement of Blend Door Motor in AC System
So owning 4 out of 5 older vehicles and all 4 had something to fix. The other day heading out to the river the heater wouldn't blow hot air, I could hear a clicking sound coming from near the blower area. After researching the problem I found out there are small plastic gears in the HVAC door motors that strip the teeth. This is the video I watched before attempting the repair. I will tell you this the Ford Mechanic (Very Good Mechanic, my Guru on Ford Repairs!) must have much smaller hands than mine. My hands are cut up from shoving them between all the metal and plastic.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y2Bh4pN27zI&t=584
You start out by stripping the Instrument Cluster trim off. Numerous switches are mounted within so you must unplug everything before removing. I had to remove the stereo too.
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After clearing out the big stuff I had to remove the glove box too. I could not fit where I needed to to get my hands shoved up in the hole made by it's removal.
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So the Blend Door Motor is way back under the dash. Under the radio the clearance was so tight I couldn't get a single finger to fit far enough back to hold the Gear Wrench on the back screw. I used my Cat Claw (Red Handle Trim Tool) to hold the wrench down while moving the handle between the tips of two fingers on my right hand working thru the Glove Box opening. I will say it now, that back screw was Never going back in from the start. Well I stuck to the plan, if I ever take the dash off I will install it then, until then though I will have cold AC and Hot Heat.
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The back screw is the screw behind the Blend Door Motor Plug. The plug I had to slip a very long handle flat screwdriver in between the lower tap and the HVAC housing. Once I lifted the tap on the plug I had to rotate the screwdriver blade walking the plug out of the hole. The last picture is a shot of the space the Motor came out of, the screw laying on its side fell out from the back screw hole and rolled under the motor. BTW the angled pictures are because the space is so tight only the corner of my phone would fit to get a shot of what I was working on.
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The Motor Drive Shaft only fits in one way so while walking it back into the hole it came out of I had to keep the air seal on the shaft while rotating the Motor till the shaft fit. Once the shaft started down the Motor still had to be rotated into its resting place before installing the screws I could get back installed. The replacement motor shaft position is not the position of the one you remove.
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I could not have done this Blend Door Motor replacement without the 2 Gear Wrenches both 8mm, the Cat Claw, and a Telescoping Magnet.
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5.4 3V Triton Fishin' Expedition (May include F150 too) Towing Upgrade
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The 5.4 3Valve Ford engines were around 2004-2007 and were installed in the Ford Expedition & F150 Trucks with a 4 speed Automatic Transmission. If you have one of these you may want to know this information to Upgrade the Towing Capacity of your vehicle. If you have a factory Transmission oil cooler, factory trailer plug (flat), and a Rear End code J6 (3.73 Ratio Limited Slip) you vehicle is rated to tow around 6,800 pounds max for a 2 wheel drive, 4 wheel drive is about 300 pounds less. My Expedition has the 5.4 3V Triton Engine, the above factory towing options, and I want to increase the towing rating to 8,900 pounds for a 2 wheel drive. To do this a larger Radiator, Transmission Oil Cooler, and Brake Controller must be installed. This post is replacing the Radiator only. I will cover the Transmission Oil Cooler upgrade in the next installment.
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I'm starting out here kinda in the middle of the job to show you the difference in the size of the core between the original Radiator and the new Radiator. The HD Towing Radiator is much thicker. Fits in the same location, everything else is the same. I bought this HD Towing Radiator from Rock Auto. I took all the pictures when putting everything back together.
The first thing to do is to remove the plastic Radiator cover which is held on with plastic push rivets. I use a Cat Claw Trim Removal tool for that. After the plastic cover is removed you need to remove the small crossover Fan Shroud Cover on the bottom of the Fan Shroud. It is removed from under the vehicle. Here is a picture of my Fan Shroud upside down so you can see the removable center section.
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Once the Center Section is removed the rest of the work can be done from up top. I wanted to remove the Fan / Fan Clutch assembly together to give me extra room to work so before I did anything else I loosened the Fan Clutch where it threads onto the Water Pump.
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I want to mention here if your Fan Clutch goes out you will first notice your A/C not cooling when sitting still but when you are driving the A/C Cooling will return. That is because the Fan Clutch on these engines is special HD units. Do Not replace with an aftermarket one you will have more problems with the A/C later. I installed a NAPA Fan Clutch in mine when I felt it was too loose and failing. Well until I went to a Ford Dealership and bought a Factory Motorcraft Fan Clutch did my A/C work sitting in traffic, engine idling.
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Using my Fan Clutch Removal tool and a Air Chisel I first place the 36mm Wrench on the Fan Clutch Hex Head.
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Then I lock the Air Chisel Driver onto the Hook on the end of the 36mm Wrench to loosen. Counter Clockwise to loosen, Clockwise to tighten. The Wrench is in position to tighten.
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Once I loosen the threads on the Fan Clutch I remove the Coolant from the Cooling System. On the Passenger side of the Radiator down at the bottom is a small valve with a 3/8in Barb pointing towards the side of the vehicle. You slip a piece of 3/8in ID hose onto the barb, place the other end into a suitable container, remove the Coolant Reservoir Cap, then open the valve. The Coolant will now drain out almost everything.
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About 2+ Gallons was removed. Now I unbolt the 2 bolts holding the Fan Shroud in place, unscrew the Fan Clutch and after laying the Fan Clutch to the back begin working the Fan Shroud out. You see the Lower Radiator hose is disconnected, these pictures were taken when I was putting the Shroud back on, no worries.
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Once removed I just set the Shroud & Fan on the side till later.
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Now remove both Radiator hoses. I use Hose Clamp Pliers for the task. Really makes handling the clamps a breeze as it locks the Clamps open. Remove the Coolant Tank hose to the Radiator too.
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Now the Transmission Lines. You must buy the correct Transmission Line tool. This one came from Amazon in a set with a tool for 1/2 in FORD Transmission lines. Place a large pan (I use a mortar mixing pan) under the frame on the Driver's side beneath the lines. Transmission oil will be lost.
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You lock the tool around the line and just push in, the line is released so it can be pulled out.
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I used a Bungee to hold the lines back out of the way when I set the new Radiator in place.
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There are 2 13mm bolts that hold the Radiator in place. Reinstall them after setting the Radiator and at this time I put the Fan Shroud and Fan Assembly back on. I set the fan down inside the engine compartment first leaning it rearward while lowering the Fan Shroud over it, working the Shroud back in place. It was easier going in this way. I then connected the Transmission lines, Radiator Hoses, & Coolant Tank Hose.
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After the assembly was complete and my research directed me to replace the Thermostat with a cooler temperature one. The OEM Thermostat was a 195 degree unit, I installed a 180 degree unit. My Expedition is driven for towing most of the time or it just sits. With my 2500HD Silverado getting crushed in the Tornado a month or so ago I made these upgrades to the Fishin' Expedition to Tow my Camper in a Emergency if we are hit by a Hurricane. With Hurricane season on top of us those that prepare for the worst usually can handle one when hit.
There are 2 I think 8mm bolts that hold the Water Outlet on, be sure you have a new O-Ring gasket for the Water Outlet when changing the Thermostat.
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This is a Super Stat, when it fails it fails OPEN so you can get where you are going. They cost more but worth every penny in Pease of Mind.
Fords of this era used ZERKS Coolant, I do not believe in a Universal Coolant unless it is a new Build, if not I use OEM Coolants only.
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A 50/50 mix with Distilled Water on the refill and a few Burps, then you are good to go. Burp your vehicle, turn the Heater Control to full Hot, start the engine and let it warm up a couple of times allowing it to completely cool off before the next cycle. This Burps trapped air into the Coolant Reservoir. I may edit this if after reading later I think of a better way to explain something.
