HaHa: 
Reply With QuoteSounds like some bad interference or wiring. Do you have a shield on the TM mounted transducer and how or what battery source is the graph sharing? Kind of perplexing on the fact that it was working fine and now it isn't.
Slabmaster
Helix question
I recently purchased a helix 5 and mounted it to the front. Transducer is on the trolling motor. First couple of times out everything worked fine. Today I lost DI still had sonar completely blank screen on DI. So after about 30 minutes and multiple shut downs it starts working properly again. I fished for a little while then went to change spots. When I put the trolling motor in the water my console unit read 35FOW while my helix read 10. Have no clue what’s going on any helpful tips would be appreciated.
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Sounds like some bad interference or wiring. Do you have a shield on the TM mounted transducer and how or what battery source is the graph sharing? Kind of perplexing on the fact that it was working fine and now it isn't.
Slabmaster
What do you mean by shield? It is on the same battery as my console unit/ motor.
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Slabmaster
It is mounted right behind the fin on the trolling motor. Other than that no shield.
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CHECK YOUR VOLTAGE . I HAVE A 7 AND HAD ALL KINDS OF PROBLEMS TILL I HOOKED THE TWO DEPTH FINDERS TO A SEPARATE BATTERY .
CATCH THEM ALL.
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If you are running both units at the same time you may be getting some cross talk. Cross talk is when the other sonars echo is being read by the other unit. And like the others above said it is always best to hook the unit directly to battery with it's own line and fuse.
Be safe and good luck fishing
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He is asking if you have anything shielding transducer from motor housing. Like I use the original part of transom bracket with a hose clamp so it's not touching. Think he has a price of plastic or rubber between moto and his ducer. Also you need to run power wire directly to battery so you know you have good power to your unit. One more thing if readings start getting stupid make sure console unit is turned off. With like kind units at same frequency sometimes you get cross talk where one will overpower the other causing false readings.
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I had a Helix 7 I mounted on an older Motorguide trolling motor, I used the standard compact transom transducer with the transom bracket to mount it to the TM along with a large hose clamp. I had mine wired directly to the cranking battery and no other electronics on the battery, I would get a great reading while not using the TM once I turned it on it the picture would distort very badly and even get some funny depth readings. I contacted HB and inquired about the issue, I was informed that the transom transducer is not recommended for trolling motors, they make a specific style transducer that has extra internal shielding to protect against any electrical interference that may be coming from the motor. I went ahead and mounted the same transducer to the transom and didn't have any more issues after that.Originally Posted by n_naramore
Slabmaster
There is a piece of plastic in between the Ducer and the trolling motor. And it has worked fine while running the trolling motor/console unit the past couple times out. I do have it hooked directly to the cranking battery with my motor/console unit. But my live well, bilge, and lights are all on that battery too. I am starting to think it is a wiring issue from what y’all have said. I might need another battery for just my two units. It is probably stealing the voltage to the unit when I turn my live well or bilge on. I will have to hook a meter up and test it. I think it all started after I turned the live well on. Never caught any last time out so didn’t need it!!
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Helix question
The sonar in a Bird is very iffy at best. I’ve used the Helix units and their auto mode in sonar and DI stinks. In shallow water you constantly have to change the depth range manually and they don’t read bottom depths accurately. Other features are the bomb but they do have issues in the sonar area. DI is the same with having to manually adjust the depth range. In less than 8 feet of water they can’t seem to find the correct depth. It changes all the time and gets frustrating. I called their tech support numerous times. I also don’t like spending the extra 500 or so to stop them from going into the red circle or donut at less than .6 mph. 250 for a heading sensor and 250 for a switch box to connect more than two things to the network and an 50-75 for an extra Ethernet cable is a bit pricy to me. About 550 to fix the donut thing and the shallow water sonar still stinks with NO fix. Their mega imaging, 360, and their lakemaster card with adjustable contours and depth ranges is da bomb tho.
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