Normally, with the trolling motor, I install a quick release made by minn kota. There is one that I really like and have used in the past. Unfortunately, it would not work on this boat. There is a mounting plate that mounts to the trolling motor and then a puck that gets mounted to the deck. In the propper mount location, the puck extended too far into the gunnel of the boat and didn't allow for propper bolting. I simply hard mounted the trolling motor. Good thing I bought my cover specially built to leave the trolling motor attached.

For the rear of the boat, I always use a polymar mounting plate (sold at Cabelas). I prefer to use the 12"x18" model as compared to the smaller plates they sell. The reason for this is simple: No screw holes below the water line. If you use the smaller ones, it is mounted below the water line. IF you want to change over to this style, it is no problem to seal existing holes. When mounting the plate, I first choose a plane that is level with the back of the boat. In most cases, I use a framing square tight to the top trim on the transom. I then draw my vertical line knowing it is 90 degrees to the transom. This is my far left or right verticle line that I can measure from. I cut my angle on the bottom of the plate ensuring the plate is 1/2 inch above the bottom of the boat. Measuring over from my vertical line, I find the center point of any rivets, screws or other. On the back of the plate, I use a forsner bit to recess out the location of these obstructions. In the event you are going over a previous transducer mounting location, I leave the old screws in place, recess the plate and fill with silicone when mounting.

I drill three pilot holes at the top of the plate and countersink the holes. For added protection, I go down just above the water line and mount two additional screws (one on each side). After this is done, I locate the mounting position of my devices and ensure to only go through the plate. After everything is mocked up, I remove it. ANY screw that goes through the boat gets a liberal amount of high grade underwater marine silicone. I also fill the recess holes in the back of the plate to ensure a good seal. Next, I run several lines around the outside edge (about 2 inches from the edge). I then mount it with screws. Lastly, to complete, I run a bead around the finished outside edge. Below is a picture prior to silicone as the tempurate was't right to use it.
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