Thread: Got Some Work To Do

Evidently when I bought it there was water in the oil. before I could get to service it my better half had open heart surgery which delayed servicing it even more. then the weather turned south and freezing. Now II have a crack about 5 inches long on the propeller end extending forward toward the cone. It's an hydro-mechanical unit. no shift rod, electrical wire instead. this can be changed to a mechanical unit by getting a newer lower unit from a three cylinder Evinrude, Johnson, OMC from 1974 through 1988. A shift mechanism has to be installed also so the shift rod will have something to connect to also. Momma is doing better and I don't have to be here all the time now, so When this weather breaks I can start working on the boat. Just need things to fall in order so I can get it done.
Being on Social Security, and Va Disability makes money a little tight, but I am a persistant, hard headed cuss, and this will get fixed. It's just when.

Can it be welded back together? I’m sure there is someone who can do it for some horse tradin.


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It's thin pot metal. It's possible, maybe. But just faster to replace it. I have an old fastwin 18 that a fin broke on. I payed for someone here that was said to be a great welder. Well, I'm not a welder, but that looked like a 2y/o did it. and considering a bearing sleave goes on the inside, I'd just rather replace this part...
I just rewatched a video on this. I was wwwrrrr, not right. It's not bearing surfaces inside as much as on O-ring on the bearing carrier. If it's not perfectly round, then no seal as the O-ring is thin like spaghetti, and heat applied to that pot metal will egg shape it. I had thought of brazzing it myself...

Originally Posted by Jamesdean

It's thin pot metal. It's possible, maybe. But just faster to replace it. I have an old fastwin 18 that a fin broke on. I payed for someone here that was said to be a great welder. Well, I'm not a welder, but that looked like a 2y/o did it. and considering a bearing sleave goes on the inside, I'd just rather replace this part...
I just rewatched a video on this. I was wwwrrrr, not right. It's not bearing surfaces inside as much as on O-ring on the bearing carrier. If it's not perfectly round, then no seal as the O-ring is thin like spaghetti, and heat applied to that pot metal will egg shape it. I had thought of brazzing it myself...

That's what I was thinking, you could weld it back together, but getting it straight and round would be next to impossible.

Alternatively, if all else fails, you may be able to get a new housing and swap the guts from yours into it. Would likely require reshimming though.

I won't know what shape the internals are in until I get some warmer weather so I can get the lower unit off. It's in an outside slot at a secure storage slot, covered. None available large enough to put boat and trailer in. Outside temp is 11 with a wind chill of 1 degree. Too cold for me. My old joints don't handle the cold like they used too!!!
Seeing's how I haven't been able to drain the lower unit, I don't know how much water was in it, nor how long the water was in there. Won't know for a while.

Yea to make it right probably need some machining on the inside to true up the surfaces.


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Originally Posted by lugnutzz

Yea to make it right probably need some machining on the inside to true up the surfaces.


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And with the cost of machining here, it will probably be cheaper to get a good used lower unit. I found some on fleabay. Lower end they'er $200, and up from there. I did find a place that deals in used outboard parts on a facebook page, that said he had a good unit, had been inspected tested, pressure tested, and he would ship it for $465...It's just will he have it when I get the cash...I think even though it's more money, I shouldn't have to go through it.

I got over to the storage unit today for a couple minute's. Seeing how we've had a couple semi warm days since it snowed, then the wind tried to relocate Springfield into the next county, I thought I would go and check on it. I found a small amount of water on top of the tarp I covered it with. Got rid of that, then pulled the engine cover to check a coupl of things.1 was to check the shift mechanism, 2 pull the plugs, and three drain the lower unit. I also wanted to pull the plugs and look at them.
Well, I did get the shift mechanism looked at. It's been converted to a mechanical shift lower already...see pic. However, the rest had to wait for a bit as momma called, and I had to run home to help her. I did, however, notice what I believe is the juice from a coil dripped down on the cover on the motor side. Not good. Soon, I'll need to be taking the flywheel off to get to that. I got the tools and catch pan for the oil in the back of the jeep, so I got it when I get back over their again.
First pic is the shift mechanism. Looks totally mechanical to me. And the others is the drip...

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One thing that is going to help me out immensely is I went on line and found an Evinrude repair and service manual for this outboard. It's a printable PDF file of almost 500 pages. So it looks like I need to get me some ink, a reem of copy paper, some document protectors, and a couple three ring binders. This way I'll have something to direct me when working on the boat...

Originally Posted by Jamesdean

One thing that is going to help me out immensely is I went on line and found an Evinrude repair and service manual for this outboard. It's a printable PDF file of almost 500 pages. So it looks like I need to get me some ink, a reem of copy paper, some document protectors, and a couple three ring binders. This way I'll have something to direct me when working on the boat...

I save them on my phone or iPad/computer. And just print relevant pages. Also you can search the digital copy for words/phrases and find the page number then look up in your “book”(bu see).


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