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Thread: Favorite bobber stops for slip corks

  1. #1
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    Default Favorite bobber stops for slip corks


    So I have always used the little plastic things you weave your line through 3 or 4 times (paired with a bead) as an adjustable bobber stop. I'm looking to branch out a little both because it good to expand on skills but more importantly I'm trying to find the best option that will work for my kids' reels. My oldest are twins and finally want to move on from the spincasts and go to spinning reels. Probably start with 100 series sized ones. I still have two younger ones who will be on spincast for a good bit longer. Not sure you can even make a bobber stop work with a spincast but Im all ears if anyone has an idea there.

    Anyways, I've never been a big fan of those pre-tied yarn ones. Few times I tried them all they did was slip on me. I'd much rather tie my own but what do yall use for that? Ive seen some fellas on youtube say dental floss but Ive then seen others swear floss slips just as bad as the yarn or the bead wants to slide over the knot.

    How well do the rubber ones work? Any other options Im not aware of?

    FWIW I typically spool my crappie/panfish reels with either 4 or 6 lb flouro in case that has an impact on which option works best.

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    I use 30 PowerPro braid tied in a 6loop uni knot ...

    (Same line I use for catfish so I have plenty) ...

    Leave just enough tag ends to grab each end with pliers to retighten occasionally ...

    Hole size in slip bobber determines if I need a small bead (small beads in craft section at Walmart) ...

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    Depending on my set up i use either mono or 4-6# braid. For bobber stops I found small sized football shaped stops on ebay real cheap. I have enough to last me for years...and pretty cheap too...these and a bead, good to go.Name:  20250620_165854.jpg
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    Arkrods.com offer good reliable boxer stop.

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    I've tried the "ladder" style, the "dogbone" style, and the rubber "football" bobber stops ... all on spinning reels ... and the "football" style is the only ones that I've had any luck with. The biggest "cons" against most all bobber stops is slippage (when reeling in a fish & the stop gets hung on the rod tip), or the stop gets hung up in the line spool on the cast (resulting in a short cast or a totally stopped cast).
    All of them have been so frustrating to use that I rarely even consider using them. I have only one outfit rigged with a slipfloat, and it's only seen action one time in the last decade or so. I've had the plastic ladder & dogbone style bobber stops sit in my tackle box for so long that they basically deteriorated to the point that they fell apart/crumbled in my hand when I finally got around to using them. The rubber football ones have been in my tackle for decades & are still usable (for what that's worth).

    (Note: when referring to "ladder" style, I'm talking about the 3hole or 4hole style bobber stop. The "dogbone" style I'm talking about is the Arnold Speed Stop bobber stops)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Speckalator View Post
    Arkrods.com offer good reliable boxer stop.
    Those are actually weight stops or weight pegs for bass fishing. They will work but are actually larger than bobber stops. Check on Amazon or Bass Pro to get some smaller versions for bobbers. To me, the weight stops get hung up in the guides too much.

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    I fish a slip cork maybe deeper then most , on 4 lb mono line , I tie a uniknot of 6lb mono , three raps. It passes thru the small guides easy and thru the line roller on the bail wire.
    the football style hang up in the roller for me. The uniknot slides easy to adjust the depth.
    and it’s free.

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    Depends on how long I want leader to be, if 6’ or more I would tie a stopper knot with 6lb mono with tiny bead. If 5’ or less i would use rubber bobber stopper.

    I saw you mentioned bead slip thru the knot. It is so true a lot of bead here has hole too large for light line setup. To fix this I use small shrink tube, shrink them is hot water then I cut into tiny pieces. I will insert this piece between knot and bead. The whole is small enough to not pass thru knot while outer layer would block the bead going thru.

    Another thing yes the pre tied yarn is slick and would move from spot you want. I found that 4 ply 30-40lb braids like powder pro is better or just simply use soft mono line.

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    I fish slip bobbers a lot. I've used the rubber, football-type bobber stops and the yarn. I've found that the rubber bobber stops give me a lot more trouble when pitching or casting when they hit the eyelets on the rod. I've had the best outcomes with the yarn and haven't had much trouble since I've started cinching them down really tight before I trim off the excess ends. However, sometimes this makes hard to slide the yarn up and down (I use 6 lb ACC Crappie Stix copolymer line), so I always wet the yarn before trying to move it up or down.

    When putting a big bead 10-12 inches on my line when tight lining or vertical jigging and being able to see it better on livescope, I use the rubber bobber stops above and below the bead. You can also just loop the line through the bead several times, but with bobber stops, you can still get the bead to slide down to the jig if you get hung up.

    I always use spinning reels, so I'm not sure how it would work on spin cast reels.

  10. #10
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    Try these floats, they are slip floats, but have spring if you want to fish shallow.
    no bead required. The only thing they don’t have a brass straw to slide thru.
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