I switched to Sufix 832 camo line. Problem solved on my 12' B&M.
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I bet at times your stripping line with bail closed and loose drag. If so that introduces a lot of line twist. If you just dip and want-need a light reel thing I would look at one of those eagle claw or similar in line ice reels. Most reviews I have seen say they have a pretty good drag and retrieve ratio. I have a couple of Solo Wally marshal reels I like for those reasons,but I seldom dip with more than 6-8 ft of line out. If I fished deeper that larger spool in line would be my choice.
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I switched to Sufix 832 camo line. Problem solved on my 12' B&M.
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Are you just verticle jig fishing with this ? Or are you casting ?
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You might try spooling new mono with spool on ground & label facing up, after line is with in a 1/8" from reel's rim, hook the line on the side tab if you have one or rubber band line taught to reel diameter & soak in hot water from sink 115F-120F for 10 minutes & memory should adjust from line spool size to reel size, has worked for me with Vicious hi-vis line.
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There's really no such thing as "no memory" line, if you're talking about mono. But, you can "lessen" the memory coils that a spinning reel will impart to mono ... if not used often, or even between uses. Take it outside & tie the tag end to something stationary - open bail and walk off 60 or 70ft - close bail and pull rod/reel back until line stretch is almost at max - hold it there for 5-10sec. then move the rod/reel back towards the tied end, taking all the pressure off the line - repeat 1-2 more times. Cut the line loose from the tied end - put pressure on the incoming line, right in front of the reel, with your finger & thumb, as you reel the loose line back onto the reel. The "stretching" will straighten out the line, while the loose line dragging thru the grass will untwist the coils present in that 60-70ft of line length ... and reeling the line back on under finger/thumb pressure will wrap the line smooth & tight around the reel spool, which will lessen the chance of loose line loops that cause line snarls (line coming off the reel in tangles) and lengthen your cast ... or in your case, allow the jig to drop easily.
You get braid looped over your rod tip because the motion of the rod tip is faster than the reaction of the braid to that movement. Braid is limp, so when you drop your rod tip down quickly ... the jig doesn't keep the braid taught, allowing it to go limp at the tip and possibly form a loop ... then when you raise your rod tip back up quickly, the rod tip can go thru that loop ... and there you aretip wrapped. You generally won't get tip wrapped with braid, if you move the rod tip slowly up/down while keeping the jig on a taught line ... but, if you "jig" with quick jerks of the rod tip, even a few inches, you may get tip wrapped every so often. Wet braid is very "clingy" and will stick to things it comes in contact with ... so you don't even have to produce a loop at the rod tip to get the braid over the rod tip. It can simply just get laid over the rod tip by the motion of your jigging, and it will cling to the rod tip to where you'll have to turn the rod completely around to get it back right. That's better/easier than when it gets the loop and wraps ... because then you have to bring the rod tip close enough to you to remove the wrap by hand.
You won’t stop twist on mono best I can tell , I just simply pull out about what I plan to use depth wise and stretch the heck out of it myself ...my 2 cents
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You might look into a leader straightener used in fly fishing. When vertical jigging with light jigs, contact is a must. Over 1/16 it doesn't matter.
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For a long time I was putting line on my spinning reels incorrectly and creating twist. You want to lay the spool flat on the floor and have the line coming off the spool in a counter-clock-wise direction. Most of the time that will be label up, but not always so be sure and check. A bigger spinning reel does seem to have less issues than a small reel. Also make sure your reel is rated for the size line you are using. They usually list three sizes on the reel spool, i would want the line size i planned to use to be the first listing or no more than the middle listed number. Example if you your reel says 2, 4, and 6, then to me that is a 2-4 LB. test reel at best. I like a 2000-3000 size reel it will handle 6-8LB much better than a reel that is mainly rated for 4LB. I have a bad shoulder too, but using too light of a reel and having to fight to keep your rod tip up all the time is what really wears on you...not the weight of the reel. To me, i have found a little bigger reel helps to balance the rod and not make it so tip heavy. Personally I disagree with folks that think putting a micro reel on a 10 foot pole will somehow make the pole easier to hold. Sorry didnt mean to go off topic...back to line twist, another tip (hardest of all to do) is don't reel when you hear your drag slipping, that will surely put twist in your line. Let the rod and drag fight the fish, and when drag stops slipping then go back to reeling. Hope you found something useful in my ramble...good luck
Think if I was having that much trouble doing your kind of fishing, maybe it would be time for me to use a casting reel in place of a spinning reel. Then you shouldn't have that issue.
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If I used a casting reel I would have such a bird's nest that I might as well do one cast and change reels. I use my rods alot for mutliple species. I cast a lot for perchand then use them for slow trolling for Crappie
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