Newbie knows nuthing..

[Spoonminnow]

Awesome start guys.. I will try my luck the weekend i guess... Why cheaper reels? Ive got several poles and reels already that i bass fish with... Of course i woukd drop line weight down, but other then that would a medium 7ft fast action Rainshadow with a Lews speed spool work.. Ive got a moderate action too... And a medium heavy too, but thought it might be too much... I dont have any lite action.. Anyhow, on the sideimage/downimage, thats good to know info about how different fish congregate differwntly...anyhow, any more tips and suggestions let me know.. Im fixin to go to bait shop to find some baits..

cheaper reels? - As with bass or any species fishing, gear ratio can be important as well as spool diameter. You want to maintain pressure to the hook point once the fish is hooked and especially with long distance hook sets,
There are many reels under $50 that have a smooth drag that are medium in size and too small or too large a reel is a waste of money when using light action rods.
Medium action rods usually aren't great for pan fish whereas a light action rod gets a good hook set yet doesn't yank the hook out. I prefer 5 1/2' - 6' rods with a fast tip but never super ultralight that bends along its entire length.

line type - 10# test braid as the main line on the spool and a 2' or a bit less fluorocarbon leader of 6# test. Strike sensitivity is paramount! The line combo you the sensitivity to feel long distance, light strikes as well as allows a no nonsense hook set and the maintaining of hook pressure once hooked. The light leader allows the best lure action.

Baits -As far as baits are concerned, as a bass angler you must have a stock of thin finesse action worms. Cut off the last 1 3/4" - 2", *remove the curl tail , if any, and cut the end to a point. Then rig it on a 1/16 oz ball head jig (unpainted if possible). If larger fish are known to be around, a 1/8 oz jig head can work but only if the curve of the hook comes out at the top of the worm less than half way the length from the front of the lure. (Note: plastic trout worms are too thin and flimsy.) There are many many lures that work for crappie as long as they aren't too long.

*remove the curl tail - reason being:
the presentation versatility factor. A lure is more versatile at the slowest retrieves when nothing affects its action except the rod tip and reel handle. With curl tail grubs, the curl tail has a muted action on the bait, whether on the drop or when mixing up lure speeds. Today I caught crappie and other species in 6' but the most and largest fish in 15'. In deeper water I want the lure to dart and die - one of the most effective retrieves when using light lures; a curl tail subdues that. Curl tails are IMO okay for straight retrieves near vegetation though there are better curl tail designs (IE Power Grubs). But even 2" tubes work better IMO.

*** You want the lure to quiver and dart at any retrieve speed and with rod top twitches as well as reel handle pauses. Fish don't usually go for steady retrieves as you know from bass fishing and the slower the better. You'll still cover large areas even when working the lure slow horizontally at a particular depth (which is mid way down in deep or shallow water.

Wherever you search for bass, you most likely will find crappie especially when weed beds are present. Always fan cast around the boat shallow and deep because crappies may school at any depth. Bass structure works for crappie.

[Cane Pole]

Zebco combo comes with all you need except minners. I still use mine. Knowing "nothing" and admitting it is a confession of intelligence.