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Thread: Pulling cranks ??

  1. #11
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    Thanks for all the info guys, been crappie fishing for many years but never tried anything like this, it sounds interesting to try on one of my local lakes. Didn't know the best way to avoid tangles, which I'm sure will happen often enough anyway. thought fish might pull off if I kept going, but it makes sense keeping the lines tight would help avoid tangles. I have 4 stroke 40 that will idle pretty slow and quiet may try this and trolling motor to see how each works. Lot of knowledgeable here, good site for sure.
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  2. #12
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    When Pulling Cranks I use an Engine Mounted Minn Kota EM up to 1.7 mph (I run 3 big Optimas, so I can troll all day at that top speed). If I need to Pull faster - I use an ETEC 15 horse kicker - up to 3 mph and if I know I am going to be pulling mostly over 2.2 mph - I just use the big 250HO. Pushing cranks I will use the Terrova and maybe "supplement" with the kicker if it is windy. The only time I slow down is for a big fish (Cat, Sheep, etc) and if I snag - I will break it off and keep going - unless it is truly a hot-running-hard-to-find bait. For a plug knocker - I'll use old sparkplugs and bend the gap closed - sliding it down the line and jigging it until it gets the lure free.
    Take a senior or a kid fishing soon!

  3. #13
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    I've pulled cranks for years. Never trolled with the electric troll mtr. I made a bracket
    and placed a 3.5 hp OB beside my 150.I set the 3.5 in such an angle that I can steer
    the boat at the wheel unless it very windy. Never stop when get snagged, and make
    wide sweeps when turning. Speed 1.5 to 1.7mph

  4. #14
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    CrappiePappy is offline Super Moderator - 2013 Man Of The Year * Crappie.com Supporter
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    Quote Originally Posted by flatbottomarky View Post
    Thanks for all the info guys, been crappie fishing for many years but never tried anything like this, it sounds interesting to try on one of my local lakes. Didn't know the best way to avoid tangles, which I'm sure will happen often enough anyway. thought fish might pull off if I kept going, but it makes sense keeping the lines tight would help avoid tangles. I have 4 stroke 40 that will idle pretty slow and quiet may try this and trolling motor to see how each works. Lot of knowledgeable here, good site for sure.
    From what I've seen & experienced in my limited time pulling cranks ... once the fish comes to the surface, you want to hold the rod high & keep the fish coming on its side (skiing on the surface) with a fast retrieve ... then net or hoist the fish into the boat. My experience has only been with 2oz weights & a 5' mono leader between the main line braid & crankbait ... so, if you hang up, you keep going or risk having all the lines pulled to the bottom. With the boat going at approx. 1.8mph ... even from 15' deep, the fish will be pulled to the surface rather quickly. It can then be skidded across the water's surface with a fast/steady retrieve.

    Some fish will get the "bends" from the rapid removal from the depths, and may require "fizzing" of the air bladder if you intend to keep them alive for any length of time; for whatever reason (tournament weigh-in, possible later release, etc).

    ... cp
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  5. #15
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    skeetbum is offline Crappie.com Legend - Moderator Jig Tying Forum * Crappie.com Supporter
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    Interesting CP. I don't use weight behind the boat, letting the bill on the bait take it down. I looked at some in line sinkers on Ebay but haven't gotten any yet. If I have to stop the baits float and just need retrieved. I don't have the rods needed to push, can't handle the weight. I'll have to try some weight on those behind and see how it goes.
    Creativity is just intelligence fooling around
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  6. #16
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    I troll with my out board and tie two buckets to the back of the boat to slow it down much like a drift sock would. Redneck engineering at it's finest.
    New goal 16" crappie by December 30
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  7. #17
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    Oh and I just real them in unless it's a walleye or bigger fish than a crappie then I go ahead and kill the engine and work him in.
    New goal 16" crappie by December 30
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  8. #18
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    Just remember when you use inline or snap-weights with cranks they are very speed sensitive. the faster you go the higher it will ride and the slower you go the more the crank will sink. but the good thing is it gives your crank more vertical swim and covers more of the water column. In a turn the outside boards (if using inline planer boards)(I prefer the Offshore Mini boards, GO TEAM SKARLIS) go faster and the inside will slow down. so if your pull a fish while in a turn on the inside, slow down and go deeper (more line out) and just the opposite for the outside, faster and higher.

    A general rule of thumb for inline / snap weights, a 2oz weight, 6 foot in front of crankbait and add about 6 to 8 feet to your dive curve @ 1.5 mph. For example I THINK a bandit 300 at 55 feet back puts you at about 10 feet so with the inline 6 feet in front you would be running your lure about 16 to 18 feet down. This is not exact just a rough estimate so you just have to make adjustments until the fish tell you your on the mark
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