naw ibn ... a 9mm isn't enough, ya needs a 357 Mag....LOL!!
A good rod for dock shooting has to have some backbone ... some stiffness to it, so as to "load up" when you bend it back, and snap forward with speed when you let'er go. I've shot docks with most all of my Crappie outfits ... from my 4.5ft'r to my 7ft'rs, Ultralights & Microlights, spinning and spincast setups. It "can" be done with these types of rods & outfits .... it's just easier and more efficient, and baits cast farther (or skips across the water's surface farther) if you are using a MH action rod. Timing the release of the line coming from the reel, as the baited end of the line passes the rod tip, is the key to a good "shot" ... a MH rod puts more speed and power into the flight of the bait - and due to that, one must get their "timing" down pretty tight. Currently I am using a 6ft MH Browning/Lews Graphite spinning rod with a graphite Tenn Handle (no cork or foam - all graphite).
The reel is important, too. UL reels have small diameter spools ... the problem there being that the line is in small coils on the spool, so any memory problems are magnified on a long shot under a dock. A reel with a wider/larger diameter spool is going to make the shot go farther, and memory coils will play less of a role. I am currently using a Shimano Spirex 2000 spinning reel on my B/L rod ... but that is only because it's the one I had on it, when I used it for Bass fishing. The outfit is actually a "medium" Bass fishing setup, and so is "heavy" in comparison to my other Crappie rigs. I've just used so many different types and weights of rod/reel combos, in my fishing life, that it doesn't bother me to switch back and forth from UL to Heavy action setups. Some possible choices for "dock shooting reels" are: Mitchell Spidercast, Mitchell 300X series, Mitchell Avocet series, Shimano's in the 1000 series (from the TX model up to the Spirex), and the Okuma UL10 ... all depending on price range, bearing count, handle style, weight, and spool diameter. My "personal" preference would be a Shimano Spirex 1000 ... simply because I like the trigger, two handles with ergonomic grips (I don't like barrel grips), and the Shimano customer service. Second to that would be the Spidercast. I do admit, however, that I have not used any of the other reels mentioned ... but I do plan on checking out the Okuma's, whenever they arrive at my local tackle shop.
Line - therein lies the demon .... you need a strong line, small diameter, yet a soft and supple line that doesn't have great memory problems ... and it doesn't hurt if the line is easily visable to the angler !! (sometimes it's just the slightest "tic" in the line that signals a bite). I've used a dozen different lines ... and the jury is still out on which is best, overall. My suggestion would be to use whatever line you are most confident in, that does the job for you, whether it be mono - co-polymer - fluorocarbon - or braid. Just stay away from the bulk "bargain" lines at Wallyworld or other such places - except as "backing" line. :D
Baits - compact, solid body baits, like the Panfish Assassin, seem to "skip" better when shooting .... jighead weights range from 1/64 - 1/32 - 1/24 - 1/16oz ... depending on the rate of fall necessary to catch the attention of the fish. That doesn't discount the tubes (hollow or solid) and other styles of plastic bodies. With the right equipment - they can be shot under a dock with equal results.
A little practice, beforehand, will keep you from sending your jig flying into any number of obstacles inherent to a boat dock .... or sending that "warning" THUNK or TANG sound, when you missfire and hit wood/metal/fiberglass :rolleyes: !! All you want is the splash sound of the jig skipping across the surface of the water ... it's a more natural sound, to get the attention of the Crappie and get them to look for the source of that sound. ...................luck2ya .................cp![]()


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