Thread: Terrova with I-Link

I just purchased a Minn Kota Terrova with I-Link for my Tracker 175. It's a 12 volt system with 55 thrust. I'm wondering if the wire used for the Motorguide is big enough for the Terrova?

Secondly, install appears to be straight forward and easy. I'm running a Hummingbird 788 HD DI up front, so I will not be using the built in universal transducer. I've watched two UTube videos on how to run transducer wires through the shaft and out the I-Link head.

I know I will need an Ethernet Hub to tie the two Hummingbird units and I-Link together so they can share data.

Anybody know of anything else I may need or should be prepared for?

Thanks,
TG

I have the tracker pro team 190, upgraded to the 112 terrova i-pilot 36v, used the factory tm wireing in the boat and have not had any issues.

I will try and post some photos tomorrow of how my transducer is mounted. Being a guide, I use it just about every day. After replacing the transducer four times now, I have learned a thing or two. However, the unit sticking out in front is nothing but a pain. I had to adjust my trailer to fix the loading and unloading problem but I see no way to remedy the dock issue, yet.

I use this bracket on my Ranger

MKA-47 UNIVERSAL QUICK RELEASE BRACKET | Minn Kota Motors

It will slide back and lock in place. When you get ready to fish slide forward and lock in place.

The MKA-47 is fantastic! I Guide and sometimes need to swap out my Terrova for the ForTrex. I can swap them out in about 10 minutes.

You will also need the Humminbird AS ES QDE (Ethernet Dongle) and an Ethernet cable for each unit you are trying to connect to the Ethernet Hub.

Humminbird Ethernet Dongle 700 Quick Disconnect Adapter Cable for 700, 800, 900 & 1100 Series | Bass Pro Shops

Finally got back to your post... The big problems with using an external transducer is how to mount it, how to keep it from stretching the cable, and how to keep the cable from being damaged when stowing. I have included some pictures to show how I solved these issues. First, I recommend you watch some YouTube videos on how to run and silicone the transducer cable down the shaft.

1) I use the high speed transducers because it does not produce as much drag, in my opinion. The transducer is mounted to the trolling motor head via a Transducer Shield bracket, which give it wonderful protection.


2) My biggest problem has been damaging the cable. I solved this problem by cutting the end off the threaded end of a sprinkler head, cutting an elongated slot in the side, and then silicone it in place. This prevents the head from coming back too far and damaging the cable. the reason for the sprinkler head is the large neck at the base. I am sure PVC pipe or other things could be used but I wanted the extra big base for protection.


3) I finish with two zip ties just below the head. Which prevents the height adjustment from slipping up to far and damaging the cable.


I sure hope this helps you from buying as many transducers as I have had to buy.

Great pictures... much appreciated.

Originally Posted by TETF

Finally got back to your post... The big problems with using an external transducer is how to mount it, how to keep it from stretching the cable, and how to keep the cable from being damaged when stowing. I have included some pictures to show how I solved these issues. First, I recommend you watch some YouTube videos on how to run and silicone the transducer cable down the shaft.

1) I use the high speed transducers because it does not produce as much drag, in my opinion. The transducer is mounted to the trolling motor head via a Transducer Shield bracket, which give it wonderful protection.


2) My biggest problem has been damaging the cable. I solved this problem by cutting the end off the threaded end of a sprinkler head, cutting an elongated slot in the side, and then silicone it in place. This prevents the head from coming back too far and damaging the cable. the reason for the sprinkler head is the large neck at the base. I am sure PVC pipe or other things could be used but I wanted the extra big base for protection.


3) I finish with two zip ties just below the head. Which prevents the height adjustment from slipping up to far and damaging the cable.


I sure hope this helps you from buying as many transducers as I have had to buy.

It looks like from your pic that your are stopping your transducer cable before running it up through the head of your trolling motor. That is what is tearing up your cables, I don't think you will have as much trouble if your run them through. And I think your transducer is on backwards too

Originally Posted by clfarms1

And I think your transducer is on backwards too

The XNT 9 DI T housing is designed for water flow dynamics ...

But as for the function of it ... There is no front or rear in a DI fan beam ... Nor a 2d cone beam ...

Only SI (and HB Quadrabeam) have left, right, front, rear ...

One can even backtroll with a DI unit and the displayed DI echoes will still enter the display screen on the right ... And scroll towards the left on the display ...

Rickie

Thank you so much for taking the time to send me this information. I truly appreciate it.

I've watched all the UTube videos on the subject. I bought a MK-47 mount and have my Ethernet switch ready to go. I plan on picking my boat up Saturday and begin the project if the weather warms up some.

Thanks again for all the advice and photos.
I'll post pics when the job is complete.

Regards,

TG