powder paint problems

[laserdoc]

Yes I have that cure time chart. I hold the jig with hemostats by the eye when I heat and dip into the fluid bed. I don't have a problem with the eyes filling with paint just the nipple drip. I wonder if the higher temp would make it cure faster causing less drip instead of lowering the temp.Or really drop the temp down to 200 for 30 min.I had been using 300 for 13 min and got the drip

[LedHed]

LD
The “cure chart” can maybe put you in the ballpark. Your oven, temperature controller, and monitoring point would have to be very similar to the equipment used to develop the chart.
How are you measuring your temp – are you actually curing at 300F? If you are going by where your temp set point is (on your dial) – 13 min. isn’t really enough time for your chamber to stabilize. And does your dial reading correlate to the actual temp? You have to know the characteristics of your curing chamber.

Get a type T thermocouple reader (could be expensive) and place the probe in the center of your chamber and monitor temperature while you cure.

Another problem is the majority of ovens have thermostatic control and they aren’t very accurate and they take awhile to stabilize. When you start the unit the temperature will over shoot, in some cases as much as 50F – this cause a lot of the drips/sags. Then the unit will under shoot to get back to set point and does this until the delta (difference between the high and the low) is about +/- 5F of set point. These are generalized numbers – some units might run tighter and some not. Pre heating is good if you can’t or don’t want to manual control.

Because I blend different paints - usually try to control at 310F to 320F for 20 minutes (minimum – sometimes longer). Primary oven’s starting set point is 250F and the unit will ramp up to 320F – when the temp starts backing down to about 300F, I slowly increase the set point – have to do this a couple of times. You can actually here the heating element going on and off. It takes this oven about 10-15 min. to stabilize with ~3F delta around 315F.

You can also use a TCU (temperature control unit) for some precise temp control. Have built two for making plastic baits. One with a Watlow controller and the other unit has Watlow micro processor – they control temp by limiting current, soak time, and ramp time – extremely accurate.

If you are going to do single colors – get/make a fluid bed. I hardly ever use one – mostly brushes now.

Hope it makes sense.

[laserdoc]

LD
The “cure chart” can maybe put you in the ballpark. Your oven, temperature controller, and monitoring point would have to be very similar to the equipment used to develop the chart.
How are you measuring your temp – are you actually curing at 300F? If you are going by where your temp set point is (on your dial) – 13 min. isn’t really enough time for your chamber to stabilize. And does your dial reading correlate to the actual temp? You have to know the characteristics of your curing chamber.

Get a type T thermocouple reader (could be expensive) and place the probe in the center of your chamber and monitor temperature while you cure.

Another problem is the majority of ovens have thermostatic control and they aren’t very accurate and they take awhile to stabilize. When you start the unit the temperature will over shoot, in some cases as much as 50F – this cause a lot of the drips/sags. Then the unit will under shoot to get back to set point and does this until the delta (difference between the high and the low) is about +/- 5F of set point. These are generalized numbers – some units might run tighter and some not. Pre heating is good if you can’t or don’t want to manual control.

Because I blend different paints - usually try to control at 310F to 320F for 20 minutes (minimum – sometimes longer). Primary oven’s starting set point is 250F and the unit will ramp up to 320F – when the temp starts backing down to about 300F, I slowly increase the set point – have to do this a couple of times. You can actually here the heating element going on and off. It takes this oven about 10-15 min. to stabilize with ~3F delta around 315F.

You can also use a TCU (temperature control unit) for some precise temp control. Have built two for making plastic baits. One with a Watlow controller and the other unit has Watlow micro processor – they control temp by limiting current, soak time, and ramp time – extremely accurate.

If you are going to do single colors – get/make a fluid bed. I hardly ever use one – mostly brushes now.

Hope it makes sense.

I do use a fluid bed. I have a thermometer that I use in my smoke that has a probe and is digital. Cost me 50 bucks. Guess I will use that tomorrow and see where it settles in at
thanks that does help

[Jiggin_Joe]

I never seem to have aproblem with black but do with white or yellow. I have a fluid bed now and dont see it as much if ever. the bake times and temps never seem to work right for me so i just set my temp at 275 when it gets to temp I put them in for 25 minutes and that seems to work good. I might try next batch at 350 for 15 minutes and see if the drip. Oh and if I read your 1st post right did you say you put the head in the paint for a 2count? if so thats way to long all you do is a quick swish and tap off that might be some of the problem also

[laserdoc]

I never seem to have aproblem with black but do with white or yellow. I have a fluid bed now and dont see it as much if ever. the bake times and temps never seem to work right for me so i just set my temp at 275 when it gets to temp I put them in for 25 minutes and that seems to work good. I might try next batch at 350 for 15 minutes and see if the drip. Oh and if I read your 1st post right did you say you put the head in the paint for a 2count? if so thats way to long all you do is a quick swish and tap off that might be some of the problem also

Will try to cut the swish time down some to a 1 count

[Fatman]

LedHed

I have a temp guage in the oven, and I keep a strict eye on it to make sure it stays there.

Fatman

[laserdoc]

Well I had two 1/32 jigs that had a bad nipple on them. I took a grinder to the two of them and recurred them both for 15 min at 350 ish. They recurred just fine and did not have a rough spot!
I checked my oven with my $50.00 smoker thermometer and she is only 5 to 7 degrees on the low side when set to 350. So I bumped it up to around 354 and it is 349-352 . Getting ready to paint a bunch of heads and try the new time of 20 min and 350

[yellowmattie]

Talked to the people at CSI and they told me that black and white in particular have some ingredients in them that make them "heavy" and pick up more paint. What I did but I am only doing for myself was I bought a rack from CSI made to stand the jigs in and cure. This way any excess will run down hook shank and not create what I call nipple heads. Works great. You can buy any lengths of this rack. I bought 2 sections that fit in my toaster oven good and I can cure about 35 to 40 at a time on the two racks. No more nipple heads.

[Doc Crappie]

Talked to the people at CSI and they told me that black and white in particular have some ingredients in them that make them "heavy" and pick up more paint. What I did but I am only doing for myself was I bought a rack from CSI made to stand the jigs in and cure. This way any excess will run down hook shank and not create what I call nipple heads. Works great. You can buy any lengths of this rack. I bought 2 sections that fit in my toaster oven good and I can cure about 35 to 40 at a time on the two racks. No more nipple heads.

you have a link where you can get the racks from would like to check it out

[yellowmattie]

go to csipaint.com---go to products----look for aluminum clamping racks. These are the people that make pro-tec paints