Lead Pot Problem

[robbor]

Im working on making my own stainless steel lead pot. Ive never seen the mechanism, but it is supposedly a pintle valve of some sort. Everyone complains that they leak. I think id try cleaning out the pot and disconnecting the valve and trying to lap the mating surfaces with lapping compound(gun crap-jb paste) or maybe flitz. I will have to find one to look at soon. The bottom is being welded onto my pot now. I already drilled and tapped a hole on the bottom so i still need to make the valve.

[Barnacle Bill]

How much wax do you add to say a 10lb pot?

[robbor]

I believe you just use a small piece of way such as a 5/16" ball of wax for fluxing. They say to get a toilit seal and it should quite a while.

[redear]

thanks for the heads up on the fluxing guys, gonna try it next time. but I am curious as to what and how a peice of wax works to make lead pour better. I mean I can invision it catching fire and staying on top as you are trying to stir it in. Also, does this wax thingy do the same thing as a peice of solder? Is it lubricating the lead? or just helping remove the impurities? at any rate I'm gonna try it.

[redear]

was thinkin about the leaky pot thing. this is just my take on things. I think that when the lead starts to melt, the bottom and middle of the pot become liquid first, and the top is the last to melt. I think the melting lead is expanding slightly due to the temp rise, and the top crust is still gripping the valve rod, because it hasn't melted yet, and this expansion under the top crust lifts the rod slightly by pushing up on the whole shebang. cause when the top liquifies then all that stuff just works itself out.I emptied my pot one time to see if there was anything in there, and there wasn't, so I rarely do that anymore.

[Fatman]

I use old candle wax for my fluxing, pieces about the size of my pinkie nail :D I know sounds bad LOL After you put it in if it doesn't catch fire light it with a long nose grill lighter. It helps clean the lead by bringing any oxidation or impurities to the top of the pot where they can be scraped out. And it seems the lead flows better and I'm just gonna throw the wax away anyway so it isn't costing me anything.

If you refill you pot for a second batch re-flux!! I think all bottom pours leak they get old.

I don't know if they're still doing it but at one time you could send your pot back and for half the cost of a new one you could get yours all fixed up. I did it once along time ago before I bought my second one and at that time it only cost me about $27. I may email them and find out if they're still doing this.

Fatman

[GrouseFly]

To my knowledge there is nothing no more aggravating than a dripping pot..lol. I have one in the shop right now I have to fix for a bullet pouring buddy of mine. Here's my method for reworking a pot...I melt the lead that is in it. You can use the warm-up chambers on the bottom of most molds to catch your lead in to remelt. After the pot is empty and COOLS COMPLETELY, you can start the process. I take the screws out that holds the lifter arm in place and set them all to the side. I take some light sandpaper and sand the pin, paying close attention to the bottom that fits in the pouring channel. I then take a round chainsaw file and clean out the pour hole. You may have to use a old knife to get the sides, once you use it for this , keep it for this, don't start peeling apples with it again...lol. Then use the knife to scrap all the junk of the sides and anywhere else you see something that doesn't belong. After you get all the junk out and have it as clean as you can possibly get it, put it all back together and begin melting lead again. If it starts to drip while you are pouring always keep a screw driver handy to twist the plunger rod back and forth and this will usually cure the drippin' for the moment. The wire from the bottom will work too, BUT BE CAREFUL, cause it goes everywhere, and as you know, once it hits yea, YOU ARE BURNT!!!! SO BE CAREFUL and GOOD LUCK....

[ifish]

I just tap the rod down toward the hole a couple of times with something solid. A commercial pourer showed me this trick. Please do not move a pot with hot lead. Many pourers have been seriously injured messing around with a hot liquid pot.

[Phydiox]

all the above and... use clean lead to start with. if you fish enuff to pour your own lead i know you have a propane fish cooker. start by melting your lead into ingots using and old cast iron pot and the propane burner. cleaner lead leaves less residue. and most importantly wear gloves. it is a common misconception that the danger from lead is from inhalation. WRONG! lead inters the body thru the pores of the skin. IE,thru yer fingers and hands. wear long sleave shirts and gloves. lead is obsorbed into the blood but will not leave the liver, this is what kills you. be ye fishers of men,then you can fish everyday!

[fishnfwl]

was thinkin about the leaky pot thing. this is just my take on things. I think that when the lead starts to melt, the bottom and middle of the pot become liquid first, and the top is the last to melt. I think the melting lead is expanding slightly due to the temp rise, and the top crust is still gripping the valve rod, because it hasn't melted yet, and this expansion under the top crust lifts the rod slightly by pushing up on the whole shebang. cause when the top liquifies then all that stuff just works itself out.I emptied my pot one time to see if there was anything in there, and there wasn't, so I rarely do that anymore.

I have to agree with ya on this