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Thread: Wiring question for Tom

  1. #21
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    Thank you Tom! I should be able to figure it out with what you have done for me. It's much appreciated!
    Reaper, Where Fish come to Fry

  2. #22
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    Tom, I used a meter to check which posts the switch works. The unmarked post and the "D" post are what the switch turns on and off. I cannot get any meter readings on the two "F" posts, but they are connected inside according to the meter. I could not get either of the "F" posts to read when connecting them to either the unmarked or the "D" post.

    I went ahead and connected the unmarked and the "D" post to a hot terminal, with the other going to a bilge pump. The other end of the bilge was connected to the Neg terminal. Switch off, nothing, switch on=bilge on. In other words, I can make the switch work, but can't figure how to get the LED to work. I know there is a simple solution, I just am stupid with anything beyond a basic connection. Any hints?

    BTW, I understand the multi switch location diagram. Fairly simple. My only problem now is to get the dadburn LED's to work.
    Reaper, Where Fish come to Fry

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crappie Reaper View Post
    Tom, I used a meter to check which posts the switch works. The unmarked post and the "D" post are what the switch turns on and off. I cannot get any meter readings on the two "F" posts, but they are connected inside according to the meter. I could not get either of the "F" posts to read when connecting them to either the unmarked or the "D" post.

    I went ahead and connected the unmarked and the "D" post to a hot terminal, with the other going to a bilge pump. The other end of the bilge was connected to the Neg terminal. Switch off, nothing, switch on=bilge on. In other words, I can make the switch work, but can't figure how to get the LED to work. I know there is a simple solution, I just am stupid with anything beyond a basic connection. Any hints?

    BTW, I understand the multi switch location diagram. Fairly simple. My only problem now is to get the dadburn LED's to work.

    Turn the switch on and ground one of the F posts. One should come on when the switch is turned on.


    did you wire it up like my last drawing? Rear view of switch drawing.
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  4. #24
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    Be sure it is fused........!!!!!!!
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  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cane Pole View Post


    did you wire it up like my last drawing? Rear view of switch drawing.
    I just did a bench test connecting a bilge to one switch. Am just trying to figure out the switch posts before I start installing and connecting.

    So, if I re-connect it like I had it and the switch worked the bilge properly, are you saying connect one of the "f"'s to ground? Sounds good to me. I'll try again tommorrow, too pooped to pop for tonight. Thanks!
    Reaper, Where Fish come to Fry

  6. #26
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    Wired like the last diagram. Bilge works but still no LED. Even tried 3 different switches just in case LED may be bad. I also tried reversing polarity to no avail. Am beginning to think both "F" posts may need to be connected. They do meter out when using the ohm meter, wether switch is on or off, so am guessing 2nd post could be for continuation purposes.

    Google search for wiring a 4 post comes up blank. I might just give the seller a call to see if he knows.
    Reaper, Where Fish come to Fry

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crappie Reaper View Post
    Wired like the last diagram. Bilge works but still no LED. Even tried 3 different switches just in case LED may be bad. I also tried reversing polarity to no avail. Am beginning to think both "F" posts may need to be connected. They do meter out when using the ohm meter, wether switch is on or off, so am guessing 2nd post could be for continuation purposes.

    Google search for wiring a 4 post comes up blank. I might just give the seller a call to see if he knows.
    The manufacturer usually has an internal drawing of the switch. I can't find it.
    I will keep looking
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  8. #28
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    I got it. One of the F's goes to ground. The other goes to unswitched hot for full time LED, or I can run it off the switched side to turn on only when the switch is turned on (which is my choice). Bench tested out fine. I just farted around with things till I found it. Thanks again for the help!
    Reaper, Where Fish come to Fry

  9. #29
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    Just wanted to say thanks for your help Tom. All systems are go.

    I made the lid removable for easy access to all the switch backs and the wiring down below.










    I don't think I ever installed more than one switch at one time. The six LED lights with switches in front and back were taxing my mind, but extremely simple in the long run.

    Thanks again!
    Reaper, Where Fish come to Fry

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