Quote Originally Posted by rojoguio View Post
Couple of things, I hold a USCG Unlimited Chief Engineers License so this was a big part of earlier life. First the type of wire you run should be Tinned DC wire, lots of little strands to prevent Counter EMF. Stranded AC wire or Automotive grade will have a higher resistance to electron flow. Second is the terminals used, you want Silver plated Copper only. To further reduce voltage drop after crimping solder them. Adhesive lined Shrink Tubing applied to a bare soldered terminal is a Top Shelf way to terminate. Back to front like you are running 10 gauge wire is the minimum size I ran for electronics on these 24ft Bay Boats when in my shop for a T-Top. I run a single pair then install sub-distribution equipment in the bow. Blue Sea Systems fuse bus with ground distribution is all I use they come with a clear Cover/Guard. Sum of the voltage drops equals source voltage, wire quality & size - termination quality - and in some cases Induction can lead in good direction or bad. You don't want your supply wire to run next to the trolling motor supply wire due to Induction. Anytime I have had to run supply lines next to DC Motor supply lines shielding over the wire must be used.
Hence the reason I only use Ancor marine wire and Ancor marine heat shrinkable connectors on EVERYTHING in my boat. I also have 2 Blue Seas fuse boxes. I also have 3 amperage/voltage monitors, one on my livescope lithium, one on my trolling motor lithiums in series, and one for later use. Along with battery meters on my two AGM Optima Blue tops (one for cranking, and the other is for lights, pumps, stereo system), and on my two lithiums for my ghost trolling motor. I can see at a glance if there is an issue with any of the batteries. Plus everything is switched. I went way overkill, but I did it right the first time and won't have to do it again.