Perspective Mode

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Originally Posted by FurFlyin

What angle do you run your ducer? I had mine fairly flat, parallel to the surface of the water. I was in 4-7 FOW.

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Just depends on depth. I watch my screen to see when I’m getting too many wave returns. I always have it tilted slightly at those depth. I’d say 5-10 degrees nose down if I was guessing. Turn down the gain quite a bit and play with the angle, I’d bet you’ll be pleasantly surprised.

Sorry, it a great answer I know.

And if fish are at say 10 foot depth in 30 FOW, I’ll tilt it a bit more to see the most fish. With my PVC pole on a RAM mount I can play with the angle with it deployed to get the best picture. Then I can adjust the transducer mount up or down as needed to keep the pole level.

I was definitely seeing every wave when the wind would blow a little. Sounds like our mounts are almost identical. I'll try tilting it a little more nose down. Thanks.

It helps to tilt the tranducer less in shallow water and more in deep water. Attachment 390584

Oh well, I am going to stop all of this got to have stuff, my catch rate is about the same with Live Scope & DI, SI & HD. I waste to much time looking instead of fishing, My 2cts.

Well, I made the leap and broke down and ordered livescope.

Ordered this head unit:
Attachment 391053

And then the livescope having a $200 rebate was just more than I could stand. Excited, but hoping for no buyers remorse haha. Everything I’ve seen and experienced (have fished with it a few times on a relatives boat) says I won’t though.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by DHC

Well, I made the leap and broke down and ordered livescope.

Ordered this head unit:
Attachment 391053

And then the livescope having a $200 rebate was just more than I could stand. Excited, but hoping for no buyers remorse haha. Everything I’ve seen and experienced (have fished with it a few times on a relatives boat) says I won’t though.


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Same setup I have. Don’t take shortcuts on your install and you’ll be very happy.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mikear

Same setup I have. Don’t take shortcuts on your install and you’ll be very happy.

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Any shortcuts in particularly I need to be cautioned of? All of this is new to me so looking for all the info I can soak up


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by DHC

Any shortcuts in particularly I need to be cautioned of? All of this is new to me so looking for all the info I can soak up


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Don’t use zip ties on the transducer cable
1. Use electrical tape or velcro to attach the transducer cable to your pole or trolling motor. Zip ties can damage the cable.

Don’t use undersized power wiring
2. Ensure you have adequate wire size for the load of your 93SV and GLS10 (black box). This system is sensitive to low voltage which you can get from undersized wiring. Most factory harnesses are too small and can cause too much voltage drop for these units to optimally operate. Depending on your electronics battery location you may need to run up to 8 AWG wire to power both the GLS10 and 93SV, or two runs of up to 10 AWG (one for each). I just put a battery in a storage compartment near my bow that is dedicated to the GLS10 and head unit. This limited my wiring distance, thus minimizing voltage drop.

Add a switch to the black box power supply
3. The GLS10 has minimal amp draw even when powered down. Garmin recommends a switch to isolate it from the battery. Won’t hurt anything unless you store your boat for extended periods without charging the battery. I installed a rocker switch up front for the GLS10 so I don’t have to worry about it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mikear

Don’t use zip ties on the transducer cable
1. Use electrical tape or velcro to attach the transducer cable to your pole or trolling motor. Zip ties can damage the cable.

Don’t use undersized power wiring
2. Ensure you have adequate wire size for the load of your 93SV and GLS10 (black box). This system is sensitive to low voltage which you can get from undersized wiring. Most factory harnesses are too small and can cause too much voltage drop for these units to optimally operate. Depending on your electronics battery location you may need to run up to 8 AWG wire to power both the GLS10 and 93SV, or two runs of up to 10 AWG (one for each). I just put a battery in a storage compartment near my bow that is dedicated to the GLS10 and head unit. This limited my wiring distance, thus minimizing voltage drop.

Add a switch to the black box power supply
3. The GLS10 has minimal amp draw even when powered down. Garmin recommends a switch to isolate it from the battery. Won’t hurt anything unless you store your boat for extended periods without charging the battery. I installed a rocker switch up front for the GLS10 so I don’t have to worry about it.

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Great advice. Thank you!


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by DHC

Great advice. Thank you!


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No problem. If you have any questions just ask.