Likes Likes:  0
Thanks Thanks:  0
HaHa HaHa:  0
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 17 of 17

Thread: Wiring unit on bow

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tn
    Posts
    4,397
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default


    you can try hooking the bow unit up to the fuse panel, if you get interference, THEN run some seperate/new power/grd wires. I was able to run seperate power wires from the cranking batt to the bow under the floor on my Tracker PT175 w/o much trouble but you may have troubles as you've indicated. I have my HDS 8 wired into the fuse panel at the console, it stays on the entire time I'm on the water, and does not blink or go goofy when I crank up the 60hp. My cranking battery is 4 or 5 yrs old as well.
    GO BIG ORANGE !

    I meant to behave, but there were just way too many other options available at the time.

  2. #12
    Barnacle Bill's Avatar
    Barnacle Bill is offline Super Mod and 2014 Crappie.com Man of the Year * Crappie.com Supporter
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Chesapeake, Va
    Posts
    20,251
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobberStopper View Post
    What do you mean by "twisted pair"? Should I run power wires from the front back to the cranking battery...If so, what size wire would you recommend?
    See This
    Fair Winds and Following Seas

    Bill H. PTC USN Ret
    Chesapeake, Va


  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    200
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    So is 18 gauge big enough to run 20 foot, actually 40 foot if I twist them, for the 858c HD DI?

  4. #14
    Corker's Avatar
    Corker is offline Crappie.com 1K Star General - Sponsor
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Toano, VA
    Posts
    5,133
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    The specs for your finder show a power draw of 0.78 amps with the lights off. The backlighting is done with LEDs, so the max power draw is somewhat higher. For the sake of discussion, let's call it a max draw of 1 amp.

    Using this online calculator with 18 awg, 2-wire, copper, 12v, 3% max drop (recommended by Blue Sea and others for marine electronics), and a 1 amp load, you get a max length of 22.6'. If this is the right data (Bill, please confirm), then you should move up to at least 14 ga.

    You'll probably fuse this line at 3 amps and may later decide to add another load, so maybe you should use 3 amps instead of 1 amp in the calculation (??). If that's the case, the calculator says you will need 10 ga. wire.

    If there's any way to add a battery up front, the results change drastically. With the full 3 amp draw, the calculator says it's fine to use up to 7.5' (3.75' after twisting) of 18 ga. wire.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Louisiana
    Posts
    141
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Thanks Bill, great info and very educational....

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    North Central Arkansas
    Posts
    1,860
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I hooked one of mine to the bow nav light circuit. Works fine--just have to turn the nav light switch on.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Carencro, Louisiana
    Posts
    8,309
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Barnacle Bill View Post
    See This
    You're right Bill. Also did that with my underground dog fence. Surround the perimeter, then twisted the pair back to my shop where the transmitter is at. Cancels the signal out at my lab's collars.

    Corker is right about wire size - if it's stranded. I choose solid core when I can. My two cents.
    Randy Andres

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

BACK TO TOP