Google up some battery switches. I use them on robots.
Something like this. Don't loose the key. It is not real small, but can handle the current.
http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/S-D-420600-1/
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Hoped someone would have a good suggestion to add a power supply disconnect feeding my trolling motor. I recently added an I-Pilot and currently don't have a disconnect. So for now I am disconnecting the batteries until I get to the boat ramp.
I have (2) 12V Batteries in Parallel running my MK 55 Trolling Motor which is direct wired. I chose this over having a male/female plug. In the past with the old trolling motor I had a bad habit of stepping on the plug connection and bending the pins. The location for this on my Seark Forecast170 is not the best.
The ideal thought is a rocker switch on the front panel. I have a switch there now for the tilt/trim that allows access when fishing from the front seat without moving back to the console.
The problem is I haven't found a switch heavy enough in my mind to take the load to the trolling motor.
I've considered adding a disconnect back at the batteries but I am very, very limited on space.
I sure hope someone has a suggestion of something I've not thought about.
Thanks - Robert
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Google up some battery switches. I use them on robots.
Something like this. Don't loose the key. It is not real small, but can handle the current.
http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/S-D-420600-1/
Last edited by Cane Pole; 03-30-2010 at 12:52 PM.
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As a side note and something to keep in mind. I have personally experienced one bad battery pulling the other down when you run two batteries in parallel, (Positive to Positive, Neg to Neg) while in storage. This may be a rare occurance but this happened to me. I had a battery that developed an internal short and the bad battery would pull the good battery down with it just sitting. As you are getting your wiring in order, you might see if you can easily and cheaply break the connection of the two batteries while not on the water in case one develops an issue that might pull the other down. I personally use some Anderson Connectors (available numerous places including ebay) but one needs to at least be somewhat talented with soldering the connectors when installing. They are relatively inexpensive and when installed correctly very reliable. Ebay item # 370088232090 is an example of what I use but they are available other places as well. They MUST be soldered in to be reliable as a crimped connection is asking for trouble in my opinion.
I installed one of these in the battery compartment of my boat and it's one of the best things I ever did as far as prolonging the life of my TM battery.
Cabela's -- Ranger Style 50-amp Circuit Breaker
Just flip the switch to off at the end of the day and no worries.
You mentioned a 55# trolling motor, so I assume it's just 12 volts. This one is certainly more expensive than the others, but it will let you select off, using #1 battery, #2 battery, or both at the same time.
I use these - made by Minn-Kota. Wiring is 10 ga.
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Team Dude Wipes
try a race car shop or Jegs or Summit they use them on pro stocks to kill the power all u do is turn it on or off or push pull.
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Thaks for all the good ideas. Hopefully I will get this taken care of before the weekend. Thanks again. Robert
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On my 80/24 volt MK Terrova, I installed a 50 amp Double pole Single throw toggle switch on the bow console and direct wired mine also. Rocker will work fine too. I googled the switch up and ordered it off the i-net. Been using it for a while now and it works good for my needs.
Last edited by luvin.fishin; 03-31-2010 at 08:23 AM.
Back in the day I was a heavy equipment mechanic for Waste Management. All of the trucks are required to have a battery disconnect switch. You should be able to pick one up at any auto parts store. Mount it on your boat, run wires from your batteries to the switch and from there to your TM. You just rotate the switch to open and close the circuit and you can lock it out with a padlock if the need arises.