Thread: another ipilot signal problem

Originally Posted by hays47

Before troubleshooting too much more I would suggest trying a good known battery. Batteries can display correct voltage but fail to provide necessary amperage. Placing a load on a battery and then taking a voltage reading will help detection of a problem.

I used to use a car headlight lamp for a load. Then compare voltage reading with load ( the light ) and no load. One cell going bad in a battery will cause havoc with electronics. The more complicated they are the more severe reaction. A cell going bad would limit current flow and a voltage drop under load.

Most of the time 12 volt circuit problems can be traced to a faulty connection or bad battery. If the circuitry has been good up to the point of the I-pilot motor. I would suspect the battery before I would the motor. As my old electronics instructor used to tell me " always eliminate the easiest and cheapest fix first. " Its not impossible for a new motor to have problems but its unlikely. The older the battery the more likely it is the culprit.

I agree.

I got out Sunday afternoon to play with the i-pilot. Moving the battery to the bow helped. No extra wire between the battery and t-motor. This is all new equipment including boat, battery, t-motor etc. Only old thing in the boat is me. And I know a new battery can be bad.

At first the i-pilot would work ok till the motor speed got around 8 or above, then lost GPS signal still. I played around with it for about an hour then notice it was working perfect at any speed. Play with spot lock, record track, cruise, advance auto pilot. All worked great for about 2 hours running then started losing GPS again at high speed.

All the while I had a volt meter between battery ground and t-motor side of the breaker hooked to the battery. Voltage stayed ok above 12. I also got more speed out of the t-motor (old best speed 1.5 – 1.7; new speed 2 – 2.3) so I think the battery will stay up front.

I am going to have to play more after the snow melts and I have time for some full days on the water before I call minn-kota.

Ky crappie guy has a replacement coming because of GPS signal problems. I hope he post if the new unit fixes his problem.

Originally Posted by WE16

I got out Sunday afternoon to play with the i-pilot. Moving the battery to the bow helped. No extra wire between the battery and t-motor. This is all new equipment including boat, battery, t-motor etc. Only old thing in the boat is me. And I know a new battery can be bad.

At first the i-pilot would work ok till the motor speed got around 8 or above, then lost GPS signal still. I played around with it for about an hour then notice it was working perfect at any speed. Play with spot lock, record track, cruise, advance auto pilot. All worked great for about 2 hours running then started losing GPS again at high speed.

All the while I had a volt meter between battery ground and t-motor side of the breaker hooked to the battery. Voltage stayed ok above 12. I also got more speed out of the t-motor (old best speed 1.5 – 1.7; new speed 2 – 2.3) so I think the battery will stay up front.

I am going to have to play more after the snow melts and I have time for some full days on the water before I call minn-kota.

Ky crappie guy has a replacement coming because of GPS signal problems. I hope he post if the new unit fixes his problem.

I did'nt get it today like I was hoping! But my ipilot is doing exactly like yours, when I power it up I have a signal then loose it if I troll at a high setting like 8 or above. Haven't said anything about the speed not being what i thought it should but just as you said my old 71# thrust motor guide would push it 2.5 mph plus and this 80# maybe 1.1mph.
mine is a 24 volt system but could move the batterys if thats what it takes

Mine Doesn`t Have A Footpedal And Not Sure If It Is Doing It At High Powers. I Am Longlining And Trying To Go Between .8 To 1.2 Mph.

Talked to Dave a Minn Kota today and he recommended I try a 6 guage wire since my batteries are 20 ft away. I did run them direct and got the same results just as soon as I hit the 8 setting the signal was gone.
So I am going to have the batteries checked tomorrow, I expect that to be the problem. a battery going bad can cause a lot of unexpected problems with electronics.
they are older than I thought (april 2007)

Originally Posted by ky crappie guy

Talked to Dave a Minn Kota today and he recommended I try a 6 guage wire since my batteries are 20 ft away. I did run them direct and got the same results just as soon as I hit the 8 setting the signal was gone.
So I am going to have the batteries checked tomorrow, I expect that to be the problem. a battery going bad can cause a lot of unexpected problems with electronics.
they are older than I thought (april 2007)

Let us know what you find.. When I moved my battery (which is new ) to the bow used only the wiring that was on the t-motor and it helped but did not fix. I may swap my start (also new) and trolling motor battery next time to test the battery.

crappielimits, watch the top of your remote. It will tell you (1 to 10) the setting of your motor while your speed is down in the left bottom. Of course during the time the unit has no GPS signal, it can not tell you its speed. I think the 1 to 10 power setting will always display if the motor is running.

I Did Notice Today Mine Would Definitely Lose Signal If Moving At Higher Powers. So Gonna Get Battery Checked Out. Thanks For Help.

You boys got battery problems. Plain and simple. 6 guage is the way to go for a boat over 16 ft or above 12V. Neither of you mention the group size on your batts either? You ain't trying to cheat with 27s or 24s are ya?

Seriously, I suspect your batts in both cases. Borrow or beg a known good one. And a battery reading 12V ain't fully charged to start with.

Wannabe...