If you put some weight on the main line you should be OK with pushing jigs or cranks. Depending on what your rods can handle, you could start out with 1/2oz and work your way up to 2oz to see what weights & speeds work best to keep your lines at a 45deg angle. Just understand that a 45deg angle is mainly used for calculating the depth your bait is running, by multiplying the length of line out (below the surface) by 0.6 (approximate depth of your weight)
But, you just have to remember that when you're using weights above your baits, that you have to be constantly moving forward (esp w/cranks) ... even when hung up or landing a fish ... otherwise the weight on the other rod(s) is going to pull your bait towards the bottom. Not too bad a deal if the depth of water you're in is greater than the length of line out, and you're in open water or over a fairly clear bottom.
Now, in your case, since you're only running two rods ... one gets hung, then open the reel and put it back in the holder & reel the other one up ... then go back and try to free the hung bait. Get on the other side of where you are hung and drop the weight down ... that'll usually free a hung jig. Not so sure about a hung crank, though ... but they do make "lure knockers" that will do the trick (sometimes).
As far as turning & not crossing lines ... you should be OK, as long as you don't make a "Bat Turn"
And I know how you feel ... I run a 12v 42lb thrust 5speed trolling motor on my 16' ProCraft ... and can't keep a constant speed. I can't get 1.8mph crank pushing speed out of it, or maintain those speeds for more than a few hours. Now, pushing jigs at 0.6 - 0.8mph I'm good to go. That was on a series 27 battery, which died after 4yrs ... so I went to a series 29. Haven't tested it "pushing" yet, but the times I have used it ... it seems like it will extend my pushing time by several hours or more. I hope, anyway. Otherwise I'll have to spend a few grand on trolling motor, rewiring for 24v, contour line map card, etc.![]()


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