Thread: Trolling Motor Question

have you spliced wires from foot control to motor and check with a volt meter for good flow of current?

Call Gary hubble H20 sports sherwood ark (501-835-2929) he is located next to bradford marine.

Thanks for the iedeas I will try both.

If you can find a schematic and put it up, someone on here may be able to help. This site has some schematics, but I'm not sure if this is your motor.

MotorGuide Brute Series Motorguide Trolling Motor 9B000001 & Up Wire Diagram(Brute 50-70 Wireless) (12-24V) Diagram and Parts

This one appears to use a motor steering system like a Terrova

Your jumper between batteries may be bad or one of your batteries may have died if the diagrams I have looked at are what you have.

I have a 1995 model 650 Brute. The battery charger shows full charge on both trolling batteries.

You can still have a bad battery with it showing full. Under load it could be breaking down. If you can check it on 12 volts, check each battery one at a time.

Is this a hand steer with an on and off in the foot pedal?

Does this schematic look right?



If so, the problem will more than likely be in what I have highlighted in orange. If I had no test gear, first I would flip flop the batteries. If it quits running on 12 volts you have a bad battery. If it runs ok, you have a wiring or switch problem. I would then give it a visual, especially the strap between the batteries, and the positive on the 24 volt side. I would try to run the motor on 24 volts for a short time then feel of these connections. If they are warm or hot, they need repaired. If all seems normal, I would then reverse the connections on the 12/24 volt switch. According to the schematic, this should be the red wire and the red wire with the white tracer. Leave the center wire going to the on/off switch in place. If it is the switch this will fix the 24volt, but 12 volts will not work. The switch position will show 12 volts when you are actually running 24 volts.

Hope this helps.