Thread: Updating & Upgrading the 184DC Champion

Thank you for letting me know. I like the way it's shaped.

I was looking to get this boat done before I needed to drive to Ross Barnett and plug in the oil heater in our camper but it's looking pretty cold there next week.



First things first a layout was needed, something that channeled water to the drain while not creating a snag that later may need fixing. The plan is to leave a water path where the tape is applied. I'm covering the front drain hole for now and most likely will deck plate over it.



Beginning with a gross size rectangle I laid out a mirror image of what's needed due to working from the backside. To further complicate the job the starboard console base is square but the port console base has 1/2in or run-out to the inside. So I had to reduce the port side 1/2in - 38 inches from the forward most edge. To add icing on the cake so to speak the drain is not even close to being centered. I have to pull a rabbit out of the hat and try to blend all this crooked, off-center features into a straight looking SeaDek application. Since the SeaDek backing is very slick just holding the straight edge is not enough when cutting, masking tape was applied to help steady the ruler.



I trimmed this corner a bit more to blend the two beginnings of the transitions straight looking. The starboard console edge is 3/4's of a inch further aft than the port console edge.



Once the gross cutting was laid down on the deck I could figure out where to trim the corners.



I just freehand a bevel on using a 3in right angle air grinder and a "new" blue scotch-brite surfacer disc.



A starting point must be scribed into the backing paper where you can fold a "starting point" for applying the SeaDek when using whole sheets like I am.



Once the exact location of the SeaDek is figured out you mask the material down to the deck on one end. This is your application guide. Now don't think the SeaDek can't still get a mind of it's own which is good as slight corrections can still be made if needed before fully sticking down. Once it touches the deck - game over that is where it stays.



The first piece is down. The center had to go down first since I'm working off of it to SeaDek under the two consoles.



Using Acetate to make a pattern (always write on it and apply a arrow or label for the front) I reverse the side of the pattern when transferring it to the SeaDek sheet material. Still using the same method to cut the material and bevel to prepare it for application.



I was able to do a little tweaking to the starboard side pattern, make some notes where I needed to allow extra material, etc to make the port console SeaDek piece.



I came out looking pretty straight considering nothing was straight to work to.

Nice! Yes, the cold front will start after with the rain Sunday evening/Monday morning, and the temperature will drop all day on Monday.

just got caught up on the build. awesome work!

Big day getting the installation and adjustment of the Hoot Foot done. The way it is screwed to the deck I will never have to worry about a water leak rotting the deck as the SeaDek makes a permanent gasket.

One thing I saw online about hot foots is always keep a spare return spring. or it will hold it wide open. just and idea wouldn't hurt to have in the storage compartment